I was trying to route a 1/4" dado parallel to the edge of a piece of stock. I was using my relatively new Triton router in a router table. I was using the 1/4" chuck and a 1/4" shank straight router bit. I was pushing the stock along the router table fence. The dados were curved! I kept trying in scrap (3/4 inch HD plywood) only cutting in about 3/16 inch. I would fit the stock against the fence and hold it there while routing. If I went very slowly, the off-square dados were better, but still not completely parallel to the stock's edge.
First a bit of geometry. I assume, since the bit is round, there is no concern about the fence being "square" to anything. No matter what the angle the fence is on, the cut ought to be parallel to the edge against the fence?
It seems to me I read somewhere that the 1/4 inch chuck on Triton routers was unreliable to stay put. Any thoughts about this?
I know the fence is not moving and that the stock is consistently tight against it. So what? The router must be moving slightly?
I've got this setup in my shop. I've used 1/4" bits but only for upcut ones. It would seem that it shouldn't be fine even though it's not 1/2". Don't know what's happening but if things are set up right no reason why it shouldn't be fine.
The only thing I have to add. I have found that 1/4 bits go south pretty fast. Maybe the plywood test cuts were not the best idea. Mfd is even harder on router bits.
Good luck
How large is the opening in the fence around the bit? If it is large and your stock is fairly thin you might be getting some bending. And how large is the wood you are trying to dado? I have a Triton and haven't had any issues with it like that even with a 1/4" bit although I use spiral cut bits as they just give a better cut than straight bits.
Also, when you say the dado is curved; by how much and in which direction. Pictures might help diagnose the issue.
I write here to bring closure to this topic as I believe I found the problem.
A day or two after this posting I thought to "jiggle" the router in the router table. I found out the plate to which the router was mounted was not firmly fixed to the touter table top, so some deflection was happening.
I am using the Infinity router plate, which is a nice sturdy one. There are adjustable disks on top of the plate that one may use an allen wrench to tighten. The idea is that these take up any "slack" and make the router plate fit tightly in the table top. They didn't work all that well. There were supplied with the plate machine screws to attach the plate to the table top. I drilled clearance holes in the table top and attached two of the four screws. The router was now most firmly fixed to the table top with NO PLAY at all. The new cuts were just fine.
Good you figured it out. I was reading along, and planned to ask if you were able to use the same router, and bit handheld with an edge guide? If you were able to do that, and get a straight cut, then it wasn't the router, or bit. If so I was going to suggest checking A to Z on your router table, and every portion of the set up.
Many times I see questions applied to router tables, and I wonder if handheld with the same equipment if the same problem existed. Most of the time it is very easy to check. If it doesn't then look at the router table, lift, plate, insert and check for goofy.
I'm not sure about the Triton and being loose comes from? Any router can be loose if improperly operated/set up. I think also the Triton draws the ire of the I paid XYZ $$$$$$ for my router lift, and double what you paid for your Triton for my PC router group. So therefore your Triton is junk, and I'm going to type bad things about it. I have both the big 3+ HP, and smaller 2+ HP Triton routers, and have a lot of lineal feet of edging done with them, and nary a burp.
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