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How to fill in a rectangular opening

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Forum topic by Joel_B posted 10-27-2018 08:12 PM 729 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Joel_B

370 posts in 1943 days


10-27-2018 08:12 PM

I am remodeling my kitchen cabinets, putting on new doors, drawers and painting.
My wife wants me to get rid of the opening for the cutting board so it just looks smooth.
I am trying to figure out how to do it.
My best idea so far would be to cut a rectangular piece as close as possible to the opening.
The opening is somewhat rough and the ends are not straight so for sure there will be gaps that I will have use filler on. I could try get as close as possible by using bandsaw and/or files.
To attach the filler piece am thinking of using Gorilla glue and double sided tape to align with the front of the cabinet.
The filler piece would be taped to a flat board that will held against the cabinet.
Not sure if the Gorilla will bond since there will no clamping pressure. My thought is that since it foams up it will expand into the gap. Another thought is to use an epoxy wood filler that I have use on exterior wood that was termite damaged. Its pretty messy so would rather not use it. Here is picture of the opening.

Thanks!

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA


14 replies so far

View clin's profile

clin

1072 posts in 1558 days


#1 posted 10-27-2018 08:38 PM

I’d cut a piece just a bit oversized. Then trim the piece by hand as needed using a block plane or just sanding. You should be able to get a tight enough where common wood glue would work fine.

The idea of temporarily attaching to a piece to get it to register against the front makes sense. Though I’d just screw or tack it to that though tape would work. I asumue you are painting this so gaps or any holes are easily filled.

Another way is to taper the sides of the fill piece so it wedges in the hole. It will then be proud of the surface. At that point get out a hand plane and bring it down flush to the surface.

Regardless, I would think you could have narrow enough gaps that any sort of filler, even spackling compound, would work fine. Once sanded and painted, it should be invisible.

-- Clin

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1461 days


#2 posted 10-28-2018 03:54 AM

Take the wood rails that hold the cutting board out.
On the back of the face frame mount a board over the rectangle hole.
Cut a block to fit in the rectangle hole, as close as you can, then glue and screw it to the block you put on.
(screw it in from behind)
Then Bondo the face.

View Tony_S's profile

Tony_S

1046 posts in 3645 days


#3 posted 10-28-2018 10:39 AM



Take the wood rails that hold the cutting board out.
On the back of the face frame mount a board over the rectangle hole.
Cut a block to fit in the rectangle hole, as close as you can, then glue and screw it to the block you put on.
(screw it in from behind)
Then Bondo the face.

- jbay

LJ fail….
You’ve completely ignored the necessity to complicate the hell out of a simple task with your answer :(

-- “Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something.” – Plato

View Underdog's profile

Underdog

1414 posts in 2597 days


#4 posted 10-28-2018 12:31 PM



LJ fail….
You ve completely ignored the necessity to complicate the hell out of a simple task with your answer :(

- Tony_S

LOL! You guys kill me….

-- Jim, Georgia, USA

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5570 posts in 2913 days


#5 posted 10-28-2018 12:54 PM

Cut a piece oversize and taper it into a wedge, put some glue on it and tap it into place then plane it flush with the front of the cabinet.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

3064 posts in 1784 days


#6 posted 10-28-2018 02:01 PM

I’d re-negotiate the terms of the end-design and opt for a decorative overlay of some contrasting material/finish. It’ll take about 1/10th the time and no ever-reappearing cracks to deal with.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8800 posts in 3139 days


#7 posted 10-28-2018 02:27 PM

If it’s paint grade nail the cutting board flush and Bondo the gaps sand prime and paint.

Might have to cut some wedges to fill in the bigger gaps.

Done

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5783 posts in 3805 days


#8 posted 10-28-2018 03:07 PM

I second the tapered plug answer.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

11908 posts in 3990 days


#9 posted 10-28-2018 03:30 PM

Third the tapered plug, with an added suggestion. Start with a slightly thicker piece than you need and plane a taper to that, also.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

7511 posts in 3929 days


#10 posted 10-28-2018 05:42 PM

I believe that there is a majority opinion on the tapered plug, nuff said!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View Joel_B's profile

Joel_B

370 posts in 1943 days


#11 posted 10-29-2018 01:58 AM

Ok going with the tapered plug.
Would have never thought of that.

Thanks All!

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

3081 posts in 2587 days


#12 posted 10-29-2018 03:16 AM

I’m with splinter group on this one. A decorative piece, maybe with a bit of edge molding, to cover, not fill the hole.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Robert's profile

Robert

3571 posts in 2042 days


#13 posted 10-29-2018 02:03 PM

Construction adhesive and Bondo…..

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View pottz's profile

pottz

7034 posts in 1546 days


#14 posted 10-29-2018 11:09 PM



Take the wood rails that hold the cutting board out.
On the back of the face frame mount a board over the rectangle hole.
Cut a block to fit in the rectangle hole, as close as you can, then glue and screw it to the block you put on.
(screw it in from behind)
Then Bondo the face.

- jbay


+1

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

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