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Forum topic by Bandit1538 posted 05-24-2019 04:03 AM 426 views 1 time favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bandit1538

5 posts in 58 days


05-24-2019 04:03 AM

I’m looking for something that will put on a higher gloss than Hut Crystal Coat, it works ok but I like really shinny. I sand to 400 then Yorkshire then Crystal Coat, but I want something that looks like a mirror, any suggestions?

-- If it ain't broke, don't fix it.


14 replies so far

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

8305 posts in 3187 days


#1 posted 05-24-2019 07:16 AM

French Polish.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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Wildwood

2652 posts in 2524 days


#2 posted 05-24-2019 09:56 AM

Both Crystal Coat & Hut wax sticks friction finishes great if want look and feel of natural wood, any sheen you get will fade over time.

Crystal Coat: http://www.hutproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0104

Hut Wax sticks:
http://www.hutproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0103

JMHO, if sanding to 400 grit or higher don’t really need Yorkshire product.
http://yorkshire-grit.com/product-page/

If looking for a mirror finish that is durable will have to move to film forming finishes like CA glue, lacquer, poly, shellac, or varnish.

CA for small items like pen, bottle stopper easy, fast, & durable.

The others mentioned will take more time but durable.

-- Bill

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Bandit1538

5 posts in 58 days


#3 posted 05-25-2019 01:51 AM

I do like Yorkshire but I can’t use it if I want a natural finish as it does stain, I’ve used Danish Oil for a natural finish but I’d like to find a food safe hi gloss for a natural finish, what do you recommend?


Both Crystal Coat & Hut wax sticks friction finishes great if want look and feel of natural wood, any sheen you get will fade over time.

Crystal Coat: http://www.hutproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0104

Hut Wax sticks:
http://www.hutproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0103

JMHO, if sanding to 400 grit or higher don’t really need Yorkshire product.
http://yorkshire-grit.com/product-page/

If looking for a mirror finish that is durable will have to move to film forming finishes like CA glue, lacquer, poly, shellac, or varnish.

CA for small items like pen, bottle stopper easy, fast, & durable.

The others mentioned will take more time but durable.

- Wildwood


-- If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

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Bandit1538

5 posts in 58 days


#4 posted 05-25-2019 01:57 AM

I do like Yorkshire but I can’t use it if I want a natural finish as it does stain, I’ve used Danish Oil for a natural finish but I’d like to find a food safe hi gloss for a natural finish, what do you recommend?
One problem I’ve ran into is with a cellulose sanding sealer is that it clogs up my sand paper, am I trying to sand too soon?


Both Crystal Coat & Hut wax sticks friction finishes great if want look and feel of natural wood, any sheen you get will fade over time.

Crystal Coat: http://www.hutproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0104

Hut Wax sticks:
http://www.hutproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0103

JMHO, if sanding to 400 grit or higher don’t really need Yorkshire product.
http://yorkshire-grit.com/product-page/

If looking for a mirror finish that is durable will have to move to film forming finishes like CA glue, lacquer, poly, shellac, or varnish.

CA for small items like pen, bottle stopper easy, fast, & durable.

The others mentioned will take more time but durable.

- Wildwood


-- If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

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Wildwood

2652 posts in 2524 days


#5 posted 05-25-2019 09:25 AM

Here it comes again I use nothing but mineral oil (laxative) for food safe items or no finish at all. Definitely not from once a film finish has cure its food safe so cannot really help you. This short article really explains why don’t use a film, oil poly/varnish blend or wiping varnish for food safe items.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/08/01/food-safe-finishes

I do use film finishes on majority of the bowls turned but neither sell or give away for purpose of food contact.

Think only options for food safe items is no finish (rolling pins, scoops). While finish outside of salt & pepper shakers inside is left unfinished. I supply folks that buy my mixing & serving bowls with bottle of MO for reapplication as required.

Besides MO, MO /bees or carnuba wax and Walnut oil & bees and or carnuba wax see nothing else to use.

https://bowlmakerinc.com/finishes.html

http://doctorswoodshop.com/Store

Dr.’s Walnut/Carnuba Wax & Shellac pretty much same thing as Crystal Coat so wouldn’t use it for food safe items. Not sure about Dr.’s Microcrsytal Bowl finish too.

https://www.artmolds.com/pdf/MSDS_Microcrystaline_wax.pdf

https://www.britannica.com/science/microcrystalline-wax

Only reason do not use Tung oil or waxes, time, cost and difficulty refinishing for folks.

-- Bill

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bandit571

22960 posts in 3072 days


#6 posted 05-25-2019 02:24 PM

Hmmmm, a second “bandit”?

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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ibewjon

566 posts in 3182 days


#7 posted 05-25-2019 02:40 PM

Shellac is food safe when dry. It is used to coat candy and medicine.

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Andre

2621 posts in 2195 days


#8 posted 05-25-2019 03:19 PM



Shellac is food safe when dry. It is used to coat candy and medicine.

- ibewjon

After all all it is, is Bug Poop!:)

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

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ibewjon

566 posts in 3182 days


#9 posted 05-25-2019 04:08 PM

No, it is not. It is a resinous secretion from the female only, used to protect eggs and young. Not poop from digestion.

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Wildwood

2652 posts in 2524 days


#10 posted 05-25-2019 06:15 PM

If talk with folks wanting you to use green wood finishes, shellac is not on the list due to mixing with denatured alcohol or DNA. That is not same as what coating candy or medicine. While love using shellac, not sure will hold up to wiping down with hot damp towel! Now if you had a still making your own grain alcohol that doesn’t contain government required poison might be different story.

-- Bill

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ibewjon

566 posts in 3182 days


#11 posted 05-25-2019 06:39 PM

The DNA evaporates, and is gone when fully cured. Shellac is not waterproof, and can get spots from water or heat. I am not saying to use shellac on spoons or mixing bowls.

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OSU55

2303 posts in 2379 days


#12 posted 05-25-2019 10:40 PM

The film forming finishes are food safe once cured and will provide hi gloss. Have many film finish bowls in service used to hold food temporarily (no liquids). What are the projects to be finished? If any silverware will come in contact with the surface, you dont want a film finish. It will scratch and look bad quickly. Id use walnut oil (Mahoney’s or Drs Woodshop).

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Bandit1538

5 posts in 58 days


#13 posted 05-26-2019 02:35 AM

What about wipe on Poly by Minwax, have anyone of you used it and what do you think of it?

-- If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

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OSU55

2303 posts in 2379 days


#14 posted 05-26-2019 12:23 PM



What about wipe on Poly by Minwax, have anyone of you used it and what do you think of it?

- Bandit1538

My primary turning finish is regular minwax solvent poly thinned 1:1 with ms to make it a wipe on. Much cheaper to that way. I use semi gloss. Flood it on, keep wet for ~10 min, wipe off, let dry 2-3 hrs, repeat. Now fully sealed and ready for several methods of final coats, sanding, buffing depending on the desired results – from an “oiled” look to a fully filled hi gloss finish. I mix oil based dye into the poly for color.

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