Latex thru Capspray 9100 4 stage HVLP?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Finishing forum

Forum topic by irish620 posted 01-14-2019 05:59 PM 655 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View irish620's profile


51 posts in 2843 days

01-14-2019 05:59 PM

Recently replaced 10 interior doors inside my house and now I need to paint them. My current
setup is a 4 stage CAPSPRAY CS9100. I have thinned latex 10-20% in the past with varied results, none of which blew me away. I’ve never been able to fully atomize the paint to the point where it lays on completely smooth. I know HVLPs aren’t really meant to spray latex that well given the thick viscosity but I don’t really want to buy an airless sprayer.

I have a viscosity cup which has helped me a little bit and my largest tip/needle is a #4. I was thinking of buying a #5 or #6 tip but they aren’t cheap ($90) and I’m not sure if I’m traveling down a dead end road. I will be shooting Sherwin Williams Superpaint and it’s pretty thick material!

Anyone have advice to get my CAPSPRAY shooting latex properly or recommendations for an airless or maybe I should get a bigger compressor and the right gun? I’m swimming in all the options.

Thanks for your Help!


4 replies so far

View Joel_B's profile


359 posts in 1916 days

#1 posted 01-14-2019 07:39 PM

I recently bought a Fuji Mini-mite 3 to repaint my kitchen cabinets and new doors.
I struggled with the learning curve. I am spraying Target Emtech 6500 WB lacquer and that is what I would recommend for HVLP over latex. I have 1.3 and 1.8 mm tips. After experimenting I decided to go with 1.3 because I felt it produced a finer spray. Had some problems with runs on vertical cabinets. Talked to Fuji and they recommended I use the 1.8 tip and that it would actually atomize the paint better. I tried that I think it is better. Also I probably over thinned the paint because I did it in garage which was cold and then applied to the cabinets inside where it was warmer. I did one section which is about 25% of the kitchen and decided to hire a professional painter to finish it because I don’t have the time and I am not up to it physically and mentally. The WB lacquer looks pretty good but it does have a slight texture, it is not glass smooth like solvent lacquer. If you are going spray latex you might need a bigger tip like 2 mm. I would use the airless especially if you doing a large area, that is what the painter I hired is using. You could probably rent one. HVLP definitely takes patience, experience, trail and error and time to develop the necessary skills.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View Rich's profile


5001 posts in 1124 days

#2 posted 01-14-2019 10:00 PM

You don’t mention what you’re spraying, but I swore off latex for HVLP. Instead I prefer Sher-Wood CAB acrylic lacquer. You can get any color you want and it lays down flawlessly and dries to the touch in minutes allowing you to do a complete job in one day.

View irish620's profile


51 posts in 2843 days

#3 posted 01-14-2019 10:21 PM

For some reason it cut off my first line. Unfortunately I already have 5 gallons of the SW Superpaint, so CAB won’t be an option until next project. Good to know though thanks!

View Holbs's profile


2249 posts in 2564 days

#4 posted 01-15-2019 01:50 AM

“I decided not to use my woodworking Capspray 4 turbine HVLP sprayer to paint the shed. Opted for a dedicated paint sprayer and went with the Homeright HVLP sprayer. Did a great job, faster than a paint roller and used less paint.”

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics