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Walnut Natural Finish

2K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  bilyo 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hello,

First time posting to this forum. I'm building a farmhouse type kitchen dining table. Top is made of Walnut. Trying to figure out how to finish. My wife loves the colder grey tone of the wood and would like to keep that as much as possible. She doesn't want the darker brown or red-ish finish. From what I've read the only way to keep the color as much like the gray as possible is to use a water-white or clear water based type finish.

Few questions:

Is it a mistake to use a water based laquer or finish for a kitchen table - I have young children?
I have read about Sherwin-Williams CAB-Acrylic Laquer being very good at keeping color, but I can't figure out how to purchase. Can't find on their website. Is there another suggest brand or other option?
Would I need to use a top coat with this?
Is there a better way?

To be fair, this is my first table so I'm learning as I go.

Thanks in Advance.

-Adam
 
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#3 ·
The water based finishes will generally have less warm appearance but walnut will naturally darken and redden some with age so it may be inevitable. Just try it on a piece of scrap or the bottom of the table top to see how it looks. I've never used a lacquer finish on anything that large so I would probably go with a water based polyurethane instead of the lacquer. Poly will give you a nice tough finish. I finished my breakfast table and chairs with an oil based poly finish over 25 years ago and they have held up well. Even buckles from sitting on their sandals on the chairs when they were little only left slight scratches in the seats.
 
#6 ·
Thanks to those who have already replied.

Perhaps I don't really know what I'm talking about. :) Which wouldn't hurt my feelings if that's true.

The raw unfinished wood today has more of a grey undertone. Although having snapped a couple photos, I'm seeing a bit more red in the wood already. My wife was hoping to keep a more natural look of unfinished, but still be able to protect it. She likes the look of the cooler look vs the warmer red/brown you get when applying oil based products. I have tried on a few scrap pieces. Everything is coming out VERY brown or red. I've tried two different Danish Oils on different sections, and just a clear poly without stain on another. There's not much difference. Even tried leaving the oils on in varying lengths of time.

Maybe what's I'm asking for is unreasonable or not possible??

Wood Sleeve Rectangle Grey Table


Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Composite material
 

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#8 ·
So you want more of the sanded, dry look? You could do a like an annie sloan white wax, but then it would have pretty much no protection, unless you got a piece of glass cut to cover the whole top. So you are going to have a tradeoff between the look you want and the level of protection, which being a table you want kind of high.
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
In my experience a clear water based polyurethane will do most of the tings you are looking for.
It will slow down the natural age darkening of the wood quite a bit (unless it is exposed to direct sunlight).
It will not add any color of it's own because it is very clear after it cures.
It will produce a tough surface (3 or more coats) to protect against scratches; especially if you get one that is a "floor" finish grade.
It is also easy to apply wither brush or spray but don't brush it on at temperatures over about 75 degrees as it will start curing before it has time to level out. A satin finish will give more of a "natural" look. If it gets scratched over time you can sand it and apply additional coats as long as the underlying wood is not affected.
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
You can try these on a piece of scrap:
-Thin acrylic dull white paint with water.
- Wipe the surface with wet cloth and let it dry.
- Sand the surface
Apply the paint and wipe off to the desired color
Apply poly after 24 hours

Another alternative is to use a liquid sealer and instead of putting a thin coat on the wood, put a thick enough coats until the wood won't absorb it any more (may have to sand and repeat a few times). Apply poly after 24 hours. The disadvantage with this is that after a coat or two of poly, the grain will be totally covered and it will look like it is covered with plastic.

You may also experiment with bleach and water. Apply (flood), let it set for a few minutes and vacuum. Rinse and repeat.
Make sure you look really tired and pretend that you have worked very hard on these 3 methods. Show all three example to her and I bet she will pick one. :)
 
#11 ·
Thank you for the responses so far. Appreciate the help. I have some things to test.

Followup question: I have read varying topics on oil vs water based stains / top coats. Seems to be a consensus that Oil base provides better overall protection. But a couple more recent studies suggest water based products have closed the gap and are very similar now in regards to protection. In you're opinion is there a big difference and would there be any concern if I decided to use a water based product?
 
#12 ·
Wb is not as tough as ob poly yet. To keep the "cold" color you will need to use wb. My pick is Target Coatings EM9000, it is water clear, a wb poly. If I remember right EM8000 yellows some but could be wrong, check their website. I havent used it but GF Hi Performance, a wb poly, is supposed to be water clear and gets hi marks. Target also sells a crosslinker to improve abrasion resistance, and I believe GF does also - use it for a dining table application. Since your wife wants a "natural" look, go with satin. Do not use any wb finish not claiming to be a poly - too soft. Best sprayed but can be brushed - foam brushes seam to get the best results.

The toughest application Ive used em9000 on was a dining table for my daughter 11 years ago. It has held up well during my grandson's 9 yrs.
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
You can try these on a piece of scrap:
-Thin acrylic dull white paint with water.
- Wipe the surface with wet cloth and let it dry.
- Sand the surface
Apply the paint and wipe off to the desired color
Apply poly after 24 hours

Another alternative is to use a liquid sealer and instead of putting a thin coat on the wood, put a thick enough coats until the wood won t absorb it any more (may have to sand and repeat a few times). Apply poly after 24 hours. The disadvantage with this is that after a coat or two of poly, the grain will be totally covered and it will look like it is covered with plastic.

You may also experiment with bleach and water. Apply (flood), let it set for a few minutes and vacuum. Rinse and repeat.
Make sure you look really tired and pretend that you have worked very hard on these 3 methods. Show all three example to her and I bet she will pick one. :)

- mahdee
Related to your bleach tip i thought about a mellow lime wash like they use on oak. Walnut might work similar, something to test
 
#17 ·
"Op wanted a grey natural look, like it is after it's sanded. Not any darker or any more color."
Yes, but following those processes, a little amber might actually look just right. As I mentioned, three tes blocks will provide 6 alternatives.
 
#18 ·
All,

Thank you for all your help and advice. I finally finished the table and was able to get it into the house today. Believe it or not, my wife actually ended up liking the darker finish opposed to the natural color I originally asked about. All the "clear" top coats I tried for a natural look ended up causing a slightly purple hue to the finish - weird. Ended up going with a Natural Danish Oil base with 4 coats of clear satin polyurethane on top. I think I need to learn how to apply a spray topcoat as that was the hardest part to keep smooth without streaks. Perhaps when I refinish years from now I'll try my hand there. Links to photos below.
Table Furniture Writing desk Wood Desk


Table Furniture Wood Desk Floor


Wood Rectangle Cabinetry Flooring Floor


Table Rectangle Wood Tile flooring Flooring


Again thank you all.

-Adam
 

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#21 ·
Adam just fyi - solvent poly sucks to spray IMO. Easy to get a smooth coat but stays wet for long time for dust and bugs, and the overspray doesnt dry until after it lands, making everything feel like sandpaper. Better choices are solvent precat lacquer or wb poly. Things can be done with wb to make it look more like solvent finishes.
 
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