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Forum topic by jjminch posted 12-12-2018 01:23 PM 480 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jjminch

12 posts in 224 days


12-12-2018 01:23 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hello all,

Long time lurker, first time poster here. My wife has asked me to build an entertainment center and likes the rustic look. Specifically she likes the looks of this one:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/516620650/rustic-industrial-barn-board-media-stand?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=rustic+industrial+entertainment+center&ref=sr_gallery-1-12&organic_search_click=1

I’m not trying to copy the design exactly, as I don’t really like the construction. The sides seem to be planks and the frame is out of 2×2s.

I would think the preferred method of construction would be 3/4” plywood with rabbets for the joints. I could hide all the seems with the angle iron. Is there any reason to use 2×2 or 2×3 for the carcass such as in these plans?

http://www.ana-white.com/2015/08/free_plans/grandy-sliding-door-console

Any other plans for something similar that I can be referred to?

Tool wise I have a jointer, router, table saw, drill press, and plenty of clamps and hand tools that I inherited. This would just be slightly out of my comfort zone. Appreciate the help.


9 replies so far

View GrantA's profile

GrantA

1617 posts in 1830 days


#1 posted 12-12-2018 01:33 PM

Welcome aboard! That looks pretty cool, the most important advice I can give you is don’t tell her you can have it done by Christmas
Or any specific date really. I’ve learned that the hard way lol

As for construction the good news is the steel angle will hold the weight. Are you able to weld or have it welded? If so I’d do that and add bolts just for looks if wanted

From there I’d use 3/4 ply for the bottom and the vertical dividers, looks like the top is 2x material and the ends could be anything you want. Maybe some black tin even. We like pictures and project posts so keep us updated!

View Don Broussard's profile

Don Broussard

3758 posts in 2674 days


#2 posted 12-12-2018 01:41 PM

My son and I (and my granddaughter) built an “entertainment center”:http://lumberjocks.com/projects/334833 from an Ana White plan with a few changes. We did build the skeleton out of 2×4 construction lumber. We didn’t use any stationary tools like a table saw or drill press since we built the project at my son’s house. Using 3/4” plywood with rabbets would be fine for construction. I’m not sure you’d need steel angle iron to hide seams.

BTW, I don’t consider myself an advanced woodworker or a furniture maker but this project didn’t challenge my basic skills. You can do this. Good luck with your project.

-- People say I hammer like lightning. It's not that I'm fast -- it's that I never hit the same place twice!

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jjminch

12 posts in 224 days


#3 posted 12-12-2018 02:47 PM

Thanks for the replies.

I can’t weld and I’m just looking at the angle iron as mostly decorative. I have a metal chop saw and planned on just bolting them on once the piece was completely finished. It’s just something different from all the other barn door designs you see floating around.

I’ve never done rabbets so will need to research that some. Mainly want to determine what jig i would need to run a full rabbet 20” long for shelves.

One change I’m thinking of is using IT Rackmount rails for the center section. I have a full rack upstairs and I think it would go well with the industrial theme. Something like this.

https://thehomeserverblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/do-it-yourself-server-rack-top-servers.jpg

Don – Since you built the Ana White design, how would you go incorporating plywood dividers and shelving into it? For the vertical plywood, would a rabbet on the bottom and screwing it into the side of the 2×4 cross brace work? (I’m looking at the picture of your granddaughter in the project file for reference).

View GrantA's profile

GrantA

1617 posts in 1830 days


#4 posted 12-12-2018 02:53 PM

use your router for dadoes and rabbets. I’ll post a pic of my simple jig for that in a bit

View Don Broussard's profile

Don Broussard

3758 posts in 2674 days


#5 posted 12-12-2018 03:01 PM


Don – Since you built the Ana White design, how would you go incorporating plywood dividers and shelving into it? For the vertical plywood, would a rabbet on the bottom and screwing it into the side of the 2×4 cross brace work? (I m looking at the picture of your granddaughter in the project file for reference).

IIRC, we used pocket screws on the plywood dividers to the bottom of the piece, and screwed the top of the dividers to the 2×4 braces. A rabbet (or a dado) into the bottom would certainly work too.

-- People say I hammer like lightning. It's not that I'm fast -- it's that I never hit the same place twice!

View Robert's profile

Robert

3441 posts in 1903 days


#6 posted 12-12-2018 03:02 PM

I’ll start by saying Ana White has no concept of correct furniture making, so don’t go by her plans.

You can use he stuff as a concept, and build it right. If it were me, I would use plywood, too.

If you’re using solid wood lumber for sides and doors you have to take wood movement into account with the construction (something AW has no concept of). For example, if you’re mounting a cleat xgrain, be sure to drill elongated holes to allow for movement.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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jjminch

12 posts in 224 days


#7 posted 12-12-2018 03:46 PM

The only solid wood that would be visible would be the top and doors. The sides and internal dividers and shelves would be plywood.

In the past I’ve just done glue ups with 4 way clamps for table tops. After running the edges through a jointer I’d glue them up and use a few pocket screws for piece of mind. When affixing a solid wood top to the base I’d typically use dowel rods and glue. I’ve never accounted for movement and I do have a fair amount of humidity hear in Austin, TX. Sounds like I need to do some more reading. Thank you all.

View jdmaher's profile

jdmaher

459 posts in 3002 days


#8 posted 12-12-2018 05:38 PM

Based on the etsy picture, the carcass could be plywood and the all that angle iron would BE the joints (so no need for rabbets, et al).

However, as shown, the top and doors and dividers and shelves seem to be solid wood. That makes sense, ‘cause otherwise you’d have plywood edges that need to be covered somehow.

For the dividers and shelves, I WOULD use dadoes and just slide ‘em in there.

I almost always over-build. Me, I’d make a four-sided and backed carcass out of plywood. Then I’d just use over-sized holes in the plywood top and screws with washers to attach the solid wood top.

BTW, this thing looks like it’s gonna weigh a TON.

-- Jim Maher, Illinois

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jjminch

12 posts in 224 days


#9 posted 12-13-2018 01:18 AM

Thanks JD. I like the idea of a full plywood carcass and your method of mounting the top. I definitely think I could accomplish that.

I am getting heavy duty casters which should make moving it easier. I was thinking it would weigh around 250 lbs.

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