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12 Inch Miter Saw Blade Advice

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Forum topic by Fired_Yo_Momma posted 11-30-2018 02:34 PM 716 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Fired_Yo_Momma

80 posts in 1948 days


11-30-2018 02:34 PM

Hello All,

I am sure this has beaten to death but I am looking for advice on a new Miter saw blade. I did a search for 12 Inch Miter saw blades but the latest information was a few years out. I picked up a black friday Lowes special on this Hitachi 12-In-in 15-Amp Bevel Slide Laser Compound Miter Saw.

I make a lot of picture frames so tight 45 degree cuts are important. Any advice will be welcomed.

Thanks


15 replies so far

View smitdog's profile

smitdog

442 posts in 2641 days


#1 posted 11-30-2018 02:57 PM

I personally use Irwin Marples blades with great success, which you can usually find at Lowes. I feel they are the sweet spot as far as cost vs performance for me. If you have the money and want the absolute best quality then go with Forrest.

-- Jarrett - Mount Vernon, Ohio

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

1471 posts in 3385 days


#2 posted 11-30-2018 02:58 PM

I run a 90 tooth blade for fine cutting. But for dead nuts miter cuts I use a 45* sled on the TS.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View JayT's profile

JayT

6307 posts in 2747 days


#3 posted 11-30-2018 03:26 PM

I’ve switched to Everlast blades on my miter saw. I was using Freud Diablo blades and they are really good, but the Everlast are better. Much better tooth geometry for specific tasks with better quality and thicker carbide. I’d put them up with Forrest for quality and usually at a little better price.

Everlast was selling to mostly commercial, but is expanding out to retail. There are a lot of saw sharpening shops that sell them, but they can now be purchased on Amazon, as well.

-- https://www.jtplaneworks.com - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View SMP's profile

SMP

1420 posts in 441 days


#4 posted 11-30-2018 03:31 PM


I ve switched to Everlast blades on my miter saw. I was using Freud Diablo blades and they are really good, but the Everlast are better. Much better tooth geometry for specific tasks with better quality and thicker carbide. I d put them up with Forrest for quality and usually at a little better price.

Everlast was selling to mostly commercial, but is expanding out to retail. There are a lot of saw sharpening shops that sell them, but they can now be purchased on Amazon, as well.

- JayT

I was going to mention the Freud blade, as they are relatively inexpensive at Home Depot. And a miter saw is difficult to get accurate 45s for picture frames anyways, especially on sliding saws.

View DBDesigns's profile

DBDesigns

232 posts in 533 days


#5 posted 11-30-2018 03:32 PM

Good luck with that Hitachi saw. I have had a Hitachi 12” compound miter saw for about 2 years and I am very disappointed with it. I do recommend you use a high quality blade to make up for the inadequacies of any new Chinese saw. I recommend high end Freud Diablo, AMT, or Forrest. Your choice on tooth count.

-- I remember when Grateful wasn't Dead

View Blindhog's profile

Blindhog

136 posts in 1584 days


#6 posted 11-30-2018 03:36 PM

As noted previously, you can’t go wrong with a Forrest 12” ChopMaster. I get smooth cuts on my Bosch SCMS using one. Watching the feed/speed rate helps ensure a tearout free cut.

-- Don't let perfection get in the way of plenty good enough

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2149 posts in 1139 days


#7 posted 11-30-2018 04:41 PM

Like someone said, nothing wrong with the Irwin Marples blade or any other mid priced big box store blade. 80 tooth. Good for years. If you think about it a miter saw actually cuts very few board feet, just a lot of small chops which usually aren’t the finishing cut anyway and isn’t used for ripping. JMHO.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2149 posts in 1139 days


#8 posted 11-30-2018 09:05 PM

However, re-reading your post, a 12” miter saw is not the way to get accurate 45 degree picture frame cuts. A miter saw has too many moving, bending, sliding spinning parts for that kind of accuracy. It’s just not made for that. Miter saws were originally designed for the construction industry.

My suggestion would be to use a table saw and frame jig like this one

It is deadly accurate. The thing I like about it the most is that the measurements are based on the length of the glass/mat regardless of the width of the frame rails. So if the glass and matte are 37 3/16×24 7/8 that’s what you measure and cut. Don’t bother with the fancy micro-jig sliders he uses.

It’s what I use to make frames like this one.

Keep the saw but make the jig.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Monty151's profile

Monty151

83 posts in 377 days


#9 posted 11-30-2018 09:10 PM

+1 on the Forrest ChopMaster

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

2249 posts in 2565 days


#10 posted 12-01-2018 12:32 AM

Hmph…didn’t know Forrest did a miter saw blade.
“add to cart” here I come!

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1239 posts in 2075 days


#11 posted 12-01-2018 01:48 AM

I have the Infinity Tool 12” miter saw blade on mine and really love it. Can’t go wrong with some of the other recommended ones here.

View Rob Vicelli's profile

Rob Vicelli

109 posts in 3227 days


#12 posted 12-01-2018 04:51 AM

+1 on Forrest Chopmaster

-- Rob V

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

4081 posts in 1110 days


#13 posted 12-01-2018 06:01 AM


I run a 90 tooth blade for fine cutting. But for dead nuts miter cuts I use a 45* sled on the TS.

- ChefHDAN

Same here. For the fine cuts I use a sled on the TS with a high count crosscut blade. I use an 80 tooth Hi ATB made just for TS crosscuts. The one currently is a Ridge carbide blade

On the miter saw I use a very nice blade, but usually save the money for the TS blade for the sled. The crosscuts can be ok, or even a little rough. Right now I have this Freud on my 12 inch chopper I picked that one because I had a job where I was cutting 8” wide pieces of plywood to length, and I didn’t want it to fray up at the cut lines. It does a great job on solid woods as well, so if you will it’s a “combo” blade for all materials on a chopper. If it wasn’t for the plywood I had planned I would have bought a lower priced blade for the chopper. I’ve found when sharp even medium quality blades work ok for non finish cuts on a chopper.

-- Think safe, be safe

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

4081 posts in 1110 days


#14 posted 12-01-2018 06:13 AM

My suggestion would be to use a table saw and frame jig like this one

Andybb

Andy I agree, that jig the Drunken Woodworker made is awesome. So many just make a point for 45*, then you are lost trying to accurately cut your pieces to the correct, or even a repeatable length.

If the subject was just picture frames I would suggest that over any other jig I have seen, ho made, or purchased. It’s the slick Willy of woodworking jigs. But it’s only as good as you make it.

-- Think safe, be safe

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8343 posts in 3911 days


#15 posted 12-01-2018 02:15 PM

Because of the larger diameter of a 12” blade, I’d stick with a full kerf blade to reduce deflection. 80-100 teeth in an ATB or ATB/R combination should be fine. If you plan to cut a lot of very hard or abrasive materials, look to a triple chip grind (TCG). There are some really good choices from Infinity, Ridge Carbide, Amana Tools, Forrest, Tenryu, Freud Industrial, Everlast, CMT Industrial, etc.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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