I am nearly finished refurbishing an old King contractors saw. I have removed all the rust, replaced the arbour bearings and the bearings in the motor. I have adjusted the trunions and have the saw set up almost perfectly. What I have noticed is the back of the fence is out by about 1/16" - 1/32" when measured against the same blade tooth. If anyone recognizes this fence, could you tell me if it is adjustable? Thanks in advance.
My old Delta Contractor's saw had a similar fence. IIRC the two bolts on the top of the fence (nearest the operator) can be loosened, allowing the fence to be adjusted, then re-tightened.
On my saw, I abandoned the stock fence a long time ago and upgraded to an after-market fence.
I had one of those Delta contractor saws. The fence is the type that has a hook that locks down the rear of the fence. I went through all of the adjustments but would still occasionally have a problem with the rear of the fence being toed in a small amount toward the blade. I discovered that the direction I was moving the fence just before locking the lever down made a slight difference. Using the hand wheel and moving the fence left to right towards the blade would result in it being perfectly aligned. If I was moving the fence away from the blade it seemed that the back must have been trailing a bit and it would be toed in when locked down. I never found any adjustment that would eliminate the issue so I just learned how to live with it.
I had one of those Delta contractor saws. The fence is the type that has a hook that locks down the rear of the fence. I went through all of the adjustments but would still occasionally have a problem with the rear of the fence being toed in a small amount toward the blade. I discovered that the direction I was moving the fence just before locking the lever down made a slight difference. Using the hand wheel and moving the fence left to right towards the blade would result in it being perfectly aligned. If I was moving the fence away from the blade it seemed that the back must have been trailing a bit and it would be toed in when locked down. I never found any adjustment that would eliminate the issue so I just learned how to live with it.
I will have to try that Kazooman. I was also thinking of strapping a piece of 4" wide hardwood to the fence and shimming out the back 1/32". any thoughts on that?
I had that fence also, on a Rockwell contractor's saw. I think the finger at the far end is the worst design for a fence I can imagine. Doesn't matter how much you tighten it down, it still will move if bumped. My first replacement was a T square that I made. Similar in principal to the Biesemeyer, plus several other brands-but pretty ugly. Grizzly has at least 2 models, I believe.
I had one of those Delta contractor saws. The fence is the type that has a hook that locks down the rear of the fence. I went through all of the adjustments but would still occasionally have a problem with the rear of the fence being toed in a small amount toward the blade. I discovered that the direction I was moving the fence just before locking the lever down made a slight difference. Using the hand wheel and moving the fence left to right towards the blade would result in it being perfectly aligned. If I was moving the fence away from the blade it seemed that the back must have been trailing a bit and it would be toed in when locked down. I never found any adjustment that would eliminate the issue so I just learned how to live with it.
- Kazooman
I will have to try that Kazooman. I was also thinking of strapping a piece of 4" wide hardwood to the fence and shimming out the back 1/32". any thoughts on that?
What you need to do is see if the alignment is the same when you last move the fence in either direction before tightening it down. Mine was not. Right on square if I moved right to left, but off a bit (rear toed in towards the blade) if I moved it left to right. Shimming would not correct that. Like Runswithscissors said, it is a crappy design. The hook on the rear end makes up for the fact that the front clamping is insufficient to hold the fence in place.
I just bought this same saw. I have an Excalibur Fence. If yours is similar then the screws and allen keys work together for alignment.Loosen the screws under the assembly at the rail adjust with the allen keys left or right and retighten the nut to maintain the setting.
How did you find the blade alignment? I've been trying to get the blade parallel to the T-track but with the box that has been built around the motor I haven't been successful…yet.
How did you find the blade alignment? I've been trying to get the blade parallel to the T-track but with the box that has been built around the motor I haven't been successful…yet.
I have had a Vega pro on my most used TS since around 1978??? Somewhere around there. I was such a big fan that for several years I sold them as a dealer. Like a lot of woodworking products a lot is how well you can use the piece you have, and I feel the Vega's cannot be bested.
They come with a very positive lockdown, and a micro adjuster that really works, so no more tap tap tapping your fence.
They have a couple of safety devices that are unfortunately getting harder to source, but going direct to Vega has always worked well for not just me, but others I've referred to them.
The top deck of the fence has a rolled edge (it's rolled inward) and it creates a small gap at each side onto which can slide a pusher stick that is sturdily mounted to the fence, and has a 1/8" blade that acts as a push stick, with anti kickback action. They also have what they call a stock.
There is also a wheeled hold down that works a lot like Board Buddies, or the new Jessem roller hold downs. It's a single wheel, really easily adjustable for different thicknesses of stock, has an anti kickback feature, and also mounts from above. On that I need to take a pic, didn't find one online. Check back for that.
I used it today to cut slots for some drawer bottoms. I like it for any "non through" cuts as they have a tendency to lift up, unless you have a stock feeder, and if they lift you don't get consistent depth, and might get a faceful of wood. The way most folks calm the board down is putting their fingers on it, right over the blade. I prefer to use sacrificial items so my finger modeling career isn't "cut short"
I have this same saw. I'm struggling with getting the blade aligned. I've figured out that the blade/motor are mounted to the underside of the table, so the typical method of alignment (loosen bolts and knock a corner) doesn't work because the blade is mounted to the table. I've loosened the bolts holding the saw to the underside of the table, but can't get it to move enough. It's a out 1/8" off alignment. Is there another way to make these adjustments? Thanks!
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
LumberJocks Woodworking Forum
2.5M posts
96K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to professional woodworkers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about shop safety, wood, carpentry, lumber, finishing, tools, machinery, woodworking related topics, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!