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gloves

2K views 24 replies 20 participants last post by  RichBolduc 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I know most are against gloves in the shop other than staining/painting etc. or the cut resistant kind for chisels. I agree with that, BUT…..............I do want some finger less gloves for my left hand for wood turning. I'd like them to combat the vibration which contributes to my trigger finger. I'm using a bike glove right now. It has some gel padding and I like the rubber on the palm for grip. My problem is since these have the cloth areas the small chips get stuck to those areas and some on the inside. Ouch. lol Does anyone have a brand of gloves to help solve my problem, no material that would hold chips? Thanks!
 
#2 ·
I have two different ones I use now. One is the Isotoner driving gloves (spandex & leather?) and the other is aviator gloves (lamb).
Both fit skin tight.
Before I went really cheap but it they worked well. The blue medical type glove and I placed about a 3" long strip of duct tape at the edge of my left hand down to the little finger. Since there is no L or R and I only wear one on my left a box last a long long time. Can get…mmmm.. sweaty in the summer and not feel so good put does protect the hand from hot/sharp chips.
 
#3 ·
Those that claim not to wear gloves during the last winter, sure as not, did not get much work accomplished. The cold steel actually hurt after just a few minutes. It seemed safer to wear them that lose feeling in my fingers and control of the tools.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
I will admit it, sometimes use gloves when wood working.
But, really only wear gloves when working with plywood sheets, or select few other woods that have deaf defying splinters (like zebra wood or rough sawn oak/ash) The cheap BB plywood in my area generates lethal splinters if you even look at it. Gloves stop 99% of the super small annoying splinters I get from touching the edge of plywood. They also provide some additional adhesion to help mangle large pieces across the table saw.
I only use a tight fitting poly coated nylon glove like this one from HF:
https://www.harborfreight.com/household/gloves/nylon-knit-gloves-with-nitrile-palms-x-large-66376.html
They fit almost as tight as famous cheap HF blue nitrile gloves many folks use for finishing.

I also keep these gloves handy when moving large wood panels or projects between work station and floor. As I have gotten older, by grip is not as strong, and the poly glove film provides a non-slip grip. Makes moving stuff around shop much safer.

I also keep a pair of HF padded work gloves in shop to use when using ROS sanders. Helps reduce the vibration stress on my old carpel tunnel prone wrists.

Not sure if either of these will be good for turning?

Considering 10 months out of year my AZ garage shop is over 80F when I am working, gloves are a hot PIA. So they are only worn when absolutely needed, and are worn to avoid injury (as intended).

YMMV
 
#6 ·
The no gloves thing is at times a bit too fanatically stated. When ripping down plywood…gloves. When doing bulk work on rough sawn lumber…gloves. They are a great way to protect your hands and only need to come off if doing close in work with spinning equipment that could catch them. Even then, standard push stick and distance rules should prevent you from getting close enough for an issue.
 
#7 ·
I use heavy duty cowhide leather work gloves for many things, including sanding small parts at the belt sander. One pair of insulated ones which were too short for my big fingers after they got wet and the leather shrank a little got the fingertips cut off and the insulation works for isolating me from vibration. Very little sticks to the leather, especially since it's pretty well worn smooth.
 
#8 ·
Gloves are acceptable while working in the shop except while using rotating machinery. Lathe work, grinder, skill saw, miter saw, etc. gloves should be avoided. Years ago, while working, I got my glove, caught in a grinder. My right index finger was broken and multiple cuts and abrasions. Also a stern reaming from the boss for being so stupid. I do, however, use Working Hands salve before and after shop time. Sawdust and dry wood seem to dry my skin and increase cracking on the fingertips.
 
#9 ·
When I worked with my tools as a carpenter, I had the tough skin/callouses to handle day-to-day woodworking; but even then I use gloves when handling rough/splinter prone wood. Today, with my hands pretty much as smooth as a baby's bottom, I use gloves around the shop in most operations. Both to prevent/avoid splinters and to help with grip on large/heavy pieces.
I have found these to be a good choice…...........

Gloves

They handle handle grip as well as padding for sanding/vibration operations.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I think I'll forgo the gloves other than wood handling/moving. I was wearing them to grind to protect from the heat, guess I'll have to give that up too. I do use them with a chain saw, is that OK?
 
#12 ·
One of the guys in my turning club was wearing gloves at work, polishing a piece of steel on a drill press. A finger of the glove caught the revolving drum on the drill press, and 'degloved' his left hand. He lost 3 fingers and his thumb, and has had many, many surgeries. Google the term 'degloved', and see if you think it is worth the risk.
 
#14 ·
I don't need gloves. My hands are always covered with so many bandages they would hardly help.

- SMP
Hahahaha That's a good one. Hahahaha

Actually I don't have enough fingers left to lose anymore.

For those who think you might be able to prevent a grab wearing gloves, think about the "in the blink of an eye " saying. That's how long it takes to feel the pain after seeing the mistake about to happen. .......... Jerry (in Tucson)
 
#17 ·
I tend to use gloves early in a project when I'm breaking down rough lumber. I got tired of pulling the splinters out of my hands. After I have flat boards, the gloves go in the drawer.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
When I worked with my tools as a carpenter, I had the tough skin/callouses to handle day-to-day woodworking; but even then I use gloves when handling rough/splinter prone wood. Today, with my hands pretty much as smooth as a baby s bottom, I use gloves around the shop in most operations. Both to prevent/avoid splinters and to help with grip on large/heavy pieces.
I have found these to be a good choice…...........

Gloves

They handle handle grip as well as padding for sanding/vibration operations.

- Blindhog
Might have to go look at these. Ordered some fingerless gloves off Amazon thinking XL should fit a 6' dude. Not so. I'm in need of XXL. Took a gander at HD today for gloves. All were XL and lower. How many tall guys are in search of gloves? I can't be the only tall guy looking for gloves. Couldn't image what S feels like :) Would be great to haul lumber around. And also, due to my day job, I get cuts or blisters at times. Could use a little protection when hand planing.
 
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