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Filling small defects before final finish coat

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Forum topic by Tstocks posted 02-16-2019 05:24 PM 364 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Tstocks

3 posts in 848 days


02-16-2019 05:24 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question finishing

I am building two large cabinets (8’ x 21” x 12”) and I’m about to put the final finish coat of pigmented lacquer on. There are some small defects that I want to repair before the final coat. The spackling compound does not stick inside the lacquered defects when sanded.
When I was young my father used something to fill the small defects before the final finish coat on some racing dinghies we built. I cannot remember the name of what he used.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what will work best?
Thanks in advance.

-- From: My Wild Ideas


5 replies so far

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therealSteveN

2234 posts in 877 days


#1 posted 02-16-2019 07:59 PM

A blast from the past is Durhams Rock Hard waterputty Sticks to a lot of surfaces, dried hard you can drill or route it. Not too sure about anything covering it real well except paint though. It’s dirt cheap, and you could finish a piece of scrap pine to where you are now, fill a gap with the Durhams, then continue on to see what you thought. I’m 64, and I seriously can’t remember being in a garage when I was a kid, and not seeing a can, everyone used it. Can is a little different, but same idea as the old ones.

Today it’s all about epoxy.

-- Think safe, be safe

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Tstocks

3 posts in 848 days


#2 posted 02-17-2019 12:12 PM

Thanks for the info. If I remember correctly the material was white and came in a 16 oz can, maybe from interlude. There was no mixing required. We were filling defects in a one part epoxy finish.

-- From: My Wild Ideas

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CaptainKlutz

956 posts in 1797 days


#3 posted 02-17-2019 01:00 PM

For pigmented top coat, why not use standard red glazing putty used in auto body shops for random pinholes? Walmart sells small tube for <$5. Most auto part stores carry it also. It is solvent based polyester filler, and dries in about 30 minutes. As long as defect is shallow, it works well on painted wood. I use on enamel primered MDF defects.

If defects are deeper than 1/32”, can also buy ultra-smooth glazing putty that requires use of catalyst. Comes in versions for metal/fiberglass/painted surfaces. My local auto paint supply sells Evercoat brand – Glaze Coat, but 3M and others make similar products. It’s not cheap, but filler is very small, leaving a smooth surface ready for paint.
http://www.evercoat.com/product-detail/part-number/100417/us/
http://www.evercoat.com/images/ePIM/original/704112-6.2011-Finishing-Putty-Brochure-DIGITAL.pdf

Best Luck.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

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Tstocks

3 posts in 848 days


#4 posted 02-17-2019 03:44 PM

Thank you for the information, I did a search on red glazing putty and found a nitrocellulose based red putty from 3M. It should work well with the nitrocellulose lacquer I’m using. I really appreciate the help.

-- From: My Wild Ideas

View Robert's profile

Robert

3318 posts in 1784 days


#5 posted 02-17-2019 05:21 PM

Yeah a lot of defects don’t show up till you get the final coat on.

One word: Bondo.

You’ll have to reprime after sanding but I’ve done it quite often with good results..

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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