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Porter Cable planer snipe issues

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Forum topic by PhillipRCW posted 12-10-2018 09:11 PM 1455 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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PhillipRCW

514 posts in 1684 days


12-10-2018 09:11 PM

I have the 12” Porter Cable planer from Lowes. I seem to get pretty bad snipe on both ends. I support it the best I can going in and out, but does anyone have some tips or modifications that help limit the snipe on this model?

-- Phillip- Measure twice, cut onc.... Hey look, it's rustic.


11 replies so far

View Broncfan1986's profile

Broncfan1986

6 posts in 632 days


#1 posted 12-10-2018 09:28 PM

I saw something a while back that knocked all my snipe out. I run a sacrificial board in front of and behind my good stock, obviously same thickness.

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

3115 posts in 2592 days


#2 posted 12-10-2018 09:32 PM

All planers cause snipe. You need to support or lift up slitghtly on the wood as it enters and exits the planer.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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WoodenDreams

623 posts in 330 days


#3 posted 12-10-2018 09:53 PM

One thing I did to my Planer, is clamp a 2×12x5’ to the tables short infeed & outfeed extensions. This gave me a longer table surface for the boards to slide across. Another method is to cut your boards a few inches longer before you plane them, then cut to size after the boards are planed to thickness. As johntoned said, Lift slightly on the infeed side, then lift slightly on the outfeed side. Or have a support that can do this on the table.

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pintodeluxe

5951 posts in 3233 days


#4 posted 12-10-2018 11:40 PM

If the infeed and outfeed tables are adjustable on your model, adjust them so they are raised slightly at the far ends. Usually raising the tables 1/8” with respect to the planer bed will eliminate snipe. Make the tables look like a shallow “V” when viewed from the side.

Otherwise, rig up a 48-50” melamine shelf with some cleats. Install that on your planer bed to improve workpiece support.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

737 posts in 1522 days


#5 posted 12-11-2018 03:03 PM



I saw something a while back that knocked all my snipe out. I run a sacrificial board in front of and behind my good stock, obviously same thickness.

- Broncfan1986


I also use this method. Similarly, what is sometimes easier to do is use narrow strips (same thickness) along each side of the work piece and extend 4-6” beyond the ends. It is easier to hold these in place as you feed all three pieces together into the machine. If you are machining several pieces to the same thickness, it is easy to move the sacrificial strips from work piece to work piece. if your work piece is long, you can hot melt glue the narrow pieces to the sides at just the ends. They don’t need to be full length.

View Bill Berklich's profile

Bill Berklich

830 posts in 808 days


#6 posted 12-11-2018 03:38 PM



All planers cause snipe. You need to support or lift up slitghtly on the wood as it enters and exits the planer.

- johnstoneb

+1 It will reduce/eliminate snipe in 90% of planers. For me I have an out-feed table 30” long and a 1/4” higher than the table at the end.

-- Bill - Rochester MI

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Robert

3436 posts in 1900 days


#7 posted 12-11-2018 04:04 PM



All planers cause snipe. You need to support or lift up slitghtly on the wood as it enters and exits the planer.

- johnstoneb

Not true guys. Could be a problem on lunchbox or cheaper planers that you can’t adjust, but I have no snipe at all on my planer. On mine I achieved it by lowering the bed rollers flush.

If its sniping on the way out you need 1) outfeed support (hold board up or raise outfeed table up a bit) or 2) run a sacrificial board behind it.

It its sniping on the way in, The bed rollers are too high.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View tomsteve's profile

tomsteve

958 posts in 1638 days


#8 posted 12-11-2018 04:45 PM

if its the PC305, you wont get rid of all of the snipe unless ya do what broncfan mentioned.you could also run longer boards on each side of ones ya want to plane. the snipe is a hereditary thing that came with the planer when it was rebadged from the delta TP305

i dont think theres adjustments on the feed rollers on this model.

View PhillipRCW's profile

PhillipRCW

514 posts in 1684 days


#9 posted 12-11-2018 10:30 PM



if its the PC305, you wont get rid of all of the snipe unless ya do what broncfan mentioned.you could also run longer boards on each side of ones ya want to plane. the snipe is a hereditary thing that came with the planer when it was rebadged from the delta TP305

i dont think theres adjustments on the feed rollers on this model.

- tomsteve

This is what I was worried about. I’ve done almost all the steps above, but just not having any luck getting rid of it on the wider boards. I try to plane 12” wide cutting boards, but it kills part of the board with snipe.

-- Phillip- Measure twice, cut onc.... Hey look, it's rustic.

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tomsteve

958 posts in 1638 days


#10 posted 12-14-2018 03:09 PM


This is what I was worried about. I ve done almost all the steps above, but just not having any luck getting rid of it on the wider boards. I try to plane 12” wide cutting boards, but it kills part of the board with snipe.

- PhillipRCW

cutting boards is where a wide belt sander comes in handy.

View PhillipRCW's profile

PhillipRCW

514 posts in 1684 days


#11 posted 12-14-2018 03:37 PM


This is what I was worried about. I ve done almost all the steps above, but just not having any luck getting rid of it on the wider boards. I try to plane 12” wide cutting boards, but it kills part of the board with snipe.

- PhillipRCW

cutting boards is where a wide belt sander comes in handy.

- tomsteve

I can add it to my Amazon wishlist if you want to be Santa for a fellow woodworker.

-- Phillip- Measure twice, cut onc.... Hey look, it's rustic.

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