I've often heard (and practiced) that when building up a polyurethane finish, one should do the build up layers in gloss (higher solid content and less fog from the silica used to dull the gloss to create semi-gloss or satin) and then switch to satin for your last coat (if you want a satin finish).
My question is, does this also apply to NC Lacquer (i.e. Minwax rattle can lacquer)?
I'd never try to argue that multiple coats of gloss isn't clearer than multiple coats of satin. It just doesn't seem realistic that the flatteners won't obscure the view of the wood underneath to some extent.
That said, I don't bother doing the gloss undercoat. I generally spray 4 coats of satin for a standard finish and don't notice any clouding. I use Sherwin Williams CAB Acrylic which is higher in solids than most aerosols, so I get a good build without too many coats.
Matt I use both Minwax and Deft rattle can lacquer on most of my smaller projects. If I need satin I use satin for all coats. Likewise if I need gloss, that gets used for all coats. Usually 3 to 4 coats depending on what wood and if it is raw or has been stained or has a coat of Danish oil. All great results as long as you keep shaking the can occasionally.
I have done a 1/2 dozen or more comparison tests over the years of all satin coats vs gloss then satin, with poly and lacquer, and I see no difference. Tests included rubbing out satin vs gloss. Its possible that with a magnifying glass and raking light held just right there is a difference, but is that inspection realistic?
My opinion is the silica flattener becomes invisible when inside the film and then the satin finish creates some cloudiness to look through which obscures any hint of cloudiness in the film. I like satin or semi gloss, even for a gloss finish, so that negative grain or defects dont have as hi of sheen. They dont stand out.
My opinion is the silica flattener becomes invisible when inside the film and then the satin finish creates some cloudiness to look through which obscures any hint of cloudiness in the film.
Yes, I think the effect might be similar to a thin frosted piece of glass or plastic that, when you lay down flat on a surface, is clear enough to read through.
I have done a 1/2 dozen or more comparison tests over the years of all satin coats vs gloss then satin, with poly and lacquer, and I see no difference. Tests included rubbing out satin vs gloss. Its possible that with a magnifying glass and raking light held just right there is a difference, but is that inspection realistic?
My opinion is the silica flattener becomes invisible when inside the film and then the satin finish creates some cloudiness to look through which obscures any hint of cloudiness in the film. I like satin or semi gloss, even for a gloss finish, so that negative grain or defects dont have as hi of sheen. They dont stand out.
I thought the reasoning behind it was to lessen the chance of streaking from not stirring the flattening agents. If you don't mix well, then 3 coats you are 3 times more likely to have streaking than only using satin on final coat. But if you stir well and keep stirring regularly then you won't have the issue anyways. At least that's how I understood the concept.
Well, I'll go against the grain here. I always sppray my base coats in gloss, then the last coat in satin. I did that when I was using solvent lacquers and I still do it with WB.
Interesting! I just use the sheen finish that I want all the way through, as the manufactures intend it to be used.
Directions are there for a reason, but if you feel like playing games with it, so be it.
Well, I guess that depends on the manufacturer. Jeff Weiss from Target Coatings recommends building the base with gloss then topping with the final sheen of choice.
I never use gloss if my intended sheen is satin. There's just no need.
Interestingly I find that too many coats of satin lacquer (say 4 coats) will start to look too glossy.
Either way, the lacquer coating stays clear and clean looking.
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