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Work Bench Smack Down (part 2)

120K views 3K replies 106 participants last post by  builtinbkyn 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This thread is a continuation of our original work bench smack down thread.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/31539

After 18428 replies to the original, we needed a fresh start.
 
#2 ·
First post. Looking like I need to build a bench this spring. Not sure if I'll do a Roubo or a shaker style. Should have all the wood needed for the base already, and debating what to do for the top.
 
#4 ·
I'm 2.5yrs into my workbench build - 2 kids, moving to a new house and finally acquired some decent panel saws and bits/brace to finish assembly. Glued up a 2×6 with a 2×4 section for the top and totally screwed up the gluing so now I need to level off the upwards warp. Started to hand plane the warp out and lost patience and have since decided to create a router sled.

I feel like I find multiple projects to do in the middle of the original project - such is life
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
What kind of hardware you going to use, Jmart?

Maybe I can stop by and give you a hand with the heavy lifting.

- Hammerthumb
Most likely the Lee Valley tail vise screws I had on my previous bench from my townhouse. Already have them. Might get a new handwheel for them, but we'll see. I'd like to have benchcrafted, but the budget won't be allowing that since I have a kid on the way.

Leg vise with the classic peg board, and a wagon vise.
 
#8 ·


My bench is a little different then what has been posted previously. This video provides a little overview.



I started by writing down my requirements for the bench,

-It must be rock solid
-It must work with my mitre saw
-It must look good without limiting capabilities

The only regret with the bench thus far is not having mobility as a requirement but this just means I have the opportunity to build a better version when I move so not a huge loss haha
 

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#10 ·
Gonna be a fun thread, lots of pics hopefully, and ideas.



My bench is a little different then what has been posted previously. This video provides a little overview.



I started by writing down my requirements for the bench,

-It must be rock solid
-It must work with my mitre saw
-It must look good without limiting capabilities

The only regret with the bench thus far is not having mobility as a requirement but this just means I have the opportunity to build a better version when I move so not a huge loss haha

- manberdo
I am leaning toward the "simple bench" for a number of reasons. The thing I would miss most with your style of bench is something to limit length of cut, for repetitive cuts. I recently had seen 2 videos that address this on a simple bench. I am leaning toward the second guys way of doing it.



 

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#13 ·
Not a "fine furniture" workbench but a good practical one:



customisation:





Made with recycled wood except the tool well, shelf and drawer.
It is a "Paul Sellers" workbench type.
I choose it because:
- the front apron is glued to the bench-top which makes a rigid "L" beam;
- the leg-frames are wedged in dado's in the aprons which guarantee no raking even if the legs were shrinking;
- it can be knocked down if moving (it was built in my backyard and then moved to the second floor of my house);
- there is an extensive set of video's showing how to build it.
 

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#2,666 ·
Not a "fine furniture" workbench but a good practical one:

View attachment 1089520

customisation:
View attachment 1089575

View attachment 1089635
View attachment 1089697

Made with recycled wood except the tool well, shelf and drawer.
It is a "Paul Sellers" workbench type.
I choose it because:
  • the front apron is glued to the bench-top which makes a rigid "L" beam;
  • the leg-frames are wedged in dado's in the aprons which guarantee no raking even if the legs were shrinking;
  • it can be knocked down if moving (it was built in my backyard and then moved to the second floor of my house);
  • there is an extensive set of video's showing how
I made a
Not a "fine furniture" workbench but a good practical one:

View attachment 1089520

customisation:
View attachment 1089575

View attachment 1089635
View attachment 1089697

Made with recycled wood except the tool well, shelf and drawer.
It is a "Paul Sellers" workbench type.
I choose it because:
  • the front apron is glued to the bench-top which makes a rigid "L" beam;
  • the leg-frames are wedged in dado's in the aprons which guarantee no raking even if the legs were shrinking;
  • it can be knocked down if moving (it was built in my backyard and then moved to the second floor of my house);
  • there is an extensive set of video's showing how to build it.
Dibs on first bench pic!!

View attachment 990197
Not a "fine furniture" workbench but a good practical one:

View attachment 1089520

customisation:
View attachment 1089575

View attachment 1089635
View attachment 1089697

Made with recycled wood except the tool well, shelf and drawer.
It is a "Paul Sellers" workbench type.
I choose it because:
  • the front apron is glued to the bench-top which makes a rigid "L" beam;
  • the leg-frames are wedged in dado's in the aprons which guarantee no raking even if the legs were shrinking;
  • it can be knocked down if moving (it was built in my backyard and then moved to the second floor of my house);
  • there is an extensive set of video's showing how to build it.
I made one of these but haven't added shelves or drawer. Use it all the time.
 
#14 ·
Very excited about this thread. My wife and I just bought a new house and will be moving into it in April and it has a bigger shop than what I had. A year or two ago I built a Nicholson style (my first REAL woodworking bench) and it has been in storage since this past May. It is Ok for most things but I want to build something that will allow me to do the handwork better, like a wagon vise or similar. I like the Euro style a lot but I also like the Roubo and the Moravian. I used pine for the whole first bench but on this build I was thinking of a hardwood top, 3" thick with pine legs and stretchers (for the sake of expense), about 72" long and 24" wide. I have never used one with a tool tray so I don't believe I will have one. Before Christmas I bought one of the Harbor Freight models to be able to work out of a bedroom of the house we are renting and it is alright for really light work but not for getting serious (not real sturdy), plus it is too short and not deep enough for my taste. I have scoured the site for info and researched all over the place and I really like the various things out here. I guess I would like one bench that does everything I have seen and I am afraid that when I build it will look like the Stanley 45 of benches :)
Keep the good stuff coming, there is a whole lot of great info here from a whole lot of great people
 
#15 ·
So i'm in the process of researching to build another bench, the first one was more of an assembly table with a vise on it. This time I am looking to do a SYP Roubo style bench and one of the parts that has me pondering so far is how to cut the joinery for the dovetails on the legs to attach to the top. Does anyone have a good tutorial or blog that shows the best way to go about cutting this?
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
Notw - one of the Schwarz books has a Roubo build from laminated SYP and he covers it. Basically, IIRC, you cut the joinery pieces individually then glue them together to create the DT/mortise joint. I was lazy on my build and skipped that and just went with M&Ts so I can't give you any better advice.
 
#18 ·
Anybody used the Hovarter hardware? I love my leg vise and the LV screw works perfectly well. But, it would be awfully nice to have QR mechanism. So, I'm considering retrofitting it with the Hovarter leg vise hardware. At $140, it ain't cheap but it ain't ridiculous either. Just curious if anyone has hands-on with the mechanism?
 
#20 ·
If you decide to use a leg vise, check out YouTube for devices which allow you to adjust the base of the vice without bending over to move a pin. There are some pretty spiffy ratchet type devices which seem to be variations of one found in "The Workbench Book". A leg vise stays in the same location most of the time, but occasionally there are projects which require frequent adjustment. If you can do that standing up, it makes the job so much easier.

On a personal note, I have used a bench with a tool well about 25 years ago. After about a year and a half, I got tired of CONSTANTLY cleaning sawdust, shavings and borings out of this area, which was ostensibly to hold tools. I wound up filling in that area with some oak and having one, flat solid surface. No more open dirt colectors for me. But this is my own personal hang-up. Some people like them.
 
#21 ·
For the time being grump, my leg vise has the traditional parallel guide and it suits me fine. In another decade or so, I may feel differently about all the bending but the scissor hardware can be retrofitted most any time. I do use mine at a lot of different positions and the only thing that is annoying is cranking the screw. I was considering just going to a double lead screw then someone showed me the Hovarter and really like the looks of that! I'm just a little leery of being an early adopter of fairly new hardware that is so different from the established…
 
#22 ·
New Bench plans. I like the idea of a new thread and hope it opens up the field of imagination. Like others on this thread I too am planning a new bench. Has anyone on this list used the HNT Gordon face vice?

I have a 35+ year old Tage Fridge bench with two worn out vices that need replacement. I also have an outfeed table, patterned after the Benchcrafted Classic Bench with a wooden leg vice screw, a built in router and the HNT Gordon end vice. It is a great bench, very versatile, but mostly use for planning & outfeed. I want the new bench to use for cutting and assembling joints. I have considered a number of front vice alternatives. I like my shoulder vice, but it's a lot of work to build and takes up a lot of space. No need to replicate the leg vice I already have. Various options for a twin screw but I'm resistant to either a chin drive or Holvarter, which could require more maintenance down the road. That brings me back to the HNT Gordon vice, which looks great but I sure would like to read about first hand experience.

Michael
 
#23 ·
Anybody used the Hovarter hardware? I love my leg vise and the LV screw works perfectly well. But, it would be awfully nice to have QR mechanism. So, I m considering retrofitting it with the Hovarter leg vise hardware. At $140, it ain t cheap but it ain t ridiculous either. Just curious if anyone has hands-on with the mechanism?

- HokieKen
Pretty sure woodcox has one of the face vises. I bought his Veritas twin screw because he was upgrading to the Hovarter.
 
#24 ·
I didn't know about the Hovarter hardware. I just checked it out and the wagon vise looks like just what the doctor ordered if I keep my current bench in operation, of course the whole bench only cost about that much except for the Eclipse 9" front vise that is on it
 
#25 ·
I have the Hovarter leg vise in my shop and I paired it with the chain kit I sell. It is awesome, I use it all the time and I heartily recommend it especially when paired with something that doesn't need the pin so you can utilize all the beauty of the quick release feature. I don't think it matters if it's the cross or the chain or one of about three other methods I know of.

Here is a link to a review I did on YouTube.



I'll be on the road all day tomorrow but I can post some pics when I get home.
Jim
 
#26 ·
I have the Hovarter wagon vise. A great retrofit if you have the length under the top for the shaft. I drilled into a leg for clearance, it can be cut to fit if need be too. My bench top has moved a little since I cut into it and now the dog block is too tight in the slot. I'll wait until next summer to see if it moves again before widening it. The mechanism works well and holds the work easily. There is one annoying thing I have noticed since the install. When you release the hub it needs the smallest tick back to get it unlocked. I can't say it happens every time and it is habitual now to feel it the dog move back before letting the hub handle go. Slight misalignment or lube issue? There are not a lot of reviews out there but I have seen a youtube video of an earlier mechanism having the same issue. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it or buy again. My face vise chop extends all the way to the left corner of the bench and I really like it there but, someday a leg vise may replace it.
 
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