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Installing Casters

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Forum topic by gdcarpenter posted 02-10-2019 06:10 PM 460 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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gdcarpenter

12 posts in 1068 days


02-10-2019 06:10 PM

Topic tags/keywords: casters wine bar question

Hi,

Looking for advise on installing casters on my current project. Bow off a 1957 Century Palomino wooden boat being converted to wine stand/bar. About 48” wide by 60” deep by 36” tall. Now think an extra 6” height would be good.

Bottom front legs are 1 3/4” X 1 3/4” and back leg is 4” X 4”. Ordered 3 of the following casters with threaded 1/2” X 13 X 1 1/2” long spindle and some ‘T-Nuts’ to match.


Suggestions from anyone that has done this?

Thinking, that since ‘T-Nuts’ are only about 7/16” deep, first drilling a 9/16” diameter hole 1/2” deep to accept ‘T-Nut’, then drilling another 1” deeper at 1/2” diameter to accept the longer spindle.


6 replies so far

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

1633 posts in 433 days


#1 posted 02-10-2019 09:12 PM

no idea on the castors.
but, hope you post some photos to your projects page
when it is all said and done. looks very interesting to say the least.

.

.

-- I started out with nothing in life ~ and still have most of it left.

View clin's profile

clin

990 posts in 1266 days


#2 posted 02-11-2019 12:17 AM

Seems fine though I’d just drill the hole 9/16” x 1” deep. I don’t see the point of stepping it down. My guess is you are thinking it might add some additional support to the spindle.

If you don’t think the T-nut itself will be enough and might tend to pull out when there are sideways loads, you could consider something other than a T-nut.

There are also T-nuts, but instead of the barbs, they have holes where you can place a screw.

I did some legs on a workbench that were oversized and I glued in a large nut into a hole. Bored a hole the diameter of the flats across the nut, than cut the corners with a chisel. In your case, it you could find extra-thick (long) nuts, so much the better.

Something like this, I found at Lowes. Also called a threaded coupler.

You could also consider just drilling and tapping the wood itself. Assuming the wood is a nice solid hardwood. Flood the threads with thin CA glue and then re-tap. The glue will harden the wooden threads.

I think I found the casters your using and you have a choice on the stem. The 1/2” x 1-1/2” would obviously be the most heavy duty. With a 1-1/2” length stem/spindle, I like the idea of threading straight into the wood or the threaded coupler. A full 1-1/2” provides a lot of support for the sideways loads.

In any case, looks cool. I’m with John, be sure to post the finished project.

-- Clin

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cowboyup3371

67 posts in 468 days


#3 posted 02-11-2019 03:36 AM

I started to use T-nuts in the legs of the new assembly and outfeed table I’m building with 5” wheels but after testing chose instead to use lag screws. I discovered the thread pitch of the Tee Nut and length of the screw would not withstand a hard enough hit against a fairly small object. Switching to a 3” lag screw shows the wheel will stay without a problem even after fairly sturdy hits.

-- Cowboy Up or Quit - If you are going to quit than get out of my way

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5364 posts in 3514 days


#4 posted 02-11-2019 09:06 PM

Don’t you think the camber on the deck might be too much for a bar top?

View gdcarpenter's profile

gdcarpenter

12 posts in 1068 days


#5 posted 02-11-2019 09:57 PM

Thanks for all the responses.

The base pieces are white oak, so fairly decent hardwood.

The thread coupler is an interesting idea. Looks like it would be about 3/4” across on the opposing flats. As my front feet are 1 3/4” X 1 3/4” that would leave about 1/2” thickness on all four sides, and chiseling to get them in might prove challenging. I am now thinking maybe installing the T-Nut with the secondary deeper bore being the thread root diameter and then tapping through the T-Nut down into the white oak as a sort of compromise. Will know more when the casters arrive, because I don’t think I would be able to replace the spindle with a lag screw. As a ‘furniture’ piece I don’t envision it getting beat up too much.

As for the deck camber, it is what it is, part of it being from a real boat. I will have a 6” deep shelf at the front, between the glasses and the wine rack, for opening and pouring. The wife seems to think she could lay out canapés on the deck.

Once again thanks for the responses and I do intend a finished follow up.

View builtinbkyn's profile

builtinbkyn

2805 posts in 1211 days


#6 posted 02-11-2019 11:40 PM

My thoughts are the t-nuts won’t support the cart well once weighted down with wine bottles and everything else that goes with it. Sure it will probably be ok just sitting there, but the wheels mean mobility. Once lateral forces are applied to get it moving, the t-nuts will not withstand the transfer of weight and will loosen and move, possibly breaking the wall of the hole where the bolt resides.

You would be better with threaded inserts, but even they aren’t the proper way to go about this. If I were doing it, I would counter bore holes and install washers and nuts on the wheel spindles. If you need to hide them, plug them. But I wouldn’t think it was necessary even for a finished look.

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

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