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Removing Glue from Inside of Miter Joints

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Forum topic by DerekW posted 10-13-2018 09:05 PM 526 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DerekW

30 posts in 361 days


10-13-2018 09:05 PM

I made a couple of boxes out of birdseye maple and, after cutting off the lids, was disappointed to find that I had significant glue squeeze out on the inside corners of the miter joints. I was thinking about scraping the glue off of the inside corners using a cabinet scraper with a not-so-aggressive 5 degree burr but, because I’ll be scraping across grain, I’m afraid of leaving unsightly scratches. I’ve also considered using a chisel to scrape off the glue but again, I’m afraid of scratching the surface. Any ideas on a way to get rid of the hardened glue? The interior dimensions of the box are 2” x 2” x 2”, so I don’t have a lot of room to work in. As a last resort, I can flock the inside of the box to hide the glue (or any scratches I make), but I’d prefer to leave the inside as raw wood. I plan to finish the box with Tried and Tru Danish Oil. Thanks in advance.


8 replies so far

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AandCstyle

3214 posts in 2676 days


#1 posted 10-13-2018 09:17 PM

Derek, I use a slightly dull chisel because I know of any better method. I’m afraid your box will be flocked.

-- Art

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3536 posts in 1806 days


#2 posted 10-13-2018 09:26 PM

I sometimes use a sharp knife or even a razor blade to carefully cut/scrape the glue out, especially if I cannot get a chisel in there.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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000

2859 posts in 1318 days


#3 posted 10-13-2018 09:44 PM

Chisel from both of the sides (going with the grain) into the corner. Move up the joint for each stroke.
Light taps.
Clean up with sandpaper.

View Rich's profile

Rich

4555 posts in 1008 days


#4 posted 10-13-2018 10:08 PM

I would try softening it. Some options are denatured alcohol, acetone and vinegar. Try putting tape wherever you need to form a dam and lay a small puddle down so the glue is submerged. It’s hard to say how long it might take, but I’d check it after five minutes or so to gauge the progress. Hopefully it will eventually come away cleanly with a light pass with a chisel.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

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Andre

2668 posts in 2225 days


#5 posted 10-13-2018 10:45 PM

Trick I was shown, when doing final assembly to test clamp, rub down joints with a finishing wax.
( I use Chapmans ) then when glue is setting, after 30 min or so, just peel excess glue out, even after a couple of hours glue will peel out quite easily. To remove wax a quick rub with DNA or Shellac if that is what the finish will be
then apply whatever finish you want.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View lumbering_on's profile

lumbering_on

578 posts in 909 days


#6 posted 10-13-2018 10:49 PM

I’ve been able to take glue off with a plastic putty knife before. It doesn’t scratch the surface, although it can some indents, which aren’t normally noticeable, especially in a corner.

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2728 posts in 1641 days


#7 posted 10-13-2018 10:57 PM

I use Andre’s idea with great success. Of course these are pre-dry/pre-glueup tricks. Another is to cut a coffee stirrer straw off at an angle and use it to scoop up the semi dried glue.

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

8320 posts in 3217 days


#8 posted 10-14-2018 12:31 AM

Not much help on this box but if you were using hide glue, either hot or liquid, you would not be asking this question. It cleans up with water and does not block finish like pva.
If you are interested, check this blog series.
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/series/5437

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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