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Re-finishing kitchen cabinets: changing color

2K views 24 replies 15 participants last post by  joabraun 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey all. I was wondering if it would be possible to paint/stain my kitchen cabinets to white. I know I could paint them generically but the paint would just chip/stick and look like crap after a short while. What I would like to know, is if there is a proper way to strip/sand or remove the finish and how I could go about getting them white while maintaining the durable finish they already have. The cabinets are finished with a product called Aqua Plaz conversion finish. The only thing I know about it is that it is crazy durable. Even my kids haven't been able to scratch them yet. If you were going to do this project, what would you do?
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
As much as a hardcore do-it-your-selfer that I am I think I would seriously consider hiring a professional painter for this. You might do some of the prep work yourself to save a little expense by taking the doors and drawers out.

An epoxy product would probably be the best coating to use. Rustoleum actually has a do it yourself "kit" for doing this. It contains a de-glosser, sort of a chemical sandpaper, that is applied first. I don't know if that would be adequate for the hard varnish finish you currently have. I have used it to prepare a baked on pre-finished metal door and it worked great.

I did a quick internet search and it appears that you can get a Conversion Varnish in color tints. This might be the way to go with regards to compatibility of your current finish and a new one. You may still need to prep the surface by sanding or de-glossing. If you do not feel up to spraying on a finish I would still get a professional.
 
#6 ·
I think rustoleum makes a product for painting cabinets but I have no experience with it. The house I own now had the cabinets sprayed with regular wall paint about 4-5 years ago. It's held up well. The previous owners had it done tho so I don't know what prep work went into it
 
#8 ·
We just painted our island with Valspar Cabinet Enamel paint.
It goes on with a brush, and is really streak free even for a hack painter like me. No need to sand or prime, just clean the cabinets well first. We used 3 coats and it turned out wonderfully. We only did it two weeks or so ago, so I can't speak to the long term durability yet, but first impression is a hard quality enamel finish… We're planning on doing the rest of the kitchen when it is warm enough to spray the doors outside.

Of note, I have a buddy who also just did his whole kitchen. They used standard latex and then did a poly over it to make it durable… Something his wife found on Pinterest… It looks great, and I'd imagine the poly would do the job. Can't see much of a downside on that.
 
#9 ·
Things like the styles and rails are easy and could be brushed and rolled with good results.

They don't get much abuse, so don't have to be bullet proof. As such, a good enamel should last years.

The doors need to be sprayed, for best results. The material you use would depend on how much you are willing to spend and how long you feel it needs to last.

I built mine and already had commercial sprayers, sooooo. If I have to do it again in a few years, Euro hinges pop off quickly. A quick 3-M scuff would prep them enough for the next round.
 
#10 ·
No need to sand

They used standard latex and then did a poly over it to make it durable
- BFamous
You are asking for trouble not sanding. Coatings basically work on 2 levels-mechanical and chemical bonding. By not sanding, you are down to chemical bond. Not many paints "bite" hard into a finish meant for kitchens. You may get lucky.

To get a standard white, using latex and poly is a poor choice. Hard finish over soft finish generally doesn't work well.
 
#14 ·
I've done several different methods, but without knowing your budget or what tools you have its kind of hard to say, ie do you have a sprayer and place to spray? Cheap methods, i used the rustoleum kit and was not impressed. Had better results using latex enamel with polycryic over them, and that worked great for my wife, who likes to change things every few years. Had even better results just using Benjamin Moore Advance paint. I mostly just use tsp to degloss, but find that it usually is best to scuff sand at least high traffic areas, such as around handles/knobs orr wherever someone may grab or a pan may hit etc.
 
#15 ·
+1 on the Benjamin Moore ADVANCE paint. If you've never used TSP you'll be amazed, I keep it under the sink at home and have supplies in many of my kitchens for special cleaning projects, it just melts adhered grease like water. I had to replace all of my doors and drawer fronts, with new ones built in the shop. I spent just under $100 for a can of the paint and a can of the recommended primer. It was a hot sticky summer so rather than spray I set up my basement and got a good finish using a short nap mini roller and good quality brush. I applied 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of the paint. Each coat required a good deal of sanding between decreasing in time and grits as the finishes became progressively smoother. Joey at Timberworks did a video that finally led me to the roller. It did take about 3 weeks to complete the task, and all of the woodworking was done in about 3 days. All in, reusing the hardware I did 7 drawer fronts and 29 doors for about $350
 
#16 ·
+2 on DIY My Kitchen looks like Jared_S'. Went white from maple and fixed twenty years of water damage. Even with buying an Earlex HVLP spraying and wasting paint it was cheaper and (I think) the result is better. I used Sherwin-Williams which had to be thinned with Penetrol. Definitely use TSP and hit it with 220grit. I sprayed primer and 2 coats on the doors and rolled the casework and shelves in place with a 3/8" nap roller. You almost can't see the difference.

Property Cabinetry Countertop Wood Kitchen


Plumbing fixture Window Rectangle Fixture Wood
 

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#19 ·
this goes back a ways, but in 2003, we bought a house that had really nice custom solid oak cabinets, but they were stained to near black and looked hideous. I wanted to throw them in the dumpster and just get new ones, but my wife insisted that she wanted to sand and refinish them. I told her she was nuts. I still think she's nuts, but she did it.

my only advice to her was to paint the coves in the doors and along the edges instead of trying to sand them, which she thankfully did. Two coats of paint in the coves and on the backs of the doors followed by three thin brush coats of poly, and they are still holding up great after 15 years of use.

Cabinetry Countertop Property Gas stove Kitchen appliance


This was an in-progress pic. after she was done (And she burnt out two palm sanders doing it) I hung a beadboard ceiling in white and crown molding at the top of the cabinets painted to match the coves.
 

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#22 ·
Thanks all. I have a sprayer so I plan on applying the paint that way. I prefer the way it lays out with a sprayer. I've never been very talented at getting a streak free coat with brushes. Do you all think I should take the cabinets off and spray in the garage or just tape up the kitchen and do the work in there? Seems like a huge pain to remove them but I would rather do it the right way if that is the best way.
 
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