Bandsaw Blades for a G0513X2

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Forum topic by jta posted 12-03-2018 11:55 PM 852 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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59 posts in 1125 days

12-03-2018 11:55 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw

While I’m waiting for the bandsaw blade, wanted to get some advice on blade decisions so I can put her to use – I’ve read around a little and note that Timberwolf seem to make some nice blades for a saw like this, just wondering if there are any more recent opinions as the older reviews here seems to be circa 2014. I’m after at least 2 and possibly 3 if folks recommend things that would be useful. From everything I’ve seen our there the stock blade is rubbish.

Resaw – seems like a 3/4 or similar at 2-3 TPI – possibly bi-metallic/carbide would be the best option here. I plan on working from plenty of rough stuff from a local dealer.

General Purpose – not sure what to go with here – have read some stuff suggesting a 3/8” 4-5TPI was a decent choice for something to handle tenons/tapers/general cutting tasks. Would welcome any suggestions on this front.

Scrolling? Its a little bit of a large saw for this application – but any suggestions here?

If anyone has the particular saw, would also welcome your experiences on the limits/preferred choices – I am assuming a 131.5” is the right choice length wise.

Would also be interested if anyone had an accessory recommendations.

5 replies so far

View Lee's profile


153 posts in 2118 days

#1 posted 12-04-2018 12:33 AM

I’ve had the 513X2 for several years, and the blade i use the most is a timberwolf 3/8 4tpi . its small enough to do most curve cuts and still does a damn good job resawing. Also have a TW dedicated 3/4 resaw blade and a 3/16 10tpi for the fine scroll work. But the 3/8 is on the saw 90% of the time. and yes 131.5” is the correct length. hope this helps.

-- Colombia Custom Woodworking

View BattleRidge's profile


152 posts in 1456 days

#2 posted 12-04-2018 02:22 AM

I have a Laguna 18BX so we aren’t overly far apart on machine size.

For Resaw, I have the carbide Laguna Resaw King blade and really like it’s cut quality, durability and longevity. My saw is rated for up to a 1-1/4” blade but I generally prefer not working at the upper limits of my equipment so went with a 1” blade, and the saw tensions it well. I got the blades from Laguna and they had the best price.

I also like the bi-metal Lenox Diemaster 2 blades, again for the cut quality, durability and longevity which provides a good value. The 1/4”, 6tpi is my primary go-to blade and usually remains on the machine, but I also have a 1/2” 4tpi blace the performs well. I got the blades from

I have plans to resaw a lot of wood from an old one-room schoolhouse and while I will be doing my best to find any nails or other metal, both visually and with a detector, I am concerned that I could miss something and inadvertently ruin a blade. Until I am relatively comfortable in what I am doing, I would like to add a less expensive blade to my collection so that I won’t be out a lot should I strike something bad.

I have tinkered around with getting a blade smaller than 1/4” and adding the Carter stabilizer for more intricate workings, but haven’t ventured there yet.

-- ~Art~

View AHuxley's profile


874 posts in 4561 days

#3 posted 12-04-2018 02:49 AM

For resawing a 3/4” Lenox Trimaster or Laguna Resaw King is as good as you can get, there are other options that are much cheaper but you give up longevity, finish or both.

For a “general purpose” blade while I don’t really see it that way a 3/8” or 1/4” 6tpi is a blade you can make most cuts with albeit giving up speed in a lot of applications. The 6tpi if you will cut a lot of 3/4” stock but you can go to 4tpi if you primarily cut 4/4 and above. I tend to use Lenox blades unless they don’t have a specific blade configuration I need. The Diemaster 2 is an excellent bi-metal blade or their Flexback if you want cheaper carbon blades. My usual sources are CT Saw, Spectrum Supply, Woodcraftbands (not Woodcraft) and Iturra Designs. All of these produce very good welds the vast majority of the time.

The saw isn’t too large for “scrolling” but keep in mind you can cut down to 1 1/4” diameter curves with a 1/4” blade. If you need tighter and want to use a 3/16” or 1/8” blade then you probably want to buy a Carter Stabilizer or rig up a way to use Cool Blocks, wood blocks or some other softer than the blade solid guide.

View bigJohninvegas's profile


1095 posts in 2701 days

#4 posted 12-04-2018 02:59 AM

I have had the 513X2 for a couple years now. Right from the get go I went with blades that I had custom made here in Las Vegas over at Nevada Carbide. I bought 2 each to start with 1/4”, 1/2” and 3/4”. I think the 3/4” blades were about $18 each, and around $15 for the 1/4” blade.
Just like you, I was shopping for blades waiting for my new saw to arrive. I was going to order Lenox blades, then remembered Nevada Carbide. I really thought I would just try the local blades and then order Lenox later on. Try other brands out to see what worked best. But the blades made here have worked so well that I just keep going back when needed. And actually, I still have the original 3/4” blades. I have gone through the other two. broke a 1/4” blade early. But that was totally my fault.
I had looked into the Carbide blades, very expensive.
Other forums that I had read back then, it seemed that the opinion was that at $18 for a 3/4” blade, you could buy ten for the price of 1 carbide. And if you break a $18 blade it does not hurt so bad.
So I just priced a Lenox blade.
$230.00 WOW
Blade length is wrong on the link. should be 10’-11.5”= 131.5
Here is a link to Nevada Carbide & Cutter.

-- John

View AHuxley's profile


874 posts in 4561 days

#5 posted 12-04-2018 03:31 AM

Do you know what blade stock Nevada Carbide uses?

The benefit of carbide is two-fold, they will produce a better finish off the saw (most important with veneer cutting) and will last 20-25 times as long as a carbon blade and can be easily sharpened 4-5 times at a cost of about $50. So if you use them enough they are far more economical than carbon blades. They are also easier to find in variable pitch grinds which reduce harmonic vibrations which is part of the increase in finish quality They do require roughly twice the tension of a carbon steel blade so you have to be careful in matching them with the saw.

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