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Veneer from plane shavings

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Forum topic by JADobson posted 11-05-2018 03:19 AM 460 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JADobson

1443 posts in 2530 days


11-05-2018 03:19 AM

Was just playing around in the shop today and made my first few experiments with veneer. I only had one type of commercial veneer (walnut) and wanted another to contrast with it. I grabbed my LAJ and planes a thick shaving equal to the thickness of the veneer from a piece of scrap QSWO. I uncurled the shaving in very hot water and then let it dry under weight to keep it flat. The design went together fine but as soon as I tried to scrape it with my card scraper the oak tore out really bad. I had to scrap the whole piece because it was unsalvageable. (Just an experiment though I was starting to thick it could have a use).

My thought is that the curve that plane blade puts on the shaving as it cuts breaks the fibres making them prone to tearing out later even with something as safe as a card scraper. Or is oak just a bad species to try this with? Anyone successfully used plane shavings as a veneer on a small project?

(If anyone is interested I was trying to make a starburst pattern to fit on the drawer front (within the inlaid border) of my crib boards. See my projects for an example).

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany — Instagram @grailwoodworks


6 replies so far

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lumbering_on

578 posts in 909 days


#1 posted 11-05-2018 04:32 AM

I would think that there just isn’t enough material in a shaving to keep it from tearing. Think of the difference of trying to pull apart a sewing thread, now try that with 20. It’s pretty much the same idea. You’re spreading the force across very few wood fibers with the shavings vs a lot of fibers with a piece of veneer. I imagine there maybe some wood that you could do it with, but I have no clue how you’d find out which spices it would be.

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JADobson

1443 posts in 2530 days


#2 posted 11-05-2018 11:49 AM

Keep in mind that this wasn’t a smoothing plane wisp of a shaving. This was the thickest shaving I could take with my jack plane. It was at least as thick as the commercial veneer if not thicker.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany — Instagram @grailwoodworks

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OSU55

2357 posts in 2408 days


#3 posted 11-05-2018 01:08 PM

Interesting experiment. Do you have a gage to measure the thickness- calipers? Fairly cheap to buy $25. Pretty tough to plane oak and get a very thick shaving, and one that did not have “holes” of negative grain. A tighter grained wood like cherry or maple might stay together better. What bevel angle are you using? Tend to agree with your theory of breaking fibers so a low angle, maybe below 25deg needed. Very tight mouth to limit tear out.

Havent done any bending but heat is supposed to allow wood to bend, not moisture. Plane hot wood? Boil the wood then plane it? Just ideas.

View Tony1212's profile

Tony1212

321 posts in 2153 days


#4 posted 11-05-2018 02:56 PM

Within the last week or so, Pask Makes on youtube made a video that uses plane shavings as a lamp shade.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzl9P5sfrmw

He used a water based finish to get them to lay out flat, but the video did not show him sanding or scraping the shavings.

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

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diverlloyd

3527 posts in 2276 days


#5 posted 11-05-2018 03:34 PM

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TxvOMHoLRBY

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qSPob8zm77Q

The Japanese have been doing it for quite a while. First link is a starter the second explains that they iron the shavings flat before use.

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shipwright

8320 posts in 3217 days


#6 posted 11-05-2018 03:51 PM

This illustrates one of the reasons why sawn veneer is superior to sliced veneer. All sliced veneer has very tiny fractures from the action of the knife just as you describe. Sawn veneer obviously does not.
The difference between commercially sliced veneer and yours is that commercial veneer is cut from logs or billets that have been seriously hydrated (boiled, steamed) to soften them before slicing. I can’t say that is your whole problem but it is certainly a clue.
This incidentally is also why sliced figured veneer is seldom flat after it dries out.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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