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Forum topic by Jack Lewis posted 12-26-2018 04:43 PM 1173 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jack Lewis

522 posts in 1636 days


12-26-2018 04:43 PM

Been contemplating the purchase of this type of push block system. I am so tired of replacing homemade one as the get cut up and they are not as safety sturdy as I want. I am asking for recommendations of what model and other info of how many is needed for TS sawing.
I have a question: How can “VERY” thin slices of stock be cut between fence and blade without damaging this push block itself?

-- "PLUMBER'S BUTT! Get over it, everybody has one"


24 replies so far

View jmos's profile

jmos

916 posts in 2928 days


#1 posted 12-26-2018 05:12 PM

I’ve got a pair of Grippers, and like them. They work well. I don’t use them all the time, but when I’m cutting narrower stock, they let me do cuts on the table saw I wouldn’t try otherwise.

If you go to the main Microjig page they have a good photograph showing the thinnest standard part of the block, which is about 1/4” think. Without cutting into the Gripper, that’s the thinnest cut you can make between the blade and the fence. You can certainly run the Gripper into the blade, it won’t hurt the blade, but it will make a cut in the Gripper. You can then use it repeatedly after that to make the same thinner cut.

For a plain pushblock the soft foam grout floats from the hardware store work great.

-- John

View Stevedore's profile

Stevedore

100 posts in 2583 days


#2 posted 12-26-2018 05:41 PM

I have a couple of them, & use them frequently. I bought the optional 1/8” leg, but I think you can get packages now that include it.

Through my own carelessness, I did saw through one of the legs once, but a replacement was easy to order. Better than sawing through my finger!

-- Steve, in Morris County, NJ

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mpounders

940 posts in 3453 days


#3 posted 12-26-2018 05:46 PM

I’m not sure that is possible, depending on what your definition of “Very” thin might be. “Thin” would have to be at least the width of the push block, to avoid damaging it. But the solution might be to use a thin ripping jig on the other side of the blade? I talking about one of the jigs that attaches to a mitre slot and has a bearing spaced the thickness of the slice from the blade. You do have to move the fence and material after each cut, so that the material butts up against the bearing, but it gives you repeatable thin slices without them being dangerously pinched between blade and fence.

-- Mike P., Arkansas, http://mikepounders.weebly.com

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Redoak49

4266 posts in 2547 days


#4 posted 12-26-2018 05:54 PM

I like mine and use them all the time. Yes, if you are not careful you will cut into it. I think they are much better than a push stick.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2213 posts in 1161 days


#5 posted 12-26-2018 05:55 PM


But the solution might be to use a thin ripping jig on the other side of the blade? I talking about one of the jigs that attaches to a mitre slot and has a bearing spaced the thickness of the slice from the blade.
- mpounders

I have a gripper with the 1/8” leg and love it but for very thin repeatable slices the jig is the way to go and can be made from scrap. I use mine all the time.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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mpounders

940 posts in 3453 days


#6 posted 12-26-2018 05:59 PM

here’s another link .

-- Mike P., Arkansas, http://mikepounders.weebly.com

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Rich

5001 posts in 1147 days


#7 posted 12-26-2018 06:06 PM

We beat this topic to death last year. As often happens on LJ, it spiraled downward into a useless garbled mess. It did inspire me at the time to do a blog post about my method for cutting the thin strips I turn into chopsticks. My requirement not only involves cutting hundreds of pieces, but they must be very precise down to a few thousandths of an inch.

It’s also MicroJig based, so it’s appropriate for this thread.

View Charlie H.'s profile

Charlie H.

393 posts in 1208 days


#8 posted 12-27-2018 03:08 AM

Middle of 2017 I went all in and bought the supreme package.
If I were buying today (knowing how I have used the set) I would buy the deluxe package.
https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-100-DELUXE-PACKAGE-PLUS/dp/B014RC96R4/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1545879615&sr=1-12&keywords=grr-ripper+3d+pushblock
I will not use the rip fence without these, that’s how much I like them.
Any push block that is used to make through cuts is going to get chewed up from time to time, that’s just the way it is.

-- Regards, Charlie in Rowlett, TX --------I talk to myself, because sometimes I need expert advice.---------

View Woodbum's profile

Woodbum

898 posts in 3623 days


#9 posted 12-27-2018 12:57 PM

Best push block system available. Get one or more, you will not be disappointed

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

View Robert's profile

Robert

3569 posts in 2039 days


#10 posted 12-27-2018 02:49 PM

I’m sure its a good tool, but I’ve just never seen the need to spend $50 for a push block.

Why is it cupping? Check your design maybe.

I make mine of a 2×4, drill an angled hole for 1” dowel, and glue on a 1/8” thick shoe.

I make 3 or 4 at a time. When they get chewed up, toss it and grab another.

I figure for 50 bucks I can make enough push blocks to last me another 30 years.

Works for me…................;-)

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6677 posts in 1270 days


#11 posted 12-27-2018 04:37 PM

I dont trust nothing that does NOT have a heal on it

this is my push block I have control of my pieces top side push works better then any expensive push block IMO of course :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View Joe Bigham's profile

Joe Bigham

10 posts in 344 days


#12 posted 12-27-2018 07:22 PM

Jack, What issues is the homemade one giving you to not feel safe?

I was planning on making a few of these http://lumberjocks.com/projects/90560

is this the same you currently use?

View Julian's profile

Julian

1497 posts in 3248 days


#13 posted 12-27-2018 07:50 PM

I have one microjig push block that I received when I purchased my table saw. I prefer using my homemade push sticks because I like having a heel that will ensure the wood cannot slip. I can’t see paying $60 or more for a push stick/block. Just my personal preference.

-- Julian

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2213 posts in 1161 days


#14 posted 12-27-2018 08:54 PM

I know it (the grrrrrrripr) may seem spendy but it’s part of my “no more kickback” regimen. I got hit with 2 kickbacks (in my gut luckily and not my face) in a 2 month period and it scared the s**t out of me. One time I had forgotten to replace the riving knife after using a dado set. Not only am I now SUPER careful and attentive but I went out and bought Jessem Stock Guides. So, when you talk about $ I guess I spent $300 on the grpr and the guides for safety and piece of mind. The wide footprint of the grpr and the drop down foot are very comforting as I reach over the blade to complete the cut. It also insures that I can keep the stock tight against the fence. I know people say they never use a knife and I see vids that make me cringe with folks cutting 3” wide boards with no push stick but to each his own. It just takes so long for fingers to grow back.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View fivecodys's profile

fivecodys

1530 posts in 2194 days


#15 posted 12-27-2018 09:16 PM

I received one for Christmas this year along with a new Shark Guard. Looking forward to using both.

-- When you leave your shop for the night, make sure you can always count to 10.

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