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HP Dust Collector air Leak?

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Forum topic by EthanG posted 05-23-2019 02:50 PM 327 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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EthanG

14 posts in 189 days


05-23-2019 02:50 PM

I just finished a Cyclone Harbor Freight dust collector system. After turning it on, it has plenty of power, but I think there are some air leaks.

There is a lot of air moving around the motor itself. It feels like there is an internal fan within the motor, which is meant to keep it cool?

I’m most concerned about where the motor housing meets the impeller housing. There is a gap there. I failed to recall how those two are mated, when I had it opened up while replacing/upgrading the stock impeller.

Is it possible that there is an air gap there, and that fine dust could be escaping? It’s hard to tell while testing, as the cyclone is taking in 99% of the dust. I was thinking of trying to silicone the two at their mating point, but that would require disassembly of the unit, which was a pain in to mount alone in the first place.

Thoughts?

-- A clean shop is a safe shop.


10 replies so far

View RobHannon's profile

RobHannon

262 posts in 920 days


#1 posted 05-23-2019 03:00 PM

There is a fan on the back end of the motor itself. For piece of mind you could tape off the motor to impeller housing seam.

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EthanG

14 posts in 189 days


#2 posted 05-23-2019 03:02 PM

Yeah, I would like to do that, if necessary, but I don’t want to take this thing apart as soon as I have gotten it together. I can’t get at the seam unless it’s fully disassembled.

-- A clean shop is a safe shop.

View CarlosInTheSticks's profile

CarlosInTheSticks

286 posts in 761 days


#3 posted 05-23-2019 03:19 PM

I don’t think there is any cause for concern there. The area around the shaft entry into the fan housing is under negative press., so if it leaks it is pulling air in not out. You want to leave the shaft free, a tight seal will put extra load on the motor, and generate heat from friction. If you doubt this, remove the fan cover on the motor, loosen the set screw on the fan and remove it. Start the blower you can then feel what is happening with the air at the motor to housing connection without interference from the motor cooling fan. Don’t run it long you will overheat the motor.

View Bob5103's profile

Bob5103

134 posts in 1223 days


#4 posted 05-23-2019 05:27 PM

Mine leaked before I replaced the impeller, and I knew I was going to make it worse when I oriented the blower housing to exhaust outside. So I used silicone between the motor and impeller housing, the cover to the impeller housing was warped and added silicone around the seal. The impeller housing also leaked at the tack welded seam, HVAC tape solved that problem. It has been about 3yrs now and no leaks so far.

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EthanG

14 posts in 189 days


#5 posted 05-23-2019 05:38 PM



Mine leaked before I replaced the impeller, and I knew I was going to make it worse when I oriented the blower housing to exhaust outside. So I used silicone between the motor and impeller housing, the cover to the impeller housing was warped and added silicone around the seal. The impeller housing also leaked at the tack welded seam, HVAC tape solved that problem. It has been about 3yrs now and no leaks so far.

- Bob5103

The tape on the weld is a good tip, thank you. I guess I’m going to try to seal this up somehow, without taking it down. I want to avoid that if possible. I think I’ll get a hole saw and create an access hole on the back panel. That way, I can get my hand in there to spread some silicone.

-- A clean shop is a safe shop.

View HackFabrication's profile

HackFabrication

134 posts in 101 days


#6 posted 05-23-2019 07:32 PM


I think I ll get a hole saw and create an access hole on the back panel. That way, I can get my hand in there to spread some silicone.
- EthanG

And that is easier than just pulling it all apart? And having to deal with sealing another area?

IMHO: Run it like it is. The Utopian world of total dust collection does not exist. You will waste countless hours searching for it, lots of unnecessary money, and end up with total frustration (okay, that’s an exaggeration…).

BTW: Did you go with the Rikon impeller? My build HF Upgrades

-- "In the end, it's all Hack..."

View EthanG's profile

EthanG

14 posts in 189 days


#7 posted 05-24-2019 01:28 PM

I did go with the Rikon. all in all, a powerful unit for the money. If I ever go full 5 inch throughout the shop (I don’t have room to run pipe right now), I’ll go with the 5 inch flange upgrade.

As for the hole saw, that would just be through the plywood mounting plate that the motor is mounted to. I could cut into the center of it, so that I can get my hand in there and spread some silicone. I would be able to keep using the unit as is while doing this, and there would be no down time.

I just got the thing together, and hooked up to my table saw (ran the new saw with no dust collection, and now it’s filthy! Shame!), I don’t want to have to take it apart and waste another couple of nights on it. That motor is heavy, and hard to align in the setup that I have.

-- A clean shop is a safe shop.

View HackFabrication's profile

HackFabrication

134 posts in 101 days


#8 posted 05-25-2019 04:59 AM



As for the hole saw, that would just be through the plywood mounting plate that the motor is mounted to. I could cut into the center of it, so that I can get my hand in there and spread some silicone. I would be able to keep using the unit as is while doing this, and there would be no down time.
- EthanG

Ah… I thought you were going to cut into the impeller housing.

Yeah, the Rikon impeller really woke up my HF DC. I too, will be hard ducting with 5”, using short 4” drops to the machines. Probably going to be a winter project, as summer projects are now the priority.

If you do ever disassemble, I’d go with a full 6” flange (and flex) from the impeller housing to the SDD, to get full benefit of the larger impeller.

-- "In the end, it's all Hack..."

View EthanG's profile

EthanG

14 posts in 189 days


#9 posted 05-31-2019 02:21 PM


If you do ever disassemble, I d go with a full 6” flange (and flex) from the impeller housing to the SDD, to get full benefit of the larger impeller.

- HackFabrication

Is there a commercial flange available, or is this something that is DIY? I have been looking for a reason to buy a rivet gun…

I can find good cause to disassemble if I’m able to modify/improve the DC.

-- A clean shop is a safe shop.

View HackFabrication's profile

HackFabrication

134 posts in 101 days


#10 posted 05-31-2019 07:27 PM



If you do ever disassemble, I d go with a full 6” flange (and flex) from the impeller housing to the SDD, to get full benefit of the larger impeller.
- HackFabrication

Is there a commercial flange available, or is this something that is DIY? I have been looking for a reason to buy a rivet gun…

I can find good cause to disassemble if I m able to modify/improve the DC.
- EthanG


Check out my thread: HF Upgrades

They are great for making custom ‘stuff’. Pricey? Yes. You might do better with a big box sort of fitting. But you pay for quality. Read the problems/solutions in my post. They took care of me.

Mine was an easy upgrade from the OEM HF. And it, with the Rikon 12” (actual 11 7/8”) impeller does a great job!

-- "In the end, it's all Hack..."

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