LumberJocks

Best finish to make figured maple pop?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Finishing forum

Forum topic by Andybb posted 10-25-2018 08:03 PM 954 views 2 times favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1932 posts in 1023 days


10-25-2018 08:03 PM

I know I’m opening a can of worms cuz finishing methods are like something that everybody has but…

Coming down to the final stages of our bassinet project. I was originally going to finish this with GF oil/poly semi gloss but on my test pieces it just doesn’t seem to add much pop. I’ve considered Chas. Neils trace coat technique to bring out the figure. Someone at work recommended Waterlox. Never used it before. Any suggestions? Maybe trace coat then Waterlox. I want to retain the “wood” feel so I don’t want to finish it with laquer or wb poly.

-- Andy - Seattle USA


27 replies so far

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

3599 posts in 3604 days


#1 posted 10-25-2018 08:17 PM

I’m curious to hear what you end up using. I’ve used waterlox on curly maple before, and it came out decent but not as “popped” as I’ve seen on other projects:

https://imgur.com/a/4lH8T

I’d be curious to try aniline dyes and/or shellac.

-- Allen, Colorado (Instagram @bobasaurus_woodworking)

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1932 posts in 1023 days


#2 posted 10-25-2018 08:26 PM


I d be curious to try aniline dyes and/or shellac.
- bobasaurus

Your box looks great. What did you use on that?

I have transtint liquid amber but it makes it too yellow for my tastes. I also have some powdered aniline brown dye. Maybe dye it then shellac then the waterlox? Or is the shellac overkill and not going to add much chatoyance.

I just don’t seem to get the same effect as these guys even allowing for the fact that it’s different wood.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

4045 posts in 2409 days


#3 posted 10-25-2018 09:01 PM

Remember to trial on some scrap pieces.

View tomsteve's profile

tomsteve

958 posts in 1639 days


#4 posted 10-25-2018 09:08 PM

my goto is homestead early american dry dye to make figured maple pop. topped with a gloss poly

View pottz's profile

pottz

5552 posts in 1404 days


#5 posted 10-25-2018 09:34 PM

im with you about retaining the wood feel so my go to for just about everything i make is the maloof blend oil finish.you can put on as many coats as you want and it usually brings out the essence of the wood.just try some on a scrap to see if it does what you want.i also rarely use dyes or tints because i like the natural look.hopefully this thread doesn’t start another argument-LOL.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View lumbering_on's profile

lumbering_on

578 posts in 910 days


#6 posted 10-25-2018 10:06 PM

If you’re going to use dye, I say go bold.

:)

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1932 posts in 1023 days


#7 posted 10-25-2018 10:12 PM



If you re going to use dye, I say go bold.

:)
- lumbering_on


I like the look, just not what I had in mind for the bassinet. :-)

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

1497 posts in 1914 days


#8 posted 10-26-2018 12:51 AM

+1 Go Bold:

Click for details: Purple Zebra Musical Jewelry Box

When I am not adding dye to figured maple, I find using a ‘grain sealer’ before using Arm-R-Seal highlights grain more than Arm-R-Seal alone?
If you have dry time, BLO adds more color and best contrast. I like to wipe on 50:50 BLO:MS to reduce amount of oil left on wood before rubbing it out to even intensity, plus to reduce drying/weeping time.
Or a 1 lb cut of blonde shellac adds less color, and can improve figure.

BTW – Post sealer sanding intensity can also make difference in appearance.

Every figured board is different as to what works best, so test on scraps before deciding. :)

Best Luck!

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2359 posts in 2409 days


#9 posted 10-26-2018 01:14 AM

Oh there are so many ways. Very dependant on just what look you want and how simple you want or complicated you are willing to get. I have several turned bowls and platters in my LJ projects you can lookat. If you see something you like and it doesnt have the finish schedule listed I can probably dig it up. As for close to the grain finishes my favorite is mw ob poly thinned 1:1 with ms and done just like danish oil, flood on, keep wet for ~ 10 min, wipe off. A LOT can be done buy just mixing a little dye in with the poly. Requires testing to get just the right look but otherwise very easy. More color difference can be had with a darker dye 1st, sand back, then poly over it. Its all in the details.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1932 posts in 1023 days


#10 posted 10-26-2018 01:16 AM

First tests have shown that plain BLO and plain GF look about the same with BLO maybe having the slight edge. I hate finishing and the logarithmic combos there can be.

I’m leaning towards a coat or two of brown dye, sand down with 220 to remove most of it then a coat or 2 of shellac then 3 coats of GF oil/poly. Sanding with steel wool, gray abrasive pads or 400 grit between coats. Then a wax buff. Maybe the shellac is unnecessary?

Anybody see any major flaws in that thinking??

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View lumbering_on's profile

lumbering_on

578 posts in 910 days


#11 posted 10-26-2018 01:25 AM



Oh there are so many ways. Very dependant on just what look you want and how simple you want or complicated you are willing to get. I have several turned bowls and platters in my LJ projects you can lookat. If you see something you like and it doesnt have the finish schedule listed I can probably dig it up. As for close to the grain finishes my favorite is mw ob poly thinned 1:1 with ms and done just like danish oil, flood on, keep wet for ~ 10 min, wipe off. A LOT can be done buy just mixing a little dye in with the poly. Requires testing to get just the right look but otherwise very easy. More color difference can be had with a darker dye 1st, sand back, then poly over it. Its all in the details.

- OSU55

Can you use a water-based poly with an aniline dye? I’ve normally just use the dye and then a poly over, but if you can mix it directly that would be ideal.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1932 posts in 1023 days


#12 posted 10-26-2018 01:28 AM

Can you use a water-based poly with an aniline dye? I ve normally just use the dye and then a poly over, but if you can mix it directly that would be ideal.

- lumbering_on

Seems like a little dye is called for to bring out the figure. From what I’ve read you use shellac over the dye because the wb poly will dissolve the dye. But since I’m using an oil finish I might not need it, but it probably can’t hurt.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2359 posts in 2409 days


#13 posted 10-26-2018 01:42 AM

Well…... wb dye sanded back unber ob poly (arm r seal, mw), fine shouldnt be a problem. As for mixing dye into ob poly it must be an ob dye. There are many types of dye available, depends on the solvent.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1932 posts in 1023 days


#14 posted 10-26-2018 01:44 AM


Well…... wb dye sanded back unber ob poly (arm r seal, mw), fine shouldnt be a problem. As for mixing dye into ob poly it must be an ob dye. There are many types of dye available, depends on the solvent.

- OSU55


Mine is a water based powder. I’m trying to use the KISS keep it simple stupid route. If anything I’d add a few drops of amber transtint to the dye mixture.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2359 posts in 2409 days


#15 posted 10-26-2018 11:50 AM

The wb dye should work, but TEST. Always test any new combination of chemicals before using them on a project. The same dye will be ok, but a significant change in intensity or different colors may not do what is expected. If an ob poly is the top coat no shellac is needed and ob poly provides a lot of chatoyance – which is dependent on gloss level. Using wb finish over wb dye, apply shellac after dye to seal it otherwise some of the dye may lift

showing 1 through 15 of 27 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com