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Forum topic by jtp79 posted 12-18-2018 02:08 AM 1023 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jtp79

51 posts in 988 days


12-18-2018 02:08 AM

Well guys this beast made it back to white county Tennessee Saturday night. Turned into about a 12 hour round trip and it rained for 11 and a half of it. I have the rest of the day off work because I just left the doctor with lower back strained muscles. Probably from moving the top of the saw and then slipped and fell on muddy concrete later.

With some tlc and a good cleaning this saw is in great shape. I know I am gonna have to sand the top down but thinking I may just clean up and buff and wax the cabinet. What would you guys do? The jig on top of the thing was for cutting 4 by 4 for wood furniture. The saw blade has chainsaw teeth on it. Lol. All the handles still spin smoothly. I got a diamond in the rough I believe. I gave 200 hundred for the saw. I believe I am going to have to buy a new fence because this one is rough as a Cobb and missing some parts. The rails seem to be fine but could probably use a fresh coat of paint. Gonna include some pics. Any questions just asks. I’m ready to get this bad boy up and running and into the shop. May restore it, may not but will replace bearings and do maintainence.

I’ve got to figure out whether to change the motor. Build a rotary converter or buy a vfd. What do you suggest? I am not even sure what the Biesemeyer guard is.


20 replies so far

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3385 posts in 1028 days


#1 posted 12-18-2018 08:35 AM

I had been a 66 owner most of my TS life, until I picked up a General 350. Yours looks rough, but a lot of that is just elbow grease. You’ll be happy once it’s all done and running. Right now is the time to do ANYTHING you may want to do, before it’s in service. So if you like the looks, go for it, if not strip and paint from the ground up.

Can’t help with 3 phase. I always stayed away from them due to the need of something beyond a household connection to run them. I guess I’m a KISS kinda guy, especially when it comes to electric.

About the only real tip I will offer is after using DW40 and the like for a lot of years. I’ve found that while costing more that Kroil kicks buttocks when it comes to loosening stuck parts, and cleaning up gobs of rusty junk.

-- Think safe, be safe

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EdDantes

74 posts in 365 days


#2 posted 12-18-2018 12:45 PM

Awesome score. Congrats. Getting it so cheap seemingly leaves you a nice budget to get it back in shape.

I’d offer that I would go at the top with a cup wire brush first to take of the heavy stuff, then 3M pads either by hand or on a ROS with WD40. Of course, I’d also be tempted to find a machine shop that would resurface it.

For the fence head, take a look at the Very Super Cool Tools fence.

No experience on the VFD vs. rotary, though the common advice posted here seems to be “VFD”.

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EdDantes

74 posts in 365 days


#3 posted 12-18-2018 12:49 PM

Awesome score. Congrats. Getting it so cheap seemingly leaves you a nice budget to get it back in shape.

I’d offer that I would go at the top with a cup wire brush first to take of the heavy stuff, then 3M pads either by hand or on a ROS with WD40. Of course, I’d also be tempted to find a machine shop that would resurface it.

For the fence head, take a look at the Very Super Cool Tools fence.

No experience on the VFD vs. rotary, though the common advice posted here seems to be “VFD”.

View hkmiller's profile

hkmiller

148 posts in 536 days


#4 posted 12-18-2018 01:23 PM

Looks like a great project. Did similar with my unisaw I also paid 200.00 for.

.

-- always something

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jtp79

51 posts in 988 days


#5 posted 12-18-2018 02:03 PM

Someone mentioned that replacement parts are available for the fence but im not which model the fence is. Also not sure where to look at buying the parts.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10426 posts in 1593 days


#6 posted 12-18-2018 03:08 PM

I’d go with a VFD to run the motor off 1 phase 230V.

Great score!

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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jtp79

51 posts in 988 days


#7 posted 12-18-2018 03:56 PM

Looks like the top is going to clean up pretty well. Not sure if I should completely restore the cabinet as far as paining or if I should just buff what is there.

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jtp79

51 posts in 988 days


#8 posted 12-19-2018 01:40 AM

Well I’ve started tearing this thing apart and worked on the top a little today. Should I paint the guts of the machine or just clean them up? Also the cabinet is not in terrible shape. What is more desirable? An all original saw or a restored one? Also does anyone know what model fence this is?

I thought about changing bearings and not restoring. What do you think?

View JCamp's profile

JCamp

996 posts in 1005 days


#9 posted 12-19-2018 03:06 AM

Good find and I’m enjoying the progress pics.
“Desirable” only matters if you intend to sell it. Other than that it only really matters what you want to do with it.
If you replace everything now since you already have it apart hopefully you’ll never have to take it all apart again so to me I’d recommend replacing all the easy to find bearings and go to Napa and have some paint mixed up to match the factory color and repaint the outside and just clean the inside parts…... but that’s me.

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

View EdDantes's profile

EdDantes

74 posts in 365 days


#10 posted 12-19-2018 03:29 AM

That fence looks like an early model Biesemeyer based on the tan/cream coloring. The model numbers were based on fence length and rail length, but I believe it all used the same fence head. Take a look here: Biesemeyer catalogs

It looks to be in rough shape, but you should be able to get it cleaned up. Refacing and adding some UHMW tape is easy. If the locking cam isn’t working, that may take a bit more effort to find/make a replacement. But still worth a try I’d think.

View BobHall's profile

BobHall

65 posts in 1739 days


#11 posted 12-19-2018 03:43 AM

Great deal on a great saw. My suggestion is in line with what has been said.
Clean everything and paint if you want but some of my old machines that still had most of their paint look good with just a wet sanding and car wax. I never worry too much about resale if it makes me happy. Replace belts, bearings and cord ( make sure you have a good safe ground system) even if they don’t seem too bad. It’s easier now than later. I’d clean , paint and lube that fence and try to save it even it requires a custom made part or two. A VFD is nice and many also provide motor braking at shutoff, but they get real pricy at higher horse powers. Also note that a rotary phase converter will serve all the other three phase machines that you will soon buy

-- Bob "jack of all trades, master of none"

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3385 posts in 1028 days


#12 posted 12-19-2018 04:37 AM

Hand tool guys may find buyers who want it to look used with plenty of “patina” which is often a code word for grime, rust, and rot. I can’t speak for everyone, but I flipped tools a lot of years, and all the buyers I met wanted it #1 to run, and beyond that I do know the spic and span tools sold reallllly fast.

I would always suggest cleaning away the years, then it looks new, but people will know it was made when tools were a holy thing, not throw away stuff. You will be using a tool that works like new, and when you sell you will get top dollar, and sell fast.

-- Think safe, be safe

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jtp79

51 posts in 988 days


#13 posted 12-30-2018 02:07 AM

I decided to go all the way through the saw. Repainting everything and changing all the bearings. https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/pkj1vmn.jpg!

ujo.jpg!

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jtp79

51 posts in 988 days


#14 posted 12-31-2018 03:56 PM



I decided to go all the way through the saw. Repainting everything and changing all the bearings. https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/pkj1vmn.jpg!

ujo.jpg!

Have no idea why pics didn’t load.

- jtp79


View Turns4wood's profile

Turns4wood

51 posts in 236 days


#15 posted 01-02-2019 04:17 AM

Had / have a South Bend 9 machine lathe that I did a total make over should last for 50 – 75 years before it need tore apart you did the right thing can’t wait to see it all as one unit. Are you going to get a converter for it

-- Nothing better than sawdust on the floor

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