Epoxy for a Table Top

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Forum topic by jdeefus posted 01-08-2019 07:35 PM 520 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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15 posts in 2180 days

01-08-2019 07:35 PM

Topic tags/keywords: epoxy table top knot hole

So I was able to snag a really nice piece of black walnut at an auction this weekend. It is perfect for a table top. It has a very nice knot hole near one end that I am going to fill with clear epoxy. Now, I’ve never done this before, so I’m hoping to get some advice here…

I’ve never worked with epoxy before. What types of epoxy have you used? I do not need or want to do the whole top with the epoxy, so can I put a high gloss polyurethane on top of that epoxy and have that hole not end up milky or distorted?

Looking forward to some help.

—Jdeefus, Canton, Ohio

-- Jdeefus, Canton, Ohio

5 replies so far

View Robert's profile


4051 posts in 2364 days

#1 posted 01-08-2019 08:03 PM

I usually use West Systems epoxy to fill cracks or knots. You want a thin material that will get into all the nooks and crannies.

You probably want to do this in stages if its more than 1” deep.

A heat gun or torch will eliminate any bubbles.

The epoxy can be tinted if desired. I generally just use painters acrylic.

You can put urethane on top no problem. Be sure epoxy has plenty of time to dry and off gas before applying.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View jonah's profile


2130 posts in 4182 days

#2 posted 01-08-2019 08:16 PM

I woudn’t spring for the west systems kit for just one job. I don’t recall it coming in small quantities – just giant bottles.

Any epoxy will work fine so long as it’s thin enough to get into the knot. Heating it might thin out an otherwise too thick epoxy. You won’t run into any issues sanding and finishing it in my experience. Just make sure you let it cure fully before you try to sand and finish it.

View Jim Deatsch's profile

Jim Deatsch

18 posts in 736 days

#3 posted 01-08-2019 10:01 PM


As it happens I have a lot of experience with a product called, generically, “polymer epoxy”. It is available from several vendors and is self leveling, self purging (of bubbles), and dries to a very nice and clear finish.

As I said, several vendors do the deed and I’ve had good luck with all the ones I’ve tried.

Amazon has several and you don’t have to mortgage the house.



-- It's 5 o'clock somewhere. Scott Kalitta

View jutsFL's profile


198 posts in 725 days

#4 posted 01-09-2019 01:14 AM

I fill knot voids all the time with plain old HF epoxy. Works perfect. Just follow the advise above – do it in steps if the void is very deep, use heat to release air bubbles, and let it fully cure before sanding, let it FULLY cure before sanding! Use something to apply it that you can control – so you dont get epoxy “outside the lines.” Fill the void just proud of the surface, and sand to level. The topcoat Will enhance the epoxy appearance, not muddle it, so dont sweat that part.
Dont use fast dry epoxy either, it tends to be yellow, while the slower cure stuff is more clear.

On a side note, I use iridescent mica to color mine if wanted… There are some REALLY EXPENSIVE options for this, but ive found the trick – plain jane makeup. Yup, Wal-Mart makeup isle, and a 5 buck tray of eyeshadows is perfect. Yeilds great results, and more options than you could try. When using this type of colorant powder – a LITTLE goes a LONG way.

Here is a quick example of the makeup coloring in epoxy – this was a quick repair for a chipped phone case.

-- I've quickly learned that being a woodworker isn't about making flawless work, rather it's fixing all the mistakes you made so that it appears flawless to others! Jay - FL

View jdeefus's profile


15 posts in 2180 days

#5 posted 01-09-2019 12:50 PM

Very good advice folks! Thank you very much. I’ve got a couple of other projects to get out of the way, and then I’m diving into this one. Your help is much appreciated.

-- Jdeefus, Canton, Ohio

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