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jointing jig and gaps between boards

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Forum topic by jdhillon1992 posted 04-24-2019 11:14 PM 543 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jdhillon1992

2 posts in 25 days


04-24-2019 11:14 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jointing wood pine

Hello there!

I made a jointing jig for my table saw and I’m pretty sure the edge i’m using it straight. However, when I look at the results, there’s still tiny gaps and lines when joining the boards. I’ve attached a few images but could it be my table saw -saw or jig?

i’f I squeeze the boards together, the line almost disappears but there’re still tiny gaps.

What do you think?


19 replies so far

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SMP

821 posts in 263 days


#1 posted 04-25-2019 12:10 AM

What kind of blade?

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jdhillon1992

2 posts in 25 days


#2 posted 04-25-2019 12:29 AM

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iopturbo

1 post in 25 days


#3 posted 04-25-2019 01:26 AM

I’m new to the forum but I’m sure the blade that saw ships with isn’t high quality. Invest in a decent blade and see what happens.

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SMP

821 posts in 263 days


#4 posted 04-25-2019 01:31 AM



I m new to the forum but I m sure the blade that saw ships with isn t high quality. Invest in a decent blade and see what happens.

- iopturbo

Thats why i asked. I agree, stock blades are usually pretty bad. But great for “construction” type of projects, save it for rougher work. You would likely get much better results with a Freud Industrial glue line type blade or similar/better quality blade.
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Industrial-Ripping-Blade-LM74R010/dp/B00006XMTV

Even the $30 freud diablo that home depot sells is likely better than the stock blade. Then again this is assuming your saw is “tuned” and the fence is parallel to the blade etc.

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MikeDilday

248 posts in 816 days


#5 posted 04-25-2019 02:06 AM

Are you clamping the boards when doing the glue-up?

-- Michael Dilday, Suffolk, Va.

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WoodenDreams

577 posts in 268 days


#6 posted 04-25-2019 08:45 AM

is the blade 90 degrees to the table. you may need to flip flop one board so the cutting ripped edge match the degree of cut.

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Cold_Pizza

18 posts in 109 days


#7 posted 04-25-2019 10:01 AM

joint the first edge with the show face up then joint the next with the show face down. That will negate the slight angle

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Robert

3367 posts in 1838 days


#8 posted 04-25-2019 01:33 PM

What Cold Pizza ^ said. I do this even using a jointer.

But I think you’re issue is trying to use a machine not intended for that use. Just the slightest difference in feed pressure or runout in the machine will do it.

Personally I use a jointer plane to dial in when necessary.

That said, the gap in that pick will probably clamp out.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Aj2

2191 posts in 2155 days


#9 posted 04-25-2019 01:38 PM

I agree flip the boards. We’ve had this topic before a tablesaw cannot make a jointed edge.

I was taught a jointed edge is a flat face square to one edge this is easily made with a accurate jointer.

-- Aj

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Woodknack

12770 posts in 2738 days


#10 posted 04-25-2019 09:04 PM

Because of the mismatched grain, the glue joint will stick out like a sore thumb even if you get a perfect jointed edge. Can you orient the boards differently for a better appearance?

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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MikeDilday

248 posts in 816 days


#11 posted 04-26-2019 01:09 AM

I will say that I have jointed and joined many furniture tops and panels with just a table saw and a Dewalt 12” planer and they turned out great. I would say that there is a slight chance that the knot and spiraled out cross grain on that bottom board may be contributing to your problem. Wood will shrink across the grain as it dries, knots will not shrink. There is almost no shrinkage with the grain. If a board has knots and irregular grain like your bottom board it will become internally stressed as the temperature and humidity change. We see this sometimes when we rip a board and get binding on the blade and see the cut come back together on the other side of the blade. This may be your issue. I can assure you with the right board and a decent sled you can get joinable edges on a table saw and make some nice furniture with it.

For my sled, before I got the Jet 12” Jointer/Planer combo, I took a 6’ pine board and put dovetail slots across it’s entire width about every 12 inches. Then I took a few of the Micro Jig DVC-538K2 MATCHFIT Dovetail Clamps and clamped my work to the board overhanding the edge. Using the rip fence on the table saw I got a straight, clean edge on one side. Works great.

-- Michael Dilday, Suffolk, Va.

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Aj2

2191 posts in 2155 days


#12 posted 04-26-2019 01:48 AM

Every time some says they use their table saw as jointer it’s with a fixture. To rip a straight edge and hopefully square along it length. And if it doesn’t go right you get what the jdhillion gets.
I think it’s a bad practice to teach this to any new woodworker.

-- Aj

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MikeDilday

248 posts in 816 days


#13 posted 04-26-2019 01:49 AM



Every time some says they use their table saw as jointer it’s with a fixture. To rip a straight edge and hopefully square along it length. And if it doesn’t go right you get what the jdhillion gets.
I think it’s a bad practice to teach this to any new woodworker.

- Aj2


Sometimes you have to make do with the tools you have.

-- Michael Dilday, Suffolk, Va.

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LeeRoyMan

80 posts in 84 days


#14 posted 04-26-2019 02:19 AM

It’s probably leaving the gaps when you are pushing the material through and stop to move your hands. The blade and/or material relaxes and more than likely the back of the blade is making the gaps.
You don’t say how long the board is, but try to make a cut all the way through without stopping and see if you get the same result.

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Aj2

2191 posts in 2155 days


#15 posted 04-26-2019 02:25 AM

Sometimes you have to make do with the tools you have.

- MikeDilday

And sometimes we make doo doo with the tools we have. :)

-- Aj

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