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Tried to hand plane

2K views 15 replies 14 participants last post by  Phil32 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well today I tried to hand plane a piece of wood and it ended up with swear words and throwing stuff and trying to break something to release the anger I had from it. Why does one side like to dig into the wood? No matter what, even with a new blade, I just cant seem to get this stuff done.

I really wanted to get a small project done, and accomplish something and I cant even do one simple f*g project.

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#2 ·
Likely change in grain. Interlocked grain. etc… Have to change approach angle in that spot typically. Even then some woods just tricky. A different blade angle or plane with bed angle can help. Some times just have to get it as close as one can then finish up with a card scraper.
 
#3 ·
Did you set up your plane to take a fine shaving on a piece of short scrap wood. From the looks of you're pic that's a heavy shaving.
After the blade is set for a lite shaving work down the high spots. This all depends on your ability to have a truly sharp blade.
Don't give up endeavor to purserver
Good luck and go with the grain :)
 
#5 ·
Take a deep breath….Handplaning is a skill and takes practice. The first time I used a hand plane I had the same reaction; it didn't produce nice shavings and mostly dug into the wood. You'll get a lot of advice here, but honestly, the two best things you can do is learn to sharpen and get a good book on handplanes, it'll teach you how to set one up so that it actually works for you.
 
#6 ·
I'm willing to bet we've all been there, done that and got the t-shirt. I usually avoid planing wood with interlocking grains if I'm just about to finish it. Sand paper or a card scraper is your friend in this case. If you have to, or at least want to plane, then I've found that setting the cutting depth as shallow as possible and planing at an angle, rather than in the direction of the grain is the best method. In addition don't go at it like a bull in a china shop that way if you feel it starting to bite, you can minimize any tear out.

Note, you can still get tear out with a plane even if you're following these steps. Best of luck.
 
#8 ·
Sharp edges like steps?

The iron should never be sharpened straight across. Unless it's a rabbet plane.

Some, like myself, relieve the edge as well as putting a little camber in it. Making the ends of the iron slightly curved.

Others just camber the iron. No wrong way to do it. Preference really.
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
A good plane tune up is possibly needed, however the skills required are not something you get imediately.
Manitario and lumbering_on provide some good advice.

With lots of practice and you will be soon doing this !!
BTW You may need earplugs!

Acknowledgements to Pottz
In fact have a look at his post there are some interesting notes there, (I hope you dont mind wading through all the prattle!)

And dont forget its the only time you back bevel
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hand planes and finishing have a lot in common - don't learn a new skill on a current project. Use scrap to try, and then perfect the skill, with new things. Don't fret, you're now a member of a huge club of folks who have gone through the same thing.

Sharp blade edges are most important, and if a bevel down bench plane, proper tuning and placement of the chipbreaker. Read here for hand plane tuning. Once properly tuned up, on scrap, set the iron for no contact with the wood, slowly advance the edge until the slightest whisper shaving are made, and now move the plane around to different sections of the board and take several strokes. Adjust the skew lever to each side. Advance the blade with just a nudge and repeat. Keep repeating, adjusting the blade up and down, the skew side to side, to develop a "feel" for how much blade adjustment changes the thickness of the chip and where the edge cuts on the blade. Keep practicing. Then get a board of diffrerent material and do the same thing. Repeat. Keep at it, skill development takes time. There is a reason athletes spend hours and hours on the practice field prior to games.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
Don't get discouraged, most here had the same problem when we first started, if we taught ourselves. I did, but now I love using my hand planes. I look for excuses to use them.

As already said, you need to be really sure your blade is sharp. and the plane is "tuned." Also, when you come across stubborn wood, try turning the nose of the plane 30 degrees to one side of the direction you're planing. Skewing the plane can help a lot.

Also try planing from the opposite direction, in case you're going against the grain.
 
#15 ·
Take less of a cut and it looks like it's digging in on the sap wood. I would take a finer cut and not try to force it. Forcing it on the edge like that its easy to lose control and tilt the plane just a bit and it's going to dig. I assume by the way it's digging you are right handed and letting the left hand not guide the front of the plane but using it to force the front of the plane down towards the wood.
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
I encountered a fellow in a shop in Nicaragua trying to smooth a large board with a hand plane. It was not going well. I asked the owner if I could buy the piece of wood the employee was struggling with. I was interested in using it for a relief carving. The owner agreed and priced it at US$5. Not bad for a 16" x 28" piece of exotic wood (genizaro = monkeypod). That solved the planing problem for the employee!

My traveling companions said, "You'll never get that wood on the airplane!" It was too big for my suitcase. As I walked up the stairs to the plane, the pilot was at the door. "Nice piece of wood!" he said, and waved my on board.
 
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