I made a jointing jig for my table saw and I'm pretty sure the edge i'm using it straight. However, when I look at the results, there's still tiny gaps and lines when joining the boards. I've attached a few images but could it be my table saw -saw or jig?
i'f I squeeze the boards together, the line almost disappears but there're still tiny gaps.
Thats why i asked. I agree, stock blades are usually pretty bad. But great for "construction" type of projects, save it for rougher work. You would likely get much better results with a Freud Industrial glue line type blade or similar/better quality blade. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Industrial-Ripping-Blade-LM74R010/dp/B00006XMTV
Even the $30 freud diablo that home depot sells is likely better than the stock blade. Then again this is assuming your saw is "tuned" and the fence is parallel to the blade etc.
What Cold Pizza ^ said. I do this even using a jointer.
But I think you're issue is trying to use a machine not intended for that use. Just the slightest difference in feed pressure or runout in the machine will do it.
Personally I use a jointer plane to dial in when necessary.
That said, the gap in that pick will probably clamp out.
Because of the mismatched grain, the glue joint will stick out like a sore thumb even if you get a perfect jointed edge. Can you orient the boards differently for a better appearance?
I will say that I have jointed and joined many furniture tops and panels with just a table saw and a Dewalt 12" planer and they turned out great. I would say that there is a slight chance that the knot and spiraled out cross grain on that bottom board may be contributing to your problem. Wood will shrink across the grain as it dries, knots will not shrink. There is almost no shrinkage with the grain. If a board has knots and irregular grain like your bottom board it will become internally stressed as the temperature and humidity change. We see this sometimes when we rip a board and get binding on the blade and see the cut come back together on the other side of the blade. This may be your issue. I can assure you with the right board and a decent sled you can get joinable edges on a table saw and make some nice furniture with it.
For my sled, before I got the Jet 12" Jointer/Planer combo, I took a 6' pine board and put dovetail slots across it's entire width about every 12 inches. Then I took a few of the Micro Jig DVC-538K2 MATCHFIT Dovetail Clamps and clamped my work to the board overhanding the edge. Using the rip fence on the table saw I got a straight, clean edge on one side. Works great.
Every time some says they use their table saw as jointer it's with a fixture. To rip a straight edge and hopefully square along it length. And if it doesn't go right you get what the jdhillion gets.
I think it's a bad practice to teach this to any new woodworker.
Every time some says they use their table saw as jointer it's with a fixture. To rip a straight edge and hopefully square along it length. And if it doesn't go right you get what the jdhillion gets.
I think it's a bad practice to teach this to any new woodworker.
It's probably leaving the gaps when you are pushing the material through and stop to move your hands. The blade and/or material relaxes and more than likely the back of the blade is making the gaps.
You don't say how long the board is, but try to make a cut all the way through without stopping and see if you get the same result.
Bingo, and I never was taught a TS could joint wood accurately. However since I was a boy a lot has obviously changed. I think mostly by folks who don't want to buy a jointer. I have no idea how they prep stock which isn't already fully prepped, without also using the jointer to face joint one face, and edge joint one edge, against a true 90* Of course this assumes the jointer is squared away. Basic WWing 101.
I was taught a jointed edge is a flat face square to one edge this is easily made with a accurate jointer.
- Aj2
Bingo, and I never was taught a TS could joint wood accurately. However since I was a boy a lot has obviously changed. I think mostly by folks who don t want to buy a jointer. I have no idea how they prep stock which isn t already fully prepped, without also using the jointer to face joint one face, and edge joint one edge, against a true 90* Of course this assumes the jointer is squared away. Basic WWing 101.
I just went through this issue in a cabinet I'm building of cedar (lots of knots).
A knot area on an edge usually ends up protruding. The narrower the board is and softer the wood, the more its an issue.
I recommend gluing up right away and keep the knots toward the interior of the panel.
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