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Need Help Restoring a 1934 Band Saw

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Forum topic by Chris_Tx posted 02-19-2019 09:16 PM 349 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Chris_Tx

5 posts in 31 days


02-19-2019 09:16 PM

Hello there,
I am restoring my grandfathers Walker-Turner 16” band saw, that I believe dates from 1931-1934. every thing has come apart pretty well except for the bottom wheel/shaft assembly. I cannot get the wheel off of the shaft, and am afraid to apply to much force since I do not know how it attaches to the shaft. I have the whole shaft/wheel assembly free form the frame, including the bearings. If there is someone out there who has disassembled one of these maybe you could tell me how the lower wheel attaches to the shaft. Does it screw on, or is it just pressed on? Should I try hammering gently on the wheel while holding the shaft in a vice? Any help, or advice would be greatly appreciated
Thank you.


9 replies so far

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WayneC

14275 posts in 4397 days


#1 posted 02-19-2019 09:24 PM

You might try reaching out to Keith Rucker.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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wingless

26 posts in 42 days


#2 posted 02-19-2019 10:31 PM

Welcome to the forum.

Please post some images..

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MrUnix

7246 posts in 2499 days


#3 posted 02-19-2019 10:32 PM

Before anyone can help, you need to determine exactly what model machine you have – they made a few different 16” models. And your best resource for the restoration will most likely be the guys over at OWWM along with the documentation and other information found at the VintageMachinery site.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Phil32

461 posts in 203 days


#4 posted 02-19-2019 10:35 PM

I would guess that the lower wheel is attached to the shaft with a Woodruff key. After all these years it wouldn’t come off easily. You should track down some literature or breakdown drawings before any pounding.

-- Phil Allin - There are mountain climbers and people who talk about climbing mountains. The climbers have "selfies" at the summit!

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Chris_Tx

5 posts in 31 days


#5 posted 02-19-2019 11:57 PM

Hello again,
Here are some pictures showing both the wheel I an having trouble with as well as the pulley at the other end of the shaft. As you can see the pulley had a key and two set screws to keep it on, but i can not see anything on the wheel that would indicate how it is attached, except for the little notch in the second picture that could indicate a key, but there is no set screw above it. As to exactly what model, all I know is that it is a Walker-Turner, Driver series, 16” band saw. it does not have a model or serial number on it, which should indicate that it predates 1939 when they first started a serial number system. If any one knows how I can find some literature or breakdown drawings, I would be profoundly grateful. I will also try reaching out to Keith Rucker, and OWWM.
Thank you to every one trying to help me, I really appreciate it.

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Nick424

112 posts in 940 days


#6 posted 02-20-2019 12:20 AM

My guess would be a tapered shaft and like Phil said a woodruff key. I would try a three jaw puller, and a little heat if needed.

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wingless

26 posts in 42 days


#7 posted 02-20-2019 01:26 AM

Thanks for the images.

Pack the parts / joint in ice for hours. Get the shaft as cold as possible. During this time use your favorite stuck part lubricant.

Then rapidly / carefully heat the hub, but not the shaft, w/ MAPP gas. Be aware that the lubricant may ignite, so gloves to pat out the flame, or another method for controlling fire may be useful to have ready.

Once heated attempt removal again.

A knocker may also be helpful. Screw on a large part to protect the shaft end and threads, then whack that part. That method works great for removal of stuck huge boat propellers on tapered shafts.

A two jaw puller may be helpful for the removal. Do a preload of force prior to the heating and it might break free once the really cold part is rapidly heated.

Once the parts are free get different grits of lapping compound. Use movement of the wheel against the stationary shaft w/ lapping compound to polish the parts together to be a terrific match.

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splintergroup

2573 posts in 1522 days


#8 posted 02-20-2019 03:46 PM

The countersunk pilot hole in the shaft and clearance between the back of the wheel bearing are ideal for a split bearing puller set. These guarantee that the grip on the wheel is uniform and won’t slip off


Chances are you can borrow these for free from one of the big box auto parts stores.

If it doesn’t just pop off, tension it up then give the pulling screw a whack with a steel hammer. The shock virtually always does the trick.

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ChefHDAN

1330 posts in 3149 days


#9 posted 02-20-2019 04:57 PM

No advice to offer but damn how cool is that! Not just a vintage iron resto, but one of your g-paws tools too… that will be awesome!

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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