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Forum topic by steffen707 posted 03-04-2019 02:47 AM 1022 views 0 times favorited 37 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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steffen707

172 posts in 2802 days


03-04-2019 02:47 AM

i was told by a local wood worker that I shouldn’t try flattening a slab that was cut from a tree trunk last week until its dried. Its like 4” thick 30” diameter. instead of sitting it in my basement for 4 years to dry, i wanted to flatten it with a router to about 1-1.5” and then let it dry.

Do you guys see a problem with flattening a freshly cut slab?

-- If you think it will take a week and cost $100, it will take a month and cost $400.


37 replies so far

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bigblockyeti

5970 posts in 2229 days


#1 posted 03-04-2019 02:55 AM

You can certainly have it dry much faster if you cut it down to 1.5” or less to dry but whatever you do now, know you’ll be flattening it again after it’s dry. Are you planning on taking 2.5” – 3” off with the router alone?

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

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steffen707

172 posts in 2802 days


#2 posted 03-04-2019 02:59 AM

i was thinking of taking the 2.5” off with the router alone. Is that bad? I know it’ll take a long time, but I don’t know of any local places with a 30” planer.

-- If you think it will take a week and cost $100, it will take a month and cost $400.

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pontic

697 posts in 1117 days


#3 posted 03-04-2019 03:05 AM

Best to let it dry at the 4” thinner green wood will warp and wtist at a greater rate than thicker wood. Yes it will dry faster but you are cutting away any fibers that are countering the warping forces as the wood drys.
Take it to someone that has a kiln.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

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steffen707

172 posts in 2802 days


#4 posted 03-04-2019 03:07 AM

Any idea on how long a 4” by 30” slab would take to kiln dry?

-- If you think it will take a week and cost $100, it will take a month and cost $400.

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bigblockyeti

5970 posts in 2229 days


#5 posted 03-04-2019 03:08 AM

It would likely take a very, very long time to plow off that much wood even with a large router. Finding a mill and having it milled down to close to your desired thickness then let it dry for a year and a half or so and flatten it after the MC stabilizes.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

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Sylvain

881 posts in 3008 days


#6 posted 03-04-2019 08:06 AM

If it is 4” thick and you need 1”1/2, have it cut in two 2” ( minus the kerf) slabs before drying.

-- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn

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Snipes

432 posts in 2753 days


#7 posted 03-04-2019 10:19 AM

What sylvain said.. You surely could flatten it some, but you’ll have to do it again after it dries.

-- if it is to be it is up to me

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Robert

3537 posts in 1989 days


#8 posted 03-04-2019 03:10 PM

You’re wasting your time at this point.

I suggest you have the slab resawn into 2 boards & put in stickers. I suggest banding them together with straps while they are drying.

If you can have them kiln dried ok, but you have to be careful with that.

Personally I always prefer air drying. You don’t have to worry about case hardening & I think the wood has a lot less stress and is more stable.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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steffen707

172 posts in 2802 days


#9 posted 03-04-2019 03:32 PM

Why do you say i’m wasting my time? If the board would be 2” thick, wouldn’t it take far less time to air dry?

Or should i have it kiln dried at 4” and then flatten it from there?


You re wasting your time at this point.

I suggest you have the slab resawn into 2 boards & put in stickers. I suggest banding them together with straps while they are drying.

If you can have them kiln dried ok, but you have to be careful with that.

Personally I always prefer air drying. You don t have to worry about case hardening & I think the wood has a lot less stress and is more stable.

- rwe2156


-- If you think it will take a week and cost $100, it will take a month and cost $400.

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steffen707

172 posts in 2802 days


#10 posted 03-04-2019 03:36 PM

I’m totally new to this slab stuff and wood drying. Does anybody have a good resource that I should read to learn some of this stuff, instead of just asking questions blindly?

-- If you think it will take a week and cost $100, it will take a month and cost $400.

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Jeff Heath

107 posts in 3578 days


#11 posted 03-04-2019 03:59 PM

A great place to start is with the authority on the subject…..”Understanding Wood” by Bruce Hoadley. It’s the “bible” for everything related to wood, working it, and how it behaves as it dries, etc…...

Where do you live? Your best bet, if you don’t want the 4” thickness, is to have it resawn into two 2” slabs. Twice as much fun, and 2 projects instead of one. Either way, you can’t do anything with the slab “green”, which is freshly sawn.

I own a sawmill. My LT40 has 26” between the guides. If your slab is wider than that, you need to find a mill with the appropriate sized throat for your slab. Resawing the slab is a far better use of the resource than wasting away half of it.

Using a router sled to reduce the size now is a useless exercise for you because the slab is going to need to dry before it can become stable enough to mill.

-- Jeff Heath

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steffen707

172 posts in 2802 days


#12 posted 03-04-2019 04:09 PM

Thanks Jeff. I live in central Wisconsin.

I’ll buy that book on Amazon right now.

I’ll try contacting a local mill to see if i can have it resawn, I completely agree if it is thick enough, might as well resaw it and have a 2nd piece. I said it was 4” thick without actually measuring it, it was just a ballpark, if its only 3” then I would think having it resawn would leave the slabs too thin for the drying process. Right now its in my co-workers basement. Its for an art piece for our office.


A great place to start is with the authority on the subject…..”Understanding Wood” by Bruce Hoadley. It s the “bible” for everything related to wood, working it, and how it behaves as it dries, etc…...

Where do you live? Your best bet, if you don t want the 4” thickness, is to have it resawn into two 2” slabs. Twice as much fun, and 2 projects instead of one. Either way, you can t do anything with the slab “green”, which is freshly sawn.

I own a sawmill. My LT40 has 26” between the guides. If your slab is wider than that, you need to find a mill with the appropriate sized throat for your slab. Resawing the slab is a far better use of the resource than wasting away half of it.

Using a router sled to reduce the size now is a useless exercise for you because the slab is going to need to dry before it can become stable enough to mill.

- Jeff Heath


-- If you think it will take a week and cost $100, it will take a month and cost $400.

View Jeff Heath's profile

Jeff Heath

107 posts in 3578 days


#13 posted 03-04-2019 04:16 PM

I’m in Northern Illinois, south of Lake Geneva. If it’s less than 26” wide, and you wanna make a drive (when it’s a little warmer out) bring it down. I’ll saw it for you.

-- Jeff Heath

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steffen707

172 posts in 2802 days


#14 posted 03-04-2019 04:22 PM

Thanks for the offer. I’m pretty sure its 30”, but perhaps some other time I could swing by? I’d love to see that in action, it would be neat for my boys too (5 and 2.5 years old)


I m in Northern Illinois, south of Lake Geneva. If it s less than 26” wide, and you wanna make a drive (when it s a little warmer out) bring it down. I ll saw it for you.

- Jeff Heath


-- If you think it will take a week and cost $100, it will take a month and cost $400.

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avsmusic1

528 posts in 1194 days


#15 posted 03-04-2019 05:02 PM

Just to clarify, this isn’t a cookie, right? It’s a 30” wide board w/ 2 live edges?

I ask b/c in the original post u say diameter and I don’t see the length listed anywhere (may have just missed it)

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