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Of rust, priming, and painting hand planes

5K views 52 replies 14 participants last post by  Smitty_Cabinetshop 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi guys, I'm working to restore my hand planes. I moved back to the states from Tonga and my planes sat in a basement over a winter or two. There was a flood in the basement and the box they were in (cardboard, still packed for the move) was in 2 inches of water and I didn't know till like 4 months later. Now the tropics rust things, but basement water makes the cardboard part of the rust that sticks to them!

So, during this finals week I'm trying to get the metal at least defrosted and protected b4 a family trip to Oregon in like 1 week.

I tried Rustoleum rust dissolver gel with not good results. So I am trying a different product called metal saver (I think. From home depot) it is a soak vs the gel was sprayed on. So no time limits really.

So. I am wondering if you know a good way of stripping the paint off the plane before I paint it myself (not airplane stripper. Too caustic for me)
And maybe some good colorful rust free paints I could use (thinking about Rustoleum rust stop).

Also, the rust remover I'm using says it need to be coated in order to not rerust, is there a product that is paintable that I could coat it with? Or should I just oil it right away and then after our trip, use Hoppe's Gun Bore Solvent to take off the oil b4 painting.
 
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#2 ·
Bear in mind, I have no experience with any of this, and the weather here is 40s to 50s and damp, so painting is not to the instructions' "70° and sunny, but not in direct sunlight"

Also, I want paint that DRIES. If it needs an extra couple days, or a trip to an oven, fine. But I HATE tacky paint! Especially when it costs 9 or so bucks a quart and has had 6 months or during time.
 
#4 ·
Finger Nail Carmine Human leg Wrist


Gesture Wood Hand tool Auto part Plastic


Wood Hand tool Tool Bumper Wood stain


Hand tool Finger Bumper Crankset Tool


First is sanded to about 800 or 1000 grit

Second is after the gel stuff. Slight surface rust after being thoroughly dried and set for only a week.

Last 2 are craftsman #5. That's the one with cardboard embedded in the rust. The sole was scrubbed with a wire brush but still bad.
 

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#5 ·
The first 2 images are not the same iron and chipper. 1st is #4. Second is from the #5.
The gel did take some rust off. But it defeated its purpose by not keeping it away.
 
#8 ·
I have been using Evaporust from Harbor Freight and it works well for me. They usually have a 20% off coupon.
I have a couple of little troughs I soak them in.
I have used citrus based strippers on the planes that had most of the japanning missing. I follow that up with a wire brush and wire wheel.

Watch out. This is the most addicting thing I have ever gotten involved with. I already have several planes waiting in the wings for a restoration as soon as all the Christmas presents are finished.

Have fun!
 
#9 ·
This IS very addictive!
So I have decided to repaint the planes. The japanning is worn and missing in spots.

Will Rustoleum stops rust or pro work? It looks pretty good and is available in my area for half the cost of the duplicolor. (It is not engine enamal so not hard)

Is there a specific reason you chose duplicolor instead of something else?
Also, with any of these paints, is primer needed?
 
#10 ·
Duplicolor matches the original japanning in color and texture closer than most other paints. If matching that is not a concern, Rust-Oleum will work just fine.

The other advantage to duplicolor is the quick recoat time.

Any good quality paint properly applied will work. It doesn't even need to be black if the mood strikes.
 
#11 ·
Thank you. Right now the mone is a real concern unfortunately.

How many coats do you think I need?

Also, do you think spray is a better way to go than a can of paint? ( I thought controlling a brush would be easier than a spray pattern, but I might put it on too heavy with the brush)
 
#12 ·
You want to strip them - use the airplane stripper and learn to deal with it properly, or you can continue screwing around with the lightweight stuff and waste time and $.

While I use wire wheels for the heavier rust, I like soaking in Evaporust because it gets everywhere - important if repainting.

Since you are going to the trouble of stripping, you want the paint job to look good - tape off the surfaces and spray them. If You go to the trouble to strip and tape off, you want a tough paint - Use oil based enamel implement paint. Can take a while to cure out but its the toughest stuff I know of in a rattle can.

After painting cover all surfaces with Alox. Great rust preventive. Use paste wax not oil to lube threads and pivot points, as well as the sole. Keeps dust away.
 
#14 ·
I'm a big proponent of sandblasting, using the finer of the two grits of crushed glass available in discount stores.

I prefer to use brush-on Alkyd enamel. I usually use automotive spot putty first if the cast iron surface is rough, then sand with #220. I've also used heavy-bodied sandable primer followed up with steel wool 'til the surface is super smooth.

Alkyd dries slower than other oil-based enamels but it flows out without brush streaks. Two coats will do it.
 
#15 ·
When I don't strip it, I at least wire wheel the hell out of what's left of the japanning to break the edges of it.

A wire wheel on a bench grinder does 90% of the rust removing for me. I only use a rust remover if I want almost every speck of rust off.

After the bath, wash with water, dry it, and wax it or whatever you prefer. I always put a drop of 3in1 oil in/on all threaded parts of the plane.
 
#16 ·
I think I'll just bite the bullet and get duplicolor since I have to get a diamond stone from Amazon anyway.

Since I brought that up, is the trend 2 sided stone better than dmt duos? I have a 6000 grit wetstone, but I want a coarser diamond stone or set that can work fast without becoming unflat.
Budget is <110 for both 300ish and 1000ish grits. 8inch stone preferred, but wide 6 inch stone that are good quality would work too.
 
#17 ·
I think I'll just bite the bullet and get duplicolor since I have to get a diamond stone from Amazon anyway.

Since I brought that up, is the trend 2 sided stone better than dmt duos? I have a 6000 grit wetstone, but I want a coarser diamond stone or set that can work fast without becoming unflat.
Budget is <110 for both 300ish and 1000ish grits. 8inch stone preferred, but wide 6 inch stone that are good quality would work too.
 
#19 ·
That one in the picture isn t that bad at all. As a user I wouldn t go crazy stripping and painting. I would just knock the rust off the sole and sides.

- corelz125
Sooo, is it safe to assume you live near spongebob? Lol
If that is good, I dont want anything to do with bad rust!
I do want it to look good, but I'm thinking about just clear coating it after a good cleaning. I was planning on painting, but that japanning is stinking on there!
 
#20 ·
That's not japanning. That's a Millers Falls made Craftsman. They never used japanning (that I'm aware of at least). That's a baked-on enamel. For me, sandblasting is the way to remove it. Fresh wire brush on a grinder will likely get the job done too.
 
#22 ·
This was a rusted plane. Maybe it was spongebobs grandfathers.
Hand tool Wood Tool Metalworking hand tool Auto part


Wood Gas Bumper Metal Artifact


Point taken. Though the sole on mine had 1/4" of rust when I found it. The photo is after a handheld wire brush so not as bad as originally.

- corelz125
 

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#25 ·
Wood Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory Metal

After paint

Brown Wood Font Gas Rectangle

Before paint

Hand tool Finger Bumper Crankset Tool

Before wire wheel and finish

Wood Automotive design Art Office equipment Music

After wire wheel and handle finish (my favorite plane now!)

Thank you guys!
 

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