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Bark Removal/Preservation Question ?

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Forum topic by GuyWhite posted 11-25-2018 03:09 PM 400 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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GuyWhite

2 posts in 238 days


11-25-2018 03:09 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bark slab cedar finishing

Hello Everyone – I’m seeking some suggestions/advice on what to do with a live edge slab that I’m planning to use as a bar top. Originally I had planned on removing the bark but on closer inspection I noticed that the bark includes a branch that extends into the slab. I’m now wondering whether I should try securing the bark or remove the bark around the branch. Is there a best approach on how to handle this ?

Thank you


7 replies so far

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

1880 posts in 582 days


#1 posted 11-25-2018 03:38 PM

if it were my project, I would use a grinder to shape the stubby limb
to the same profile as the live edge, round over any sharp edges that may
snag on the skin or clothes and continue on with the project.
(I personally would not fill the gap with epoxy).
LOTS of natural character in that one !!!! good find !

.

.

-- I am a painter. That's what I do. I paint things --

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2321 posts in 2217 days


#2 posted 11-25-2018 03:40 PM

I like it so I would leave it in. The part of the branch that’s sticking out the edge just need a texture carved on it. I’m sure you already knew that. :)

-- Aj

View Rich's profile

Rich

4564 posts in 1009 days


#3 posted 11-25-2018 04:00 PM

I always remove the bark on my mesquite pieces and clean the edge up with a Kutzall and finally with a H&L sanding disk attached to my angle grinder.

Regarding the interior bark, I would definitely fill it with epoxy to stabilize it and level the surface. I color mine black since that’s pretty traditional for mesquite. It appears the bark goes all the way through. To deal with leakage, what I do is mix one batch with enough silica that it does not drip or flow and seal one side (usually what will be the bottom) with it using a bondo spreader to press it in and completely seal the surface. After that cures I flip the board and pour more epoxy little by little allowing it to seep in until it’s filled.

One tip that will save you some time is to use the bondo scraper to level the surface before the epoxy cures. It avoids a lot of sanding.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View pottz's profile

pottz

5552 posts in 1404 days


#4 posted 11-26-2018 02:07 AM

well many say that you cant keep bark on,that it will always come off-b-s I always leave the bark on,because I like it,and ive never had it fall off in the last 30 years of doing live edge.so do what ever you like the look off in my opinion!.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

5780 posts in 2140 days


#5 posted 11-26-2018 02:21 AM

Do you know what moisture content the wood is and where it will stabilize where it’s ultimately going to be used? I have had multiple branches and knots fall out that weren’t held into place with some kind of adhesive even when everything was already dried down to 8% MC. I think in this application the advantages out weigh the disadvantages of using epoxy and it shouldn’t ever go anywhere once void is filled.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View GuyWhite's profile

GuyWhite

2 posts in 238 days


#6 posted 11-26-2018 05:19 AM

Thanks for the replies – I checked the moisture content with the meter I use for firewood – the outside is between 10 – 12% – but when I stuck it into one of the cracks, I got about 14%. I’m using this as bar top – there two pieces that will be joined into an L-Shape. It will be secured via stainless steel lag screws so it should not move once it’s down.

@pottz – I’m considering leaving it on. Do you have a process for keeping the bark ? I’ve read about people using pin nails, and dousing it with Epoxy. One things I would rather not do, it cut it off, and epoxy is back on.

I’m in the process of filling some of the cracks with T88 epoxy now, but I haven’t done anything with the bark. I was planning on staining and then using some kind of bar top epoxy – would welcome recommendations.

Thanks again everyone !

View pottz's profile

pottz

5552 posts in 1404 days


#7 posted 11-26-2018 02:57 PM



Thanks for the replies – I checked the moisture content with the meter I use for firewood – the outside is between 10 – 12% – but when I stuck it into one of the cracks, I got about 14%. I m using this as bar top – there two pieces that will be joined into an L-Shape. It will be secured via stainless steel lag screws so it should not move once it s down.

@pottz – I m considering leaving it on. Do you have a process for keeping the bark ? I ve read about people using pin nails, and dousing it with Epoxy. One things I would rather not do, it cut it off, and epoxy is back on.

I m in the process of filling some of the cracks with T88 epoxy now, but I haven t done anything with the bark. I was planning on staining and then using some kind of bar top epoxy – would welcome recommendations.

Thanks again everyone !

- GuyWhite


the knot your showing if its loose ive always just used ca glue because the thin will soak down into the tight cracks.most of the slabs ive done in the past have been oregon mrytle wood and maple burls.my go to finish is a maloof oil finish that i apply 3-4 coats and have had no problems with any bark coming off.my dad had done some bar tops with epoxy tops years ago and didnt have any problems.if the wood is dry and the bark seems tight you should be good.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

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