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Forum topic by chadham posted 03-20-2019 11:30 PM 216 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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chadham

8 posts in 981 days


03-20-2019 11:30 PM

Topic tags/keywords: design glue up coffee table joinery question

I am struggling coming up with a decent alternative other than veneering. I tend to shy away from veneer in this instance because I need to make more than one of these pieces. I just want fresh sets of eyes and minds on this to see about possible alternatives! the first image is the inspiration photo and the second is a rudimentary sketchup drawing drawn to scale with the needed dimensions of 48”x24”x24”. My initial thought was to glue up panels to make up each base and then laminate the panels in sequences until it became a single base. But i have doubts on how the wood movements would fair on that method overtime. Any other thoughts, ideas, or insight is appreciated!

the coffee tables will be made out of locally harvested texas pecan

-- Chad, Texas


6 replies so far

View jmos's profile

jmos

913 posts in 2697 days


#1 posted 03-21-2019 12:00 AM

I agree, wood movement would be an issue.

Just talking off the top of my head, I think I’d try to use a threaded rod, mount it to the underside of the table top, drill clearance holes through the bulk of the boards, and use a nut to tension it on the bottom (maybe two rods.)

You could then use a couple of alignment pins/dowels on each layer (aligned with the grain) to keep them from sliding around, but allowing expansion and contraction across the grain.

-- John

View chadham's profile

chadham

8 posts in 981 days


#2 posted 03-21-2019 12:48 AM

That’s a great idea John! And it’d definitely make it lighter to deliver and install. I could bring all of the pieces numbered, dominoed/dowelled, and then stack and assemble on site

-- Chad, Texas

View BlueRidgeDog's profile

BlueRidgeDog

472 posts in 107 days


#3 posted 03-21-2019 12:57 AM

could do just two dowels each in the center, then a single recessed bold that goes into a threaded receiver. Either way I would hog out the non show parts.

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

603 posts in 1430 days


#4 posted 03-21-2019 02:52 AM

I think jmos has a good idea. If I may add to that: If you used two threaded rods along a line parallel with the red axis (referring to your drawing) then the holes in each board could be snug to the rod and, thus, keep all the boards aligned as you design them. At the same time, each board could expand and contract as needed each way from the rods (cross grain).

If I may make an observation: I think your top should be thicker (or appear to be by adding some edging) than the base members. Also, to my eye, the proportions would be a bit better if the top was a bit larger as your inspiration piece seems to be.

This is an interesting project. Please post some pictures when it’s finished.

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chadham

8 posts in 981 days


#5 posted 03-21-2019 02:59 AM

Thanks bilyo, i think thats what im going to end up doing. It’s funny you say that because pointed out both of those same observations to the designers and they said to keep to keep it as it is. The top needs to stay that size and thickness, but I could see about resizing the base some to make it seem less “heavy”. I just worry that since it will be in an restaurant/bar and it is a pedestal base i don’t want it to tip over from too much weight on an end.

-- Chad, Texas

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

603 posts in 1430 days


#6 posted 03-21-2019 02:17 PM

One possible solution might be to make most of the base members somewhat smaller, but keep the bottom one larger for stability. If the top must be the thickness shown, could you reduce the thickness of the base members. Or, maybe make the base members of varying thicknesses.

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