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Keeping glue joints aligned

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Forum topic by MrRon posted 04-11-2019 06:40 PM 1152 views 0 times favorited 38 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MrRon

5907 posts in 3985 days


04-11-2019 06:40 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

After spreading glue on both pieces of wood, and pressing them together; when I try to clamp them, the “slippery” glue lets the wood move out of alignment. What is the right way to clamp so they stay in alignment?


38 replies so far

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

12132 posts in 4170 days


#1 posted 04-11-2019 06:51 PM

Edge guing or face gluing? Or, something else?

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View CWWoodworking's profile

CWWoodworking

713 posts in 920 days


#2 posted 04-11-2019 07:09 PM

Assuming your talking panels, use clamps on top and bottom. Tighten top ones first while pushing down on middle of bar.

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

5545 posts in 1331 days


#3 posted 04-11-2019 07:27 PM

For panels, use either dowels, biscuits or cauls. You can make cauls easily with 8/4 stock ripped straight and then cut to a slight arch in the middle. I have a piece of MDF that I use as a template to cut the profile on my router table with a profile bit. Also, be sure to cover the edge with something like packing tape so the glue doesn’t stick.

If you’re talking about face-to-face, a lot depends on the situation. You can get the pieces aligned and shoot a couple of 23 ga pins to hold them in place while you clamp. You can also shoot three or four 23 ga pins that are shorter than the thickness of the board into one face and clip them with diagonal cutters. The little protrusions are enough to bite and prevent slippage, but small enough not to prevent the pieces from coming together.

For right angle, it’s hard to beat dowels, although the right angle clamping guides you can buy or make help keep the edges flush.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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Aj2

2987 posts in 2539 days


#4 posted 04-11-2019 08:02 PM

I find different projects always present this challenge. Sometimes I use blocks sometimes I use blue tape or packing tape. It’s a whole separate set of skills we develop.
Good luck

-- Aj

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JohnMcClure

992 posts in 1382 days


#5 posted 04-11-2019 08:08 PM



For panels, use either dowels, biscuits or cauls. You can make cauls easily with 8/4 stock ripped straight and then cut to a slight arch in the middle. I have a piece of MDF that I use as a template to cut the profile on my router table with a profile bit. Also, be sure to cover the edge with something like packing tape so the glue doesn t stick.

If you re talking about face-to-face, a lot depends on the situation. You can get the pieces aligned and shoot a couple of 23 ga pins to hold them in place while you clamp. You can also shoot three or four 23 ga pins that are shorter than the thickness of the board into one face and clip them with diagonal cutters. The little protrusions are enough to bite and prevent slippage, but small enough not to prevent the pieces from coming together.

For right angle, it s hard to beat dowels, although the right angle clamping guides you can buy or make help keep the edges flush.

- Rich


Rich,
Never thought of that trick but it sounds like a good one. I’ll have to remember that. Thanks.
MrRon,
Good thread.

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

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SMP

2017 posts in 647 days


#6 posted 04-11-2019 09:12 PM

for edge glue, I prefer biscuits or if its a shorter piece, just rub jointing it.

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Rich

5545 posts in 1331 days


#7 posted 04-11-2019 09:46 PM


You can also shoot three or four 23 ga pins that are shorter than the thickness of the board into one face and clip them with diagonal cutters.

- Rich

I’m sure it’s obvious that if the pins go in flush with the board, the above trick is worthless. One good way to make sure the pins stand proud of the surface is to shoot them through a thin board, maybe 1/8” to 1/16”, laying on top of the board you want to glue. The thin board will lift off of the pins easily and there will be enough pin protruding to snip like described above.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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Andybb

2756 posts in 1345 days


#8 posted 04-11-2019 09:48 PM


I find different projects always present this challenge. Sometimes I use blocks sometimes I use blue tape or packing tape. It’s a whole separate set of skills we develop.
Good luck

- Aj2

+1 At least for me. It seems that every time I have a technique that works the next project calls for something more innovative because the clamp is in the way or not long enough or the wood is warped more etc. Some folks recommend adding salt to the glue joint to act as an abrasive but I have yet to do that. The scariest is with plywood or veneer as there is little wiggle room before you’ve sanded past the “Oh f**k” stage and gone through the top layer of veneer.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Andybb

2756 posts in 1345 days


#9 posted 04-11-2019 09:51 PM

Sorry. Double post.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Bill_Steele's profile

Bill_Steele

698 posts in 2473 days


#10 posted 04-11-2019 10:41 PM

I like biscuits or loose tenons.

View pottz's profile

pottz

9544 posts in 1726 days


#11 posted 04-11-2019 11:05 PM



I like biscuits or loose tenons.

- Bill_Steele


+1

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1720 posts in 2471 days


#12 posted 04-11-2019 11:37 PM

Don’t worry about. After the glue is dried, just start sanding . It’ll clean up. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

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Delete

439 posts in 1113 days


#13 posted 04-12-2019 04:27 AM

If you want to attempt to make your own clamps a set of three of these https://hobbyworkshopprojects.blogspot.com/2019/03/woods-panel-clamps.html will handle most of your edge and face gluing needs. They are unique in that they apply pressure in two directions by tightening one screw. The more pressure you apply to the glued surface the more pressure is applied to keep everything from slipping. I can’t remember where I found it but it is clearly from a late 80’s “Wood” magazine. Once three are applied and tightened you can add all the clamps you need depending on the size of your work without fear of misaligning the glue-up.

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crowie

3642 posts in 2692 days


#14 posted 04-12-2019 08:30 AM

Mr Ron, I had a similar issue with the toy making.
A woodworking friend suggested I use Titebond Original and I’ve been using it ever since!

-- Lifes good, Enjoy each new day...... Cheers from "On Top DownUnder" Crowie

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ibewjon

1557 posts in 3534 days


#15 posted 04-12-2019 09:08 AM

That is called an Equipressure clamp. The Kitts, minus the wood may still be available. I am not sure who sold them.

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