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Is this fence adjustable, vintage King Canada KC-10RC

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Forum topic by r042wal posted 04-27-2019 02:57 PM 2250 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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r042wal

4 posts in 749 days


04-27-2019 02:57 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

I am nearly finished refurbishing an old King contractors saw. I have removed all the rust, replaced the arbour bearings and the bearings in the motor. I have adjusted the trunions and have the saw set up almost perfectly. What I have noticed is the back of the fence is out by about 1/16” – 1/32” when measured against the same blade tooth. If anyone recognizes this fence, could you tell me if it is adjustable? Thanks in advance.


14 replies so far

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jerryminer

961 posts in 2526 days


#1 posted 04-27-2019 03:20 PM

My old Delta Contractor’s saw had a similar fence. IIRC the two bolts on the top of the fence (nearest the operator) can be loosened, allowing the fence to be adjusted, then re-tightened.

On my saw, I abandoned the stock fence a long time ago and upgraded to an after-market fence.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

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r042wal

4 posts in 749 days


#2 posted 04-27-2019 03:24 PM

Thanks Jerry. What kind of fence did you go for?

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jerryminer

961 posts in 2526 days


#3 posted 04-27-2019 03:40 PM

Here’s a page from the Delta (34-444) manual, addressing the adjustment: Note steps 3 4 and 5

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

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jerryminer

961 posts in 2526 days


#4 posted 04-27-2019 03:48 PM



Thanks Jerry. What kind of fence did you go for?

- r042wal

I’m a Biesemeyer fan, but on my home saw I used a Sommerville Design fence (no longeravailable, AFAIK)

Almost any of the after-market fences would be an improvement over the stock fence, IMHO

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

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Kazooman

1540 posts in 3036 days


#5 posted 04-27-2019 03:51 PM

I had one of those Delta contractor saws. The fence is the type that has a hook that locks down the rear of the fence. I went through all of the adjustments but would still occasionally have a problem with the rear of the fence being toed in a small amount toward the blade. I discovered that the direction I was moving the fence just before locking the lever down made a slight difference. Using the hand wheel and moving the fence left to right towards the blade would result in it being perfectly aligned. If I was moving the fence away from the blade it seemed that the back must have been trailing a bit and it would be toed in when locked down. I never found any adjustment that would eliminate the issue so I just learned how to live with it.

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Kazooman

1540 posts in 3036 days


#6 posted 04-27-2019 06:22 PM

Doh…. I meant to say moving the fence from right to left (towards the blade) was what worked for me. I switched the direction in my original post.

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r042wal

4 posts in 749 days


#7 posted 04-27-2019 09:28 PM



I had one of those Delta contractor saws. The fence is the type that has a hook that locks down the rear of the fence. I went through all of the adjustments but would still occasionally have a problem with the rear of the fence being toed in a small amount toward the blade. I discovered that the direction I was moving the fence just before locking the lever down made a slight difference. Using the hand wheel and moving the fence left to right towards the blade would result in it being perfectly aligned. If I was moving the fence away from the blade it seemed that the back must have been trailing a bit and it would be toed in when locked down. I never found any adjustment that would eliminate the issue so I just learned how to live with it.

- Kazooman

I will have to try that Kazooman. I was also thinking of strapping a piece of 4” wide hardwood to the fence and shimming out the back 1/32”. any thoughts on that?

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runswithscissors

3130 posts in 3109 days


#8 posted 04-27-2019 10:59 PM

I had that fence also, on a Rockwell contractor’s saw. I think the finger at the far end is the worst design for a fence I can imagine. Doesn’t matter how much you tighten it down, it still will move if bumped. My first replacement was a T square that I made. Similar in principal to the Biesemeyer, plus several other brands—but pretty ugly. Grizzly has at least 2 models, I believe.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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r042wal

4 posts in 749 days


#9 posted 04-28-2019 12:36 PM

Does anyone have an opinion on the Vega Pro fence systems?

Thanks

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Kazooman

1540 posts in 3036 days


#10 posted 04-28-2019 01:20 PM


I had one of those Delta contractor saws. The fence is the type that has a hook that locks down the rear of the fence. I went through all of the adjustments but would still occasionally have a problem with the rear of the fence being toed in a small amount toward the blade. I discovered that the direction I was moving the fence just before locking the lever down made a slight difference. Using the hand wheel and moving the fence left to right towards the blade would result in it being perfectly aligned. If I was moving the fence away from the blade it seemed that the back must have been trailing a bit and it would be toed in when locked down. I never found any adjustment that would eliminate the issue so I just learned how to live with it.

- Kazooman

I will have to try that Kazooman. I was also thinking of strapping a piece of 4” wide hardwood to the fence and shimming out the back 1/32”. any thoughts on that?

- r042wal

What you need to do is see if the alignment is the same when you last move the fence in either direction before tightening it down. Mine was not. Right on square if I moved right to left, but off a bit (rear toed in towards the blade) if I moved it left to right. Shimming would not correct that. Like Runswithscissors said, it is a crappy design. The hook on the rear end makes up for the fact that the front clamping is insufficient to hold the fence in place.

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Mentoya

11 posts in 1371 days


#11 posted 04-14-2021 06:03 PM

I just bought this same saw. I have an Excalibur Fence. If yours is similar then the screws and allen keys work together for alignment.Loosen the screws under the assembly at the rail adjust with the allen keys left or right and retighten the nut to maintain the setting.

How did you find the blade alignment? I’ve been trying to get the blade parallel to the T-track but with the box that has been built around the motor I haven’t been successful…yet.

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therealSteveN

7694 posts in 1658 days


#12 posted 04-14-2021 08:16 PM



Does anyone have an opinion on the Vega Pro fence systems?

Thanks

- r042wal

I have had a Vega pro on my most used TS since around 1978??? Somewhere around there. I was such a big fan that for several years I sold them as a dealer. Like a lot of woodworking products a lot is how well you can use the piece you have, and I feel the Vega’s cannot be bested.

They come with a very positive lockdown, and a micro adjuster that really works, so no more tap tap tapping your fence.

They have a couple of safety devices that are unfortunately getting harder to source, but going direct to Vega has always worked well for not just me, but others I’ve referred to them.

The top deck of the fence has a rolled edge (it’s rolled inward) and it creates a small gap at each side onto which can slide a pusher stick that is sturdily mounted to the fence, and has a 1/8” blade that acts as a push stick, with anti kickback action. They also have what they call a stock.

There is also a wheeled hold down that works a lot like Board Buddies, or the new Jessem roller hold downs. It’s a single wheel, really easily adjustable for different thicknesses of stock, has an anti kickback feature, and also mounts from above. On that I need to take a pic, didn’t find one online. Check back for that.

-- Think safe, be safe

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therealSteveN

7694 posts in 1658 days


#13 posted 04-14-2021 08:21 PM

A better pic of the Vega fences groove where the accessories mount. It’s simple, secure, and safe.

-- Think safe, be safe

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

7694 posts in 1658 days


#14 posted 04-16-2021 12:27 AM

Took a few pics of the stock hold down.

Just a wide shot showing it all.

I used it today to cut slots for some drawer bottoms. I like it for any “non through” cuts as they have a tendency to lift up, unless you have a stock feeder, and if they lift you don’t get consistent depth, and might get a faceful of wood. The way most folks calm the board down is putting their fingers on it, right over the blade. I prefer to use sacrificial items so my finger modeling career isn’t “cut short” :-)

Note the consistent depth of the cut.

-- Think safe, be safe

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