LumberJocks

Bandsaw Buzz

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by skatefriday posted 12-17-2018 02:23 AM 493 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View skatefriday's profile

skatefriday

452 posts in 1905 days


12-17-2018 02:23 AM

I acquired a relatively old Jet 18” bandsaw. It had been used a couple dozen times and then sat in a garage for 15 years. Took it mostly apart to clean and tune. The tires have cracks on the sides. The blade and tires had pitch spots. Cleaned all that. Cleaned the bearings. All are free rotating. However when running the saw there a distinct buzz when running the saw from the blade hitting the guide bearings.

I took the bearings off entirely and the buzz went away. Put the bottom ones on, no buzz. Put the top ones on buzz. I have confirmed that the thrust bearing is off the blade, as are the side bearings.

This is my first bandsaw that weighs over 15 pounds not made by craftsman. Is this normal? Considering replacing the tires, but the crown of the tires is relatively intact as compared to the outer edges, and I have the gullet of the blade aligned with the crown as most research indicates is proper. Also have verified tension as best I could. It is currently tensioned a bit above to 3/4” mark in the video below.

Any suggestions for what to do next?

Thanks: Video demonstrating buzz: https://youtu.be/iLsPagZJAUE


10 replies so far

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2321 posts in 2220 days


#1 posted 12-17-2018 03:00 AM

I watched the video two things come to mind. The saw is haunted or the bearings that are making the noise are cheap and dry.
As far as the buzz goes has the saw been staying out late and sneaking back in at sunrise? :)

-- Aj

View Steve's profile

Steve

1360 posts in 1005 days


#2 posted 12-17-2018 03:18 AM

Yeah, I bet the little ball bearings inside one of the bearings are the culprit. I’d order a completely new set of all the bearings while you’re at it.

View skatefriday's profile

skatefriday

452 posts in 1905 days


#3 posted 12-17-2018 04:06 AM

Thanks all.

Do you pinch the blade between the upper and lower bearings? I have it set such that the bearings are about 1/32” off the blade. When running I don’t think the bearings are moving.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2321 posts in 2220 days


#4 posted 12-17-2018 04:27 AM

On my pm 14 I set the bearings very close to the blade. But they don’t turn when the saw is running when I start cutting they will start to turn a little because dust builds up or pitch on the blade. If they start screaming I back them a touch even with the saw running.
I also removed the lower side bearing I found they don’t do squat but get covered with dust and pitch. The rear bearing are the most important you want the blade to contact both at the same time. On my saw this makes the most difference and good straight welded blade and the rear thrust bearings contacting at the same time.
Good luck

-- Aj

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10858 posts in 1909 days


#5 posted 12-17-2018 04:28 AM

Ideally, the bearings don’t move until you apply the slightest of pressure from the front or sides.

And I’d change bearings, especially guides, on any equipment that I don’t buy brand new.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Robert's profile

Robert

3441 posts in 1903 days


#6 posted 12-17-2018 02:02 PM

Same thing happened to mine I narrowed it down to two bearings that were pretty much seized.

Cheap enough I would just replace them all.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View jonah's profile

jonah

2075 posts in 3721 days


#7 posted 12-17-2018 04:35 PM

As mentioned above, bearings (even good ones) are so cheap I’d replace them all. Since bandsaw guide bearing are never under any real load, I’d just go with cheap ones. Figure out what kind they are, order a pack of 10 or something, and replace them all.

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

746 posts in 1525 days


#8 posted 12-17-2018 05:55 PM

Check to make sure that the guide bearings are not riding against the side of the blade teeth. They should be adjusted so that they ride against the side of the blade just behind the tooth gullets. And, make sure that the rear bearing is close enough to the back edge to keep it in that position when cutting pressure is applied.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1932 posts in 1026 days


#9 posted 12-17-2018 07:05 PM

I use the dollar bill trick for space between the blade and guides. Push the guides together with a bill between the blade and guides then tighten. Not very scientific but it works for me.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View skatefriday's profile

skatefriday

452 posts in 1905 days


#10 posted 12-22-2018 04:26 AM

Following up for documentation purposes. New tires, new drive belt, and a new blade have vastly reduced the buzz. The saw had sat, tensioned, in a garage for 10+ years. I think the largest contributor was the drive belt as it had established “memory” and was causing the entire saw to shake. The tires came off in pieces about 1/4” square. New urethane was tough to get on, but looks pretty once set. Saw runs much quieter now.

Thanks all.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com