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Advice on building a Bandsaw Cabinet?

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Forum topic by jjminch posted 03-02-2019 10:57 PM 554 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jjminch

15 posts in 313 days


03-02-2019 10:57 PM

Evening all. I have a Delta 14” bandsaw with the open metal stand. I’m running really short on space and want to put it atop a cabinet with two drawers and casters. Probably about 20” wide.

I have plenty of 3/4” ply and MDF. I figured a double layer for the top and I’d just build a ply box with pocket screws.

With a 3/4” ply box with Kreg jig joinery be supportive enough? Or do I need to have an internal frame with 2×4s, or more complex types of joints?

Sorry for the elementary question just used to following plans.


16 replies so far

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Lazyman

3977 posts in 1899 days


#1 posted 03-02-2019 11:07 PM

Probably. Did you make it so that the sides are sitting on the bottom and the top is sitting on the sides? If so, and as long as you made it so that racking is not a problem, it should be fine. I made my drill press stand a few years ago using some pocket joints and it is rock solid, though I just drove the screws attaching the top and bottom in from the top and bottom. See the sketchup screenshot to see how it is constructed.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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SignWave

472 posts in 3546 days


#2 posted 03-03-2019 01:07 AM

My main worry would be that it is top heavy and it might tip while rolling around.

-- Barry, http://BarrysWorkshop.com/

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BFamous

322 posts in 632 days


#3 posted 03-03-2019 01:11 AM

I think pocket screws may actually be stronger than screwing into the plywood’s endgrain. Though as Layman states, be certain there is no racking. Screws in general are not good for lateral strength.

Also, of note, I built a “proof of concept” storage cabinet base out of 1/2” plywood about 9 months ago. Since that time, I turned it on it’s side and my Craftsman bandsaw has been sitting on it. Let me stress that there was zero thought put into making it work for this purpose – it just wound up there as I was moving things around my cluttered shop. So busing yours out of 3/4, and designing it so the sides sit on the bottom, and the top sits on the sides, and using pocket screws all around should be fine. Though I’d probably rabbet all of the ends to help keep things aligned and to provide more lateral stability.

-- Brian Famous :: Charlotte, NC :: http://www.FamousArtisan.com

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BFamous

322 posts in 632 days


#4 posted 03-03-2019 01:15 AM



My main worry would be that it is top heavy and it might tip while rolling around.

- SignWave


How wide is your bandsaw? It should be about 14 -16”, right? (I’m guesstimating). If you center that on a 20” wide cabinet build from 3/4” ply, you should not be so top heavy that it would want to tip over while rolling. Particularly if you add an extra shelf or two, or some doors, etc… and have it full of stuff. There should be plenty of weight in the cabinet to keep the center of gravity low enough to prevent tip over.

-- Brian Famous :: Charlotte, NC :: http://www.FamousArtisan.com

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MrUnix

7479 posts in 2710 days


#5 posted 03-03-2019 03:31 AM

Check out some of the homemade machine bases in this thread over at OWWM for some truly impressive work and good examples of what can be done with a little bit of wood and MDF:

Shopmade Machine Bases, Guards, Etc.: the cream of the crop

Should give you some good ideas for yours.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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fritzer1210

13 posts in 898 days


#6 posted 03-03-2019 04:04 AM

My 14” Jet bandsaw sits on a 3/4” plywood base with corner rollers that can lock. the bolts fastening the casters are located so that the nuts/bolts are protruding and touching each inside corner of the bandsaw base to prevent the saw from sliding off. I also took a heavy marker and drew the outline of the base onto the plywood to detect movement of the saw, if any.

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woodbutcherbynight

5974 posts in 2920 days


#7 posted 03-03-2019 04:58 AM

For shop cabinets and such I generally make a lower frame and a upper frame out of 1 1/2 square stock. Then screw the plywood sides and back into it. Face frame the front and install drawers / shelves. Plenty strong and gives you a base to attach your wheels. On the topside you can then go with 3/4 MDF, I use Formica for the top layer. Attached from bottom through your frame. Simple, no sexy joinery and will last a long time.

Only pic I have of this method.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

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jjminch

15 posts in 313 days


#8 posted 03-03-2019 05:01 AM

Thanks for all the replies. I was going off memory but upon measuring it’s actually 24” wide from bolt hole to bolt hole. The motor is to the side and not underneath.

So I’ll probably go 28” wide to have space for the fasteners and I’ll make sure to put the top ply “on top of” the side ply.

I have not yet attempted rabbet edges so this could be a good project to cut my teeth on.

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Bill_Steele

569 posts in 2243 days


#9 posted 03-04-2019 06:39 PM

I posted a few pictures on this thread > https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/303279 of a mobile base I made for my bandsaw. It doesn’t have drawers but I think you could change my design to incorporate them.

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Davevand

128 posts in 1347 days


#10 posted 03-04-2019 07:45 PM

I did this same thing to both of my band saws. I made them the same dimensions as the mobile base I was using and the same table height as they were. I made them both using 1” plywood and pocket hole screws, easy, quick and simple.

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jjminch

15 posts in 313 days


#11 posted 08-12-2019 02:39 PM

Well I finally finished this up. Used a mix of 3/4” ply scrap. The sides and some other pieces were pre-finished. The top and trim were done with a light stain and poly.

Did my first dado/rabbet joinery, not perfect but better than just using a Kreg jig and pocket screws as I normally do. Used pegboard for the backside in case I need to hang any jigs or spare blades.

I still need to mount a new magnetic switch and then install the riser kit.

It’s sturdy and wheels easily on the heavy casters.

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cmacnaughton

103 posts in 156 days


#12 posted 08-12-2019 03:31 PM

That looks great, JJ. I may just “borrow” your idea whenever I find a bandsaw worth buying that fits my budget.

-- –Chuck M. Nutmegger by choice

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BlasterStumps

1425 posts in 951 days


#13 posted 08-12-2019 04:18 PM

Nicely done. I have a similar Delta bandsaw but the motor is underneath in the stand. I wish now after seeing yours that I could come up with a belt guard like that so I could do a similar cabinet. Nice work.
Mike

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

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jjminch

15 posts in 313 days


#14 posted 08-12-2019 05:05 PM



Nicely done. I have a similar Delta bandsaw but the motor is underneath in the stand. I wish now after seeing yours that I could come up with a belt guard like that so I could do a similar cabinet. Nice work.
Mike

- BlasterStumps

I imagine you could probably just order a belt guard from my model saw or similar. Not sure what the pricing would be, but it probably wouldn’t be too hard to change the motor arrangement.

I’m pleased with it. I should have mentioned that I doubled up on the sheets for the base. I wanted a lot of weight on the bottom for stability.

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jjminch

15 posts in 313 days


#15 posted 08-12-2019 05:05 PM



That looks great, JJ. I may just “borrow” your idea whenever I find a bandsaw worth buying that fits my budget.

- cmacnaughton

I got this one for $275 which I thought was a decent deal for a US made tool.

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