LumberJocks

Toner or Glaze

  • Advertise with us

« back to Finishing forum

Forum topic by bilyo posted 02-21-2019 01:33 AM 167 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View bilyo's profile

bilyo

561 posts in 1400 days


02-21-2019 01:33 AM

I have stripped some old cabinet doors of their original factory finish. The wood is not something I recognize. It is rather oak like but I think it is something imported. In any case, the grain goes every which way and they are not very attractive for applying a typical clear finish. Also, there are a couple of doors that will not be stripped that I would like to match as closely as possible. It appears that they were finished with a colored “varnish” not stain. In order to achieve a close match I think I need to do that as well. I have never used Minwax polyshades. Any opinions on that? How about adding Transtint to poly or shellac. Anyone done this?


3 replies so far

View Rich's profile

Rich

4149 posts in 887 days


#1 posted 02-22-2019 06:55 AM

Photos would help.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2152 posts in 2287 days


#2 posted 02-22-2019 01:22 PM

Just about all factory furniture and cabs have the finish “on” the wood vs “in” the wood. Easier to control for substrate variation. As for toning, Most everything I do has toning of one type or another. Did my kitchen and bathrrom vanities 6-7 years ago by toning – oak with typical honey oak to a wine color – see if I can find pics.

I use Transtint for shellac, lacquer, or wb finishes, and wd lockwood oil based dyes for solvent poly. Hope you have spray equipment. I brushed the face frames and side panels but sprayed all doors and drawer fronts. I’ll dig up the finish schedule and post it, but used shellac and then Target em9000 topcoat, both toned with transtint.

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

561 posts in 1400 days


#3 posted 02-22-2019 02:39 PM



Just about all factory furniture and cabs have the finish “on” the wood vs “in” the wood. Easier to control for substrate variation. As for toning, Most everything I do has toning of one type or another. Did my kitchen and bathrrom vanities 6-7 years ago by toning – oak with typical honey oak to a wine color – see if I can find pics.

I use Transtint for shellac, lacquer, or wb finishes, and wd lockwood oil based dyes for solvent poly. Hope you have spray equipment. I brushed the face frames and side panels but sprayed all doors and drawer fronts. I’ll dig up the finish schedule and post it, but used shellac and then Target em9000 topcoat, both toned with transtint.

- OSU55


Good information. I’ll look forward to the details. I’ve tried a couple of staining methods; with and without a seal coat. Both look horrible. Sorry, I didn’t think to take photos. I found some garnet shellac flakes in the bottom of my drawer and have sprayed a couple of coats. Looks like it may be close to the right color. I’ll also try some transtint. Looks like the toner method will be the answer.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com