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Forum topic by Sanderguy777 posted 12-14-2018 09:25 PM 759 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1656 days


12-14-2018 09:25 PM

Topic tags/keywords: hand plane rust removal painting metal stripping paint resource question

Hi guys, I’m working to restore my hand planes. I moved back to the states from Tonga and my planes sat in a basement over a winter or two. There was a flood in the basement and the box they were in (cardboard, still packed for the move) was in 2 inches of water and I didn’t know till like 4 months later. Now the tropics rust things, but basement water makes the cardboard part of the rust that sticks to them!

So, during this finals week I’m trying to get the metal at least defrosted and protected b4 a family trip to Oregon in like 1 week.

I tried Rustoleum rust dissolver gel with not good results. So I am trying a different product called metal saver (I think. From home depot) it is a soak vs the gel was sprayed on. So no time limits really.

So. I am wondering if you know a good way of stripping the paint off the plane before I paint it myself (not airplane stripper. Too caustic for me)
And maybe some good colorful rust free paints I could use (thinking about Rustoleum rust stop).

Also, the rust remover I’m using says it need to be coated in order to not rerust, is there a product that is paintable that I could coat it with? Or should I just oil it right away and then after our trip, use Hoppe’s Gun Bore Solvent to take off the oil b4 painting.

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?


22 replies so far

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1656 days


#1 posted 12-14-2018 09:31 PM

Bear in mind, I have no experience with any of this, and the weather here is 40s to 50s and damp, so painting is not to the instructions’ “70° and sunny, but not in direct sunlight”

Also, I want paint that DRIES. If it needs an extra couple days, or a trip to an oven, fine. But I HATE tacky paint! Especially when it costs 9 or so bucks a quart and has had 6 months or during time.

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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Don W

19295 posts in 3021 days


#2 posted 12-14-2018 09:31 PM

http://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/26/bench-plane-restoration-guide-part-1/

Some pictures would help us give accurate advise

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1656 days


#3 posted 12-14-2018 10:32 PM

First is sanded to about 800 or 1000 grit

Second is after the gel stuff. Slight surface rust after being thoroughly dried and set for only a week.

Last 2 are craftsman #5. That’s the one with cardboard embedded in the rust. The sole was scrubbed with a wire brush but still bad.

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1656 days


#4 posted 12-14-2018 10:34 PM

The first 2 images are not the same iron and chipper. 1st is #4. Second is from the #5.
The gel did take some rust off. But it defeated its purpose by not keeping it away.

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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Don W

19295 posts in 3021 days


#5 posted 12-14-2018 10:42 PM

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Don W

19295 posts in 3021 days


#6 posted 12-14-2018 10:43 PM

Wire wheel them

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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fivecodys

1457 posts in 2090 days


#7 posted 12-14-2018 10:45 PM

I have been using Evaporust from Harbor Freight and it works well for me. They usually have a 20% off coupon.
I have a couple of little troughs I soak them in.
I have used citrus based strippers on the planes that had most of the japanning missing. I follow that up with a wire brush and wire wheel.

Watch out. This is the most addicting thing I have ever gotten involved with. I already have several planes waiting in the wings for a restoration as soon as all the Christmas presents are finished.

Have fun!

-- When you leave your shop for the night, make sure you can always count to 10.

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1656 days


#8 posted 12-16-2018 08:17 AM

This IS very addictive!
So I have decided to repaint the planes. The japanning is worn and missing in spots.

Will Rustoleum stops rust or pro work? It looks pretty good and is available in my area for half the cost of the duplicolor. (It is not engine enamal so not hard)

Is there a specific reason you chose duplicolor instead of something else?
Also, with any of these paints, is primer needed?

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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Don W

19295 posts in 3021 days


#9 posted 12-16-2018 11:34 AM

Duplicolor matches the original japanning in color and texture closer than most other paints. If matching that is not a concern, Rust-Oleum will work just fine.

The other advantage to duplicolor is the quick recoat time.

Any good quality paint properly applied will work. It doesn’t even need to be black if the mood strikes.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1656 days


#10 posted 12-16-2018 03:48 PM

Thank you. Right now the mone is a real concern unfortunately.

How many coats do you think I need?

Also, do you think spray is a better way to go than a can of paint? ( I thought controlling a brush would be easier than a spray pattern, but I might put it on too heavy with the brush)

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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OSU55

2381 posts in 2443 days


#11 posted 12-16-2018 04:54 PM

You want to strip them – use the airplane stripper and learn to deal with it properly, or you can continue screwing around with the lightweight stuff and waste time and $.

While I use wire wheels for the heavier rust, I like soaking in Evaporust because it gets everywhere – important if repainting.

Since you are going to the trouble of stripping, you want the paint job to look good – tape off the surfaces and spray them. If You go to the trouble to strip and tape off, you want a tough paint – Use oil based enamel implement paint. Can take a while to cure out but its the toughest stuff I know of in a rattle can.

After painting cover all surfaces with Alox. Great rust preventive. Use paste wax not oil to lube threads and pivot points, as well as the sole. Keeps dust away.

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Don W

19295 posts in 3021 days


#12 posted 12-16-2018 10:00 PM

Definitely spray, and 5 or 6 Coates.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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poopiekat

4499 posts in 4188 days


#13 posted 12-16-2018 10:27 PM

I’m a big proponent of sandblasting, using the finer of the two grits of crushed glass available in discount stores.

I prefer to use brush-on Alkyd enamel. I usually use automotive spot putty first if the cast iron surface is rough, then sand with #220. I’ve also used heavy-bodied sandable primer followed up with steel wool ‘til the surface is super smooth.

Alkyd dries slower than other oil-based enamels but it flows out without brush streaks. Two coats will do it.

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

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TheFridge

10859 posts in 1940 days


#14 posted 12-16-2018 10:29 PM

When I don’t strip it, I at least wire wheel the hell out of what’s left of the japanning to break the edges of it.

A wire wheel on a bench grinder does 90% of the rust removing for me. I only use a rust remover if I want almost every speck of rust off.

After the bath, wash with water, dry it, and wax it or whatever you prefer. I always put a drop of 3in1 oil in/on all threaded parts of the plane.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1656 days


#15 posted 12-17-2018 01:58 AM

I think I’ll just bite the bullet and get duplicolor since I have to get a diamond stone from Amazon anyway.

Since I brought that up, is the trend 2 sided stone better than dmt duos? I have a 6000 grit wetstone, but I want a coarser diamond stone or set that can work fast without becoming unflat.
Budget is <110 for both 300ish and 1000ish grits. 8inch stone preferred, but wide 6 inch stone that are good quality would work too.

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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