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Keeping glue joints aligned

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Forum topic by MrRon posted 04-11-2019 06:40 PM 903 views 0 times favorited 38 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MrRon

5430 posts in 3602 days


04-11-2019 06:40 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

After spreading glue on both pieces of wood, and pressing them together; when I try to clamp them, the “slippery” glue lets the wood move out of alignment. What is the right way to clamp so they stay in alignment?


38 replies so far

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

11486 posts in 3787 days


#1 posted 04-11-2019 06:51 PM

Edge guing or face gluing? Or, something else?

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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CWWoodworking

428 posts in 537 days


#2 posted 04-11-2019 07:09 PM

Assuming your talking panels, use clamps on top and bottom. Tighten top ones first while pushing down on middle of bar.

View Rich's profile

Rich

4391 posts in 948 days


#3 posted 04-11-2019 07:27 PM

For panels, use either dowels, biscuits or cauls. You can make cauls easily with 8/4 stock ripped straight and then cut to a slight arch in the middle. I have a piece of MDF that I use as a template to cut the profile on my router table with a profile bit. Also, be sure to cover the edge with something like packing tape so the glue doesn’t stick.

If you’re talking about face-to-face, a lot depends on the situation. You can get the pieces aligned and shoot a couple of 23 ga pins to hold them in place while you clamp. You can also shoot three or four 23 ga pins that are shorter than the thickness of the board into one face and clip them with diagonal cutters. The little protrusions are enough to bite and prevent slippage, but small enough not to prevent the pieces from coming together.

For right angle, it’s hard to beat dowels, although the right angle clamping guides you can buy or make help keep the edges flush.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

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Aj2

2195 posts in 2156 days


#4 posted 04-11-2019 08:02 PM

I find different projects always present this challenge. Sometimes I use blocks sometimes I use blue tape or packing tape. It’s a whole separate set of skills we develop.
Good luck

-- Aj

View JohnMcClure's profile

JohnMcClure

618 posts in 999 days


#5 posted 04-11-2019 08:08 PM



For panels, use either dowels, biscuits or cauls. You can make cauls easily with 8/4 stock ripped straight and then cut to a slight arch in the middle. I have a piece of MDF that I use as a template to cut the profile on my router table with a profile bit. Also, be sure to cover the edge with something like packing tape so the glue doesn t stick.

If you re talking about face-to-face, a lot depends on the situation. You can get the pieces aligned and shoot a couple of 23 ga pins to hold them in place while you clamp. You can also shoot three or four 23 ga pins that are shorter than the thickness of the board into one face and clip them with diagonal cutters. The little protrusions are enough to bite and prevent slippage, but small enough not to prevent the pieces from coming together.

For right angle, it s hard to beat dowels, although the right angle clamping guides you can buy or make help keep the edges flush.

- Rich


Rich,
Never thought of that trick but it sounds like a good one. I’ll have to remember that. Thanks.
MrRon,
Good thread.

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

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SMP

830 posts in 264 days


#6 posted 04-11-2019 09:12 PM

for edge glue, I prefer biscuits or if its a shorter piece, just rub jointing it.

View Rich's profile

Rich

4391 posts in 948 days


#7 posted 04-11-2019 09:46 PM


You can also shoot three or four 23 ga pins that are shorter than the thickness of the board into one face and clip them with diagonal cutters.

- Rich

I’m sure it’s obvious that if the pins go in flush with the board, the above trick is worthless. One good way to make sure the pins stand proud of the surface is to shoot them through a thin board, maybe 1/8” to 1/16”, laying on top of the board you want to glue. The thin board will lift off of the pins easily and there will be enough pin protruding to snip like described above.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1884 posts in 962 days


#8 posted 04-11-2019 09:48 PM


I find different projects always present this challenge. Sometimes I use blocks sometimes I use blue tape or packing tape. It’s a whole separate set of skills we develop.
Good luck

- Aj2

+1 At least for me. It seems that every time I have a technique that works the next project calls for something more innovative because the clamp is in the way or not long enough or the wood is warped more etc. Some folks recommend adding salt to the glue joint to act as an abrasive but I have yet to do that. The scariest is with plywood or veneer as there is little wiggle room before you’ve sanded past the “Oh f**k” stage and gone through the top layer of veneer.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Andybb

1884 posts in 962 days


#9 posted 04-11-2019 09:51 PM

Sorry. Double post.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Bill_Steele's profile

Bill_Steele

505 posts in 2090 days


#10 posted 04-11-2019 10:41 PM

I like biscuits or loose tenons.

View pottz's profile

pottz

4996 posts in 1343 days


#11 posted 04-11-2019 11:05 PM



I like biscuits or loose tenons.

- Bill_Steele


+1

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1534 posts in 2088 days


#12 posted 04-11-2019 11:37 PM

Don’t worry about. After the glue is dried, just start sanding . It’ll clean up. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

View Carlos510's profile

Carlos510

255 posts in 730 days


#13 posted 04-12-2019 04:27 AM

If you want to attempt to make your own clamps a set of three of these https://hobbyworkshopprojects.blogspot.com/2019/03/woods-panel-clamps.html will handle most of your edge and face gluing needs. They are unique in that they apply pressure in two directions by tightening one screw. The more pressure you apply to the glued surface the more pressure is applied to keep everything from slipping. I can’t remember where I found it but it is clearly from a late 80’s “Wood” magazine. Once three are applied and tightened you can add all the clamps you need depending on the size of your work without fear of misaligning the glue-up.

-- "If time is money, then I need a loan" , http://www.hobbyworkshopprojects.blogspot.com/

View crowie's profile

crowie

3032 posts in 2309 days


#14 posted 04-12-2019 08:30 AM

Mr Ron, I had a similar issue with the toy making.
A woodworking friend suggested I use Titebond Original and I’ve been using it ever since!

-- Lifes good, Enjoy each new day...... Cheers from "On Top DownUnder" Crowie

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ibewjon

361 posts in 3152 days


#15 posted 04-12-2019 09:08 AM

That is called an Equipressure clamp. The Kitts, minus the wood may still be available. I am not sure who sold them.

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