Farm house table glue up

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Forum topic by Patrickgeddes14 posted 04-28-2019 04:51 PM 245 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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143 posts in 209 days

04-28-2019 04:51 PM

5 replies so far

View Aj2's profile


2280 posts in 2192 days

#1 posted 04-28-2019 05:29 PM

I watched the video. And for me and my standards i wouldn’t try to glue up boards in that condition.
I pretty sure you will have a uneven top with thick glue lines.
The answer to to mill the lumber or joint edges square to the bottom.
A lot more clamps.

If it’s supposed to be a very rustic table then your probably going to be all right.
I do like the boards they look nice.
Good Luck

-- Aj

View Cold_Pizza's profile


22 posts in 145 days

#2 posted 04-28-2019 06:35 PM

use a shit ton of clamping pressure. I’d get rid of the unistrut and just reference the show face off a flat surface, biscuits can have a lot of slop. I usually go back and cut it a hair higher or lower to get a better alignment and to minimize sanding.

Best of luck to you

View Jared_S's profile


196 posts in 353 days

#3 posted 04-28-2019 07:19 PM

Run them through the planer, and just cut the bottom face to get them the same thickness. Joint the edges and clamp with curved cauls top and bottom.

Skip the biscuits

View ArtMann's profile


1385 posts in 1210 days

#4 posted 04-28-2019 09:16 PM

Perhaps I am wrong but the individual pieces don’t appear to have been machined flat and the edges machined straight and perpendicular. If that is true then that would be my first step. It is quite true that perfect alignment will minimize the amount of sanding you will have to do and biscuits will help a little. I use dowels for such applications and reference the hole location offset from the top surface of the table rather than using a self centering jig to put all the irregularity on the bottom side. I use a Dowelmax but Jessem and a few other companies also build good doweling jigs. In the absence of any other alignment mechanism, the unistrut looks pretty good to me.

Where I live, there is a company that sells premium hardwood and also does millwork for the public. They have a very big wide belt sander and people pay them to rough sand to uniform thickness and smoothness. A friend of mine got them to sand down a section of bowling alley to be used as a workbench top. It would make life very easy if you could locate a company to do that for you. He paid $50 IIRC and it was well worth it.

View Jordan123's profile


55 posts in 496 days

#5 posted 05-13-2019 04:54 PM

joint the bottom of all of your boards, to get a perfectly flat reference for the bottom, and edge joint one side. As for the rough face that you want to keep as “rough” as possible you kind of have two options. You can either run each board through the planer a few times just taking off 1/64 or 1/32 each time just to sit the high spots, or you can glue them up in sections as wide as your planer can handle and run the sections through with them same method. Gluing in section will help you alot also to only have to focus on one or two seams at a time.

If you have access to a huge drum sander you can face joint the bottom and then just glue it up and run it through the drum saner a few times to hit the high spots.

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