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Questions about fresh cut Cherry Tree

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Forum topic by UnclewillyT posted 12-14-2018 02:48 PM 656 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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UnclewillyT

3 posts in 253 days


12-14-2018 02:48 PM

Topic tags/keywords: fresh lumber fresh wood logs lumber cherry cherry tree

Hey All,

I’m brand new to this site, and I have a few questions about how to best handle some freshly cut lumber.

Just this morning we cut down Two cherry tree that were each about 30Ft tall. One was rotten through and through so it was disposed of. The other tree had some really nice wood in it. Obviously the branches get thinner at the top after the split, but the trunk itself was totally solid and not rotten at all. Due to the size of my garage, the trunk was cut into 4 sections each 4 to 5 feet long (I would have preferred two larger sections but I would have been fully unable to move them. The tree is currently sitting in the corner of my garage (well more like half of my garage).

I don’t know anything about wood quality, so I’m not even sure this was actually worth keeping (I think it is). But, I kept it.

Ideally, I’d like to hire someone with a portable mill to come cut it down to usable sizes. I saw a thread here where that was discussed in depth.

Until then, I’m wondering how I should treat this wood.

I’ve read about “sealing the end” but I don’t know what that is exactly. Do I need to “debark” the wood?

Should I let them dry as logs before getting them milled or should they be milled asap?

I understand I’ll lose wood to pith and wood to sap but I think there is still some good wood in the middle.

Any ideas on how I should move forward with these logs?


10 replies so far

View AZWoody's profile

AZWoody

1456 posts in 1678 days


#1 posted 12-14-2018 03:03 PM

Get them milled asap.

The ends you can treat with regular latex paint if you have some. I use elastomeric roofing sealant. It does a really good job of coating the ends. You can buy anchorseal or the equivalents but that can be expensive for a one time job.

Also have stickers ready to stack the boards to dry after they’re milled.

View Steve's profile

Steve

1509 posts in 1036 days


#2 posted 12-14-2018 03:19 PM

as AZWoody said, seal the ends asap.

Then either find someone with a portable mill or find a way to get them to a mill near you.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10415 posts in 1592 days


#3 posted 12-14-2018 06:46 PM

If you post your general location Uncle Willy, some LJ with a chainsaw mill or portable bandmill might be willing to come out and help you mill it up for a share of the lumber :-) In the meantime, paint the ends like AZWoody said and leave the bark alone. The goal is to have it dry at as even a rate as possible which means slowing it down at the ends so the center can keep up. The sooner you mill it, the less loss you will have to checking. But, even logs that have been cut for a couple of years can yield good, usable lumber if the ends were sealed and they were stored out of the elements.

Do what you can to keep the logs somewhere with air circulation but out of rain or direct sunlight. Put stickers (spacers) in between the logs and underneath them now and especially after they’re milled.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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UnclewillyT

3 posts in 253 days


#4 posted 12-15-2018 07:32 AM

Hey guys,

Thanks so much for the answers. I’m located in Chicago. I’d love to find a local LJ. I’m far from a LJ. Haha.

Thanks again,

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

5332 posts in 2763 days


#5 posted 12-15-2018 08:18 AM

You might try this. These are wood-mizer portable mill owner’s in your state.

https://woodmizer.com/us/Services/Find-a-Local-Sawyer

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View jonah's profile

jonah

2075 posts in 3752 days


#6 posted 12-15-2018 03:28 PM

Any good tree company will know of local people with portable sawmills. Try whoever took your trees down (assuming you didn’t do it yourself).

View Fresch's profile

Fresch

441 posts in 2374 days


#7 posted 12-16-2018 02:30 AM

The scraps will be good for food smoking if you cut the oil (chainsaw) areas off.

View UnclewillyT's profile

UnclewillyT

3 posts in 253 days


#8 posted 12-16-2018 02:43 AM



Any good tree company will know of local people with portable sawmills. Try whoever took your trees down (assuming you didn t do it yourself).

- jonah


That would work, except I think I’m now feuding with those guys. The cutting quote they gave me was great so I took it. When they were in the process of cutting it down they told me they were gonna load it up and “dump it” for me. I told me them just to leave it so I could put it in the garage. The guy then told me that he was taking the wood. I then obviously told him he wasn’t taking the wood. He then said all bids include taking the wood, I told him that was interesting because the contract certainly didn’t say anything about that. Then he tried to steal my wood. That obviously didn’t happen, but it was kinda odd. I guess he thought he was getting a free cherry tree…

So, I don’t think that guy is giving me any advice.

I did find a guy (used to go to high school with him). He has a chainsaw mill that he’s gonna bring over in about a week. So, right now a week is ASAP for the milling.

Thanks for all the advice.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10415 posts in 1592 days


#9 posted 12-16-2018 03:50 AM

A week is plenty ASAP :-)

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Dave Polaschek's profile

Dave Polaschek

4064 posts in 1036 days


#10 posted 12-16-2018 11:05 AM

What Kenny said. My apple and apricot trees were down for most of a summer before my co-worker got around to slabbing them. There’s some interesting spalting in the sapwood on the side that was on the ground in his back yard, but the rest of the wood was fine, and the spalted stuff will probably be fodder for wood-stabilizing experiments. And in a Chicago winter, you don’t even have to worry much about them rotting. They would probably be fine if you don’t get to slabbing it until spring.

-- Dave - Minneapolis

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