Forum topic by Patrickgeddes14 | posted 04-28-2019 12:56 PM | 739 views | 0 times favorited | 7 replies | ![]() |
![]() |
04-28-2019 12:56 PM |
Gluing up the boards today… Nominal 2×6s. I’m a little uncertain on how my finishing process should go to get the best results. It’s a dining table for my cousin. Right now my plan is to sand really lightly with 220, so it cleans up any large fibers (sawmill makes for some big ones). Then I’ll have a pretty flat surface that still has some roughsawn texture and look left. Then I want to pre stain conditioner it, then stain with weathered teak (dark), then I was thinking I’d finish it with 2 light coats of no gloss oil urethane. I don’t want to do anymore coats than that because I’d probably have to jack the price up a little more. Advice, suggestions, or nods of approval all appreciated |
7 replies so far
#1 posted 04-28-2019 01:03 PM |
As always test your finishing schedule on some scraps before committing to the larger project, only you can decide if you like the results. -- Bondo Gaposis |
#2 posted 04-28-2019 03:11 PM |
I did a farm table with a construction lumber top a few years ago (see projects). I did a thin coat of shellac followed by two coats of gel stain and then 6 coats of arm-r-seal. It’s held up fairly well. -- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany — Instagram @grailwoodworks |
#3 posted 04-28-2019 07:42 PM |
I personally hate staining pine, but.. when i have to i use a toner and skip the stain. Trans-tint in shellac is a cheap easy toner, mix it light and spray light until you get the color you want. |
#4 posted 04-28-2019 09:03 PM |
Pine often gets the ugly stepsister treatment, but that’s wrong. Appreciate it for what it is. Non-stained pine ages well and continues to get a nice patina. I stopped staining pine decades ago. Staining pine 99% of the time looks like crap. Try a garnet or ruby shellac from flakes, 1 lb cut, several coats. Brown paper-bag gentle rub between coats. After your final shellac coat, another gentle paper bag rub. Then a nice satin (not cheap looking glossy) topcoat, let cure, and a nice paste wax over the top. That’s what I would do. -- "A dying people tolerates the present, rejects the future, and finds its satisfactions in past greatness and half remembered glory" - John Steinbeck |
#5 posted 04-29-2019 12:40 PM |
I did a farm table with a construction lumber top a few years ago (see projects). J.A. ~ do you remember how you finished the underside of that table ? very nicely done. . . -- I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things. -- |
#6 posted 04-29-2019 03:45 PM |
Thanks John – -- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany — Instagram @grailwoodworks |
#7 posted 04-29-2019 05:53 PM |
I’m thinking about finishing a walnut kitchen island with a sink in it. I read up on Rubio Monocoat that you can get with a stain of your choice in it. It looks like it would hold up good to moisture and last. It’s a little expensive but I ordered a sample to try on a piece of walnut to see how it looks. I won’t have any stain in mine and will keep the color natural. I was thinking a stain in your project might look nice. Good luck with your project and enjoy. -- John, Michigan |
Have your say...
You must be signed in to reply.
|
Forum | Topics |
---|---|
Woodworking Skill Share
|
13540 |
Woodturning
|
3006 |
Woodcarving
|
617 |
Scrollsawing
|
436 |
Joinery
|
2072 |
Finishing
|
6704 |
Designing Woodworking Projects
|
8185 |
Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories
|
34167 |
CNC Woodworking
|
383 |
Hand Tools
|
6766 |
Jigs & Fixtures
|
1919 |
Wood & Lumber
|
7611 |
Safety in the Woodworking Shop
|
1695 |
Focus on the Workspace
|
2747 |
Sweating for Bucks Through Woodworking
|
1295 |
Woodworking Trade & Swap
|
5574 |
LumberJocks.com Site Feedback
|
2431 |
Coffee Lounge
|
9897 |