Table saw cutting problem

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Forum topic by DetroitKP posted 01-19-2019 07:29 PM 780 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View DetroitKP's profile


2 posts in 731 days

01-19-2019 07:29 PM

Need help. The back/bottom end of my rip cuts are flaring out. The maple board flared out towards the fence. After replacing with new blade, triple checking miter, blade, and fence alignment, the walnut board was better but seemed to flare toward the waste piece. I’ve ordered, but haven’t yet installed, a zero clearance insert and some microjig mj splitters (I don’t have a riving knife). The saw is a dewalt 745. I’m guessing the issue is either a warped fence or bad technique. I sometimes use featherboard (placed before the blade) and microjig gripper (and sometimes just use a push stick). The above photos look to be rotated – as the gap is on the bottom. Thoughts?

6 replies so far

View steve104c's profile


52 posts in 2207 days

#1 posted 01-19-2019 09:09 PM

Try slightly moving the far end of you fence (out of square from the blade) to the right, just a hair. It should only take a very small adjustment. Then try a cut.

View Jack Rigg's profile

Jack Rigg

29 posts in 737 days

#2 posted 01-19-2019 09:24 PM

That saw isn’t really the best for precision work. If I had to use it, I would initially rip my parts an 1/8th to 3/16ths wide, that would allow the wood to relax a bit. Rip a second time to required width, if you have a planer or joiner, leave some to run through that to finished size.

Relieving a bit of the fence toward the rear, such as Steve mentioned above, is a common fix when out in the field and does help a bit. The issue you are having is typical of the jobsite type of saws, I have the exact same saw and the same issue daily with it, I measure that fence front and rear every cut, just the nature of the beast.

-- Jack https://Carterscreekrenovations.Com

View William Shelley's profile

William Shelley

609 posts in 2438 days

#3 posted 01-19-2019 11:55 PM

This can also happen if you let the piece wobble side-to-side as you’re finishing the cut. If your fence only extends 5-6 inches past the blade, and you’re ripping a 4-foot long piece of wood, it’s very easy to accidentally allow the wood to steer to the right (which kicks the left edge into the blade). This will result in what you’re seeing. Cabinet saws often have much longer fences so there’s more support for the workpiece past the blade.

-- Woodworking from an engineer's perspective

View firefighterontheside's profile


21320 posts in 2825 days

#4 posted 01-20-2019 12:07 AM

Do you have a splitter or riving knife that is a little out of alignment? Out of adjustment one way would push piece toward fence, while other way would push piece away from fence, especially at end of cut.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View DetroitKP's profile


2 posts in 731 days

#5 posted 01-20-2019 01:47 AM

Guys – thanks for all the feedback and tips! Will definitely try them and will let you know of any improvement. Glad to hear it might just be the saw – and not me!

View wuddoc's profile


359 posts in 4687 days

#6 posted 01-20-2019 06:27 AM

If the saw kerf expands or contracts during ripping it is caused by improper drying.
A prong test will help you determine if it is a stress problem in the wood.

If it is reverse case hardened then some of the suggestions from the prior LJ’s may help.
HF sells a moisture meter that allows you to check the moisture content of your lumber.

-- Wuddoc

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