LumberJocks

Biesenmeyer install on Ridgid 4512

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by paridgerunner posted 01-05-2019 03:29 AM 346 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View paridgerunner's profile

paridgerunner

14 posts in 79 days


01-05-2019 03:29 AM

Has anyone here installed a Biesenmeyer fence on a Ridgid 4512 table saw?

The instructions in the manual I found online don’t seem to be over complicated. It seems it may require drilling a few 1/4’ holes in the edge of the table if the existing ones don’t line up.

Just curious if these is any direct experience installing one on this saw.


4 replies so far

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

585 posts in 1761 days


#1 posted 01-05-2019 04:02 AM

Check out my one and only blog post.
http://lumberjocks.com/bigJohninvegas/blog
I did a biesemeyer fence and cast iron wings on my R4512
Really turned it into a good saw

-- John

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

585 posts in 1761 days


#2 posted 01-06-2019 02:55 AM

Not a very popular subject. I don’t think to many have upgraded our saw.
It was pretty easy.
For the front rail I used the holes that came with the rail. And two holes on the saw lined up. That made it really easy, and I used those two bolts to get it straight. The rest I drilled the cast iron to make it work. much easier to drill the cast iron than the rail.
The back of the saw has four tapped holes. there is no clearance for nuts and I had to drill the rail and was able to use three of the original bolts. If your rails are like mine there are plenty of holes to choose from.
Here are a couple of photos. excuse the mess. When I have my lathe set up the saw becomes a lathe accessory table.
This 1st photo is of the rear rail and shows the 3 original bolts.

Here is the front rail. Not much to see here.

Here is a link to the Pdf instructions. Just like the instructions show. I used a couple of pipe clamps to hold the rail. a double square to get the 2-27/32” It was a bit of a trick to get it straight. But once I did, I was lucky and had two holes lined up perfect. When you go to drill the rest, be careful to check for ribs in the cast iron before you start to drill.
https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn%3Aaaid%3Ascds%3AUS%3Af64f7584-4d71-4a10-9ba9-02af5061a92f

-- John

View paridgerunner's profile

paridgerunner

14 posts in 79 days


#3 posted 01-06-2019 06:22 PM

Thanks for the info. and pics.

One of my concerns was the ribs in the casting being in the way, bit it sounds like there are plenty of holes in the rails to avoid them.

I was just looking at my saw and it appears if I remove the back panel, it might allow access for nuts. If not, I have no issue drilling the rail.

I still haven’t’ decided if I want to drop the $$$ for a new fence, but I’m pretty confident now it would go on without any big issues.

Thanks…..

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

585 posts in 1761 days


#4 posted 01-06-2019 06:39 PM

Yes, plenty of holes in the rails. It was a shame that only 2 lined up with what was already in the saw,
But I was able to match a hole in the rail with a open spot on both the saw and the wings easy enough.
I bought my fence used, and had to buy hardware for it. I stayed with the counter sunk bolts so that the fence would fit into the groove ok.
You will find on the back of the saw that the factory rail uses nuts on the stamped wings. But the four bolts on the cast iron have no room for nuts, so it came from the factory threaded for the bolts. Since the fence does not touch the rear rail, I chose to use the factory bolts. And drilled the rail to fit them.
So if you remove the back panel, you would have to drill through the cast iron, and the orange metal case.
I never even considered doing that. So no idea if there is room to do it.
I felt it was easier to just use the holes that were there already. I also don’t have a counter sink that will handle the rail. So I decided not to by one for 4 holes. Doubt I would ever use it again.

-- John

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com