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Jennings Bit Box Dimensions?

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Forum topic by Bill Berklich posted 03-21-2019 05:59 PM 446 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bill Berklich

741 posts in 718 days


03-21-2019 05:59 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tip storage auger bits jennings irwin brace bit box

Ladies and Gents – anyone out there have drawings, sketches, dimensions for a Jennings 13(?) Bit box? I have 19 bits that need a home and I’ve been thinking about building one but I haven’t found any dimensions. And it doesn’t necessarily have to be a Jennings box. Maybe an Irwin Swing out? Or if you have a better idea let me know.

One like this?

-- Bill - Rochester MI


17 replies so far

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therealSteveN

2371 posts in 904 days


#1 posted 03-22-2019 08:38 AM

Mine is a 13.

10 5/16 across. 3 7/8 wide. 3 divided trays high, each with their own clasp. Height is 3 3/4 with a lid height of 5/16” and a 1/8th” bottom. Top tray is right at 1” tall, Middle is at 1 1/8”, and the bottom tray is again at 1”. Too look at it I was sure they were all equal. I measured them 3 times, and the center tray is just a n 1/8” deeper. It’s the bottom I’m not sure of on mine. It appears to be hardboard by the look, but it is wood, just a poor match to the rest of the box. The color of mine is a rich Oak, but the bottom looks exactly like hardboard for color, so it may be a replacement. Hopefully someone else will know.

The trays are just a grooved affairs with 3 chisels for the large sized bits on the bottom, middle holds 4, and top has 6.

The box itself is an 1/8” box joint, corners are rounded so there are no sharp edges. That could have been done by an owner before me though, as they aren’t consistent. Maybe they wouldn’t have been machined back then, just worked by hand, but the round over is not consistent.

Small flat cheap hinges hold the trays together, and are easily sprung considering the weight for the size of hinge. 3/4×3/4 open. The front clasps are much more ornate, and are as seen on your pic.

My camera is down. I put it on the charger. If you need pics shout.

I looked real quick, possibly you have seen this site, but I couldn’t take any better pics. I will say the hinges on the back are not what I have, mine are much plainer, and do not have clasps coming up on top of the box like those shown HERE.

I like the backstory after this post. It would appear to be a bit confused though, because this has gotten more traction.

Everything else is what I have. My label is the very dark, almost hard to read one. I’ve been led to believe they are Pre Stanley, the newer ones are quite bright, with green script, and it’s on these that have the fancy rear hinges.

-- Think safe, be safe

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Bill Berklich

741 posts in 718 days


#2 posted 03-22-2019 10:22 AM



Mine is a 13.

- therealSteveN

Thanks – that’s exactly what I was looking for!! Interesting backstory too.

-- Bill - Rochester MI

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SMP

607 posts in 235 days


#3 posted 03-22-2019 12:31 PM

I have the irwin 13 basic folding box if you want dimensions/pics let me know.

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Bill Berklich

741 posts in 718 days


#4 posted 03-22-2019 01:04 PM



I have the irwin 13 basic folding box if you want dimensions/pics let me know.

- SMP

Sure! More info I have the better job I can do

-- Bill - Rochester MI

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SMP

607 posts in 235 days


#5 posted 03-22-2019 02:11 PM


I have the irwin 13 basic folding box if you want dimensions/pics let me know.

- SMP

Sure! More info I have the better job I can do

- Bill Berklich

Ok I’ll post some pics with measurements when I get home. Pretty plain but probably the easiest to build.

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Bill Berklich

741 posts in 718 days


#6 posted 03-22-2019 05:47 PM



Mine is a 13.

10 5/16 across. 3 7/8 wide. 3 divided trays high, each with their own clasp. Height is 3 3/4 with a lid height of 5/16” and a 1/8th” bottom. Top tray is right at 1” tall, Middle is at 1 1/8”, and the bottom tray is again at 1”.

The trays are just a grooved affairs with 3 chisels for the large sized bits on the bottom, middle holds 4, and top has 6.

- therealSteveN

Pics would be great if you have the time and curious about the middle section – is the bottom flush or is it inset by and 1/8” or 3/16”?

-- Bill - Rochester MI

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SMP

607 posts in 235 days


#7 posted 03-22-2019 08:03 PM

Here you go, its just shy of 6 3/8 wide, 10 3/8 long, shy of 2 5/8 tall. Finger jointed corners pinned top and bottom and basic hinges and clasp. Hope it helps, let us see what you end up building!

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therealSteveN

2371 posts in 904 days


#8 posted 03-22-2019 10:02 PM

Bottom is inset, probably at around 1/4”

I’ve been watching hoops, and didn’t get back to the camera till just now. It’s still having issues. Lemme see if I can make it work by tomorrow, if not I’ll just do crappy cell phone pics.

-- Think safe, be safe

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Bill Berklich

741 posts in 718 days


#9 posted 03-22-2019 10:10 PM

Cool whenever you have time. Hope your team won.

-- Bill - Rochester MI

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therealSteveN

2371 posts in 904 days


#10 posted 03-22-2019 10:32 PM

Ok, the Wife came home, and then the camera works, go figure. Hopefully I am not overdoing it.

Front

Back

Open showing label

Middle row

That last one went real slow, so I’m going to make 2 entries.

-- Think safe, be safe

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SMP

607 posts in 235 days


#11 posted 03-22-2019 10:44 PM

What did you finish your with? ^^

BLO? I wanted to do something to mine as the wood is pretty dry, but too lazy.

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therealSteveN

2371 posts in 904 days


#12 posted 03-22-2019 11:07 PM

Bottom row

My bottom is loose on one side. I spread it a bit to show how thin the bottom is, and if you squint real close you can make out the inset. I’d say it was close to a 1/4”

Ok with all that, and after seeing SMP’s Irwin box, I would make that. Unless you just want historical accuracy. His looks to be tight, and for lack of a better word, ROBUST.

Even on the newer looking labeled boxes I have seen what mine has. It’s got quite a bit of weight in it, for the thicknesses of the wood, and it does the shimmy shimmy shake pretty easy. I find mine is really tight on the top, and middle sections, but if i don’t handle it carefully the bottom will separate from the lower portion of the middle. It doesn’t try to open, it slides sideways (shifting) Anyhow if the aim is just a box that will stay together through what a shop can throw at it, I’d make one like the Irwin box. Matter of fact I may do that for using them. Keep the good box pretty.

-- Think safe, be safe

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therealSteveN

2371 posts in 904 days


#13 posted 03-22-2019 11:11 PM

If that was for me, mine is untouched, it was a plum. I haven’t even put a coat of wax on it. Most of the one’s I’ve seen in the wild are pretty rough. If the wood is really dry, I like Walnut oil to renew, and moisten the wood. I have a huge tool chest that was arid, it had no moisture, and some Walnut oil fixed it up. I was surprised it did so much.

-- Think safe, be safe

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Bill Berklich

741 posts in 718 days


#14 posted 03-23-2019 10:14 AM

Btw here’s the bits that are looking for a place in the shop

Missing 4, 6 , 11. The one on the right is an Irwin 18.

Extras of 16,13, 7 (3), and 5
The roll is close to 100 years old.

-- Bill - Rochester MI

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therealSteveN

2371 posts in 904 days


#15 posted 03-23-2019 08:56 PM

Box will be a big plus. Those old tool roll ups were a way for a guy to get em there, but just like chisels at the cost of the cutting edges getting beat up something awful.

With a chisel you can always regrind/resharpen. Your beat the ears off those augers, and it’s game over unless you can braze on metal. It can be done, but never like they started out.

-- Think safe, be safe

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