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Flush Cut Saw Recommendations

7K views 34 replies 15 participants last post by  Bearcontrare 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Okay, I know this isn't an exciting tool but I need a new one so I'm reaching out the the LJ collective wisdom :)

I have a Crown flush cut saw and it's been okay but recently it hung up and I was a little over-zealous and buckled the blade. So now it has a permanent kink and is virtually useless. So it's time for a new one. I don't want to spend a ridiculous amount of money, I think $30 is probably my limit on this tool and I would think that would be more than sufficient.

I use the saw to trim dowels flush. Zero set is important because I don't want the surface marred. I may use it for other tasks occasionally but dowels are the main use. I also think that for this saw, one that cuts on the pull stroke makes the most sense. Especially since the one I have would still be in service if it cut on the pull rather than on the push.

I have one picked out on Amazon but thought "it would be kinda silly not to see if any of those LJs have a gem they can point me to!" So post em if ya got em!

Thanks folks :))
 
#3 ·
Thanks Rich. I looked at that one. I ruled it out because the one I have now has a partial back like that and it seems to get in the way. Lots of times while cutting dowels off, I would find myself hitting the edge of the board with the end of the spine. Not a huge problem but still a minor irritant I'd rather avoid.
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have a fatmax with the reversible blade, an older crown (I think) with a wood handle and a little Vaughan Bear Saw with the pistol type handle, the Vaughan gets used most often for the type of tasks you re talking about.

come on Dave P you have a reputation to uphold! I figured you had some fancy flush cutting saw that looks like a hand plane :)

- GrantA
I actually have that Vaughan bear saw and it does work great. However, I bought mine for construction work long ago, undercutting door frames for installing tile, etc. So the blade is pretty beat. I should order a new blade for it, because the handle is a comfortable angle. But mine does have light set to it.
 
#11 ·
Thanks guys. A lot more opinions than I really expected for a flush cut saw :)

I think the one Bondo linked is in the lead followed closely by the FatMax JRsgarage has. Both have teeth on both sides which is a plus and both are spineless, zero-set pull saws. I'll probably end up going with Bondo's for no real reason other than I like the wood handle better.

Grant, the handle on that Vaughan does look comfy but from what I can tell, it's not a zero-set tooth. For this saw, I think I actually prefer a symmetric handle too. Thanks for the link though :)

Dave P - Don't want to file any set off induction hardened teeth. You know I'm too lazy for that ;-)

SMP - That does look like the best saw of the bunch. But it's a little out of the price range I'd like to be in at $40. If it was something I used daily (or even monthly) I'd probably spring for it. Thanks for the recommendation!

LittleShaver - I've done that too but I prefer to be able to flush cut and just sand a little. Just seems a faster process for me. Different strokes… Thanks for the suggestion :)
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have a Japanese version with short handle similar to post above and Veritas double sided flush cut saw.

Japanese blade is too wide for small projects, so the Veritas gets used most for dowels/plugs. It is extremely flexible, bends almost too easy. Have a small ripple near handle on single side saw where I klutz'd a cut once. Still works, but have to remember to take my time ….
 
#13 ·
Thanks Captain. The Veritas does look nice but I don't know that it justifies the increased cost in this situation. Especially when shipping is factored in.
 
#16 ·
Thanks Rick. I am tempted by the narrow tapered blade on the Veritas. But, like I said, I just don't see the perceived advantages as justifying the price difference in this case. If I had been on the hunt when Lee Valley had their free shipping a few weeks ago, I'd be more tempted!
 
#17 ·
Good info Grant. Unfortunately, even .004" set is enough to dig in and give me trouble. I like the thinner plate the Japanese saws offer too. I think the one Bondo linked was .015" which is thin enough to leave a minimal kerf if I needed it to but still thick enough to not buckle since it cuts on the pull.
 
#19 ·
Kenny - here is one I ordered in October after kinking my good, high dollar saw.

Authentic Japanese Woodworking Flush Cut Trim Saw Flexible Blade - $17.99 on amazon. It is a little thicker than the one I bent so it's also more forgiving if you catch it.
 
#20 ·
Yeah… that's a little more involved than I need Grant ;-) Funny how the web page has the American flag in the header and all Japanese on the product photo :)

Great minds think alike Earl ;-p That's the same one I had in my Amazon cart before Bondo linked the one that's about the same but has teeth on both sides.
 
#23 ·
#24 ·
Thanks guys. A lot more opinions than I really expected for a flush cut saw :)

I think the one Bondo linked is in the lead followed closely by the FatMax JRsgarage has. Both have teeth on both sides which is a plus and both are spineless, zero-set pull saws. I ll probably end up going with Bondo s for no real reason other than I like the wood handle better.
If its as good as my Gyokucho razorsaw ryoba, then you can't go wrong! One thing on these that I learned the hard way( you probably already know but maybe help someone else reading this). Even though there is no set, they are so "bendy" that if you cut too close to the bend, the convex can still dig in a bit and mar the wood. So if I am doing something really fine I will still put a piece of frog tape down and cut on the flatter part away from the bend.
 
#25 ·
Looking through the hammers too some (a lot probably?) of them are assembled in the US with global components (Ti hammers under the Dalluge name have heads made in China with American Hickory handles). On the bear saws it says blades made in Japan, handle in China, assembled in America. They re trying at least!

- GrantA
Unfortunately, that's the case with most anything these days Grant. Depending on the industry, there are different guidelines for what qualifies something as "Made in the USA". In some cases, it simply means that parts are taken out of imported boxes and put together and repackaged as the final assembly. But, you're right, at least they are providing assembly jobs for a few Americans!
 
#26 ·
Very true SMP! I actually, whenever possible, like to hold the saw plate flush to the surface with the fingers of my left hand while getting the cut started with my right. That usually prevents me from digging in. Usually
 
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