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Forum topic by Jack Lewis posted 04-23-2019 08:51 PM 245 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jack Lewis

436 posts in 1437 days


04-23-2019 08:51 PM

Topic tags/keywords: sharpening gouges wolverine

1/2” bowl gouge, CBN wheel, Wolverine Jig, block w/ hole to set gouge distance, very light pressure on wheel. Nothing is moved or changed between sharpening. Something causes a slightly different bevel from the existing one the heel of the grind. It is removed with a couple of extra passes on the wheel. This occurs on one side mostly but occasionally both sides of the bevel. It requires those extra passes to finish the touch up I am trying to do and I am sure it is eating the gouge eventually.
Any ideas or should I not worry about it?

-- "PLUMBER'S BUTT! Get over it, everybody has one"


4 replies so far

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

5635 posts in 4021 days


#1 posted 04-24-2019 12:18 AM

How do you set the distance from the wheel to the V? I use the Raptor setup tools (from Craft Supplies), but you could get by with a scrap of 1/4” plywood 4” by whatever the distance needs to be for your grind.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View TravisH's profile

TravisH

658 posts in 2293 days


#2 posted 04-24-2019 12:31 AM

I think it is just a product of the jig. It is easy not to follow the same sweep/roll motion with the width of the pivot point. At times you are rotating along the right edge and other times the left edge. The pivot point is 3/16 inch stamped piece of metal.

Take a look and if your jig looks like mine you see wear along the right edge and along the left edge and the center shows no to little wear. Essentially just with a slight shift during the roll you can change the pivot point origin. I imagine if the jig was designed with a ball for a pivot point or smaller point would reduce the issue. I might ease the edge a little and see if that helps. Ideally the pivot point would sit dead center of the V base and not move from that location during the process.

Overall don’t find it a big deal and do as you described make a few extra passes.

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2621 posts in 2493 days


#3 posted 04-25-2019 11:18 AM

Many turners have modified the swing arm on their vari-grind jig for same reason you mention and for others cannot remember. Think Lyle found a simpler solution still using the v-arm of the wolverine jig. Will it help you don’t know, might worth little time watching the video.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=141720&Category_Code=sharp-trugrin

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zUph9zEjck

-- Bill

View Jack Lewis's profile

Jack Lewis

436 posts in 1437 days


#4 posted 04-25-2019 02:39 PM



Many turners have modified the swing arm on their vari-grind jig for same reason you mention and for others cannot remember. Think Lyle found a simpler solution still using the v-arm of the wolverine jig. Will it help you don t know, might worth little time watching the video.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=141720&Category_Code=sharp-trugrin

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zUph9zEjck

- Wildwood


Thanks for that info. Further note: This occurs occasionally without ANY change to ALL the set-up conditions. The variance of new bevel to old is about 25% of the bevel face, very slight and always on the heel. Hence the cutting edge requires a second or third pass to finish the edge.

-- "PLUMBER'S BUTT! Get over it, everybody has one"

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