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Looking at LN dovetails saws

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Forum topic by AlaskaGuy posted 10-02-2018 11:34 PM 809 views 0 times favorited 36 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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AlaskaGuy

5196 posts in 2640 days


10-02-2018 11:34 PM

They have two models. The (for lack of a better description) a regular western type and Tapered Dovetail Saw (western style).

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4145/dovetail-saws

What is the superposed advantage to the tapered saw.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!


36 replies so far

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lumbering_on

578 posts in 821 days


#1 posted 10-02-2018 11:36 PM

Other than the fact they get to sell you two saws?

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furniturebob

1 post in 202 days


#2 posted 10-02-2018 11:37 PM

i will tell you, once you have used a Japanese pull saw, you will never go back. Way better than any of the western saws.

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AlaskaGuy

5196 posts in 2640 days


#3 posted 10-02-2018 11:48 PM



i will tell you, once you have used a Japanese pull saw, you will never go back. Way better than any of the western saws.

- furniturebob


I have 3 Japanese pulls saws not but they are all of the crosscut variety. I know they make one with a rip teeth for dovetailing but I can seem to find it online at the moment.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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Aj2

2131 posts in 2129 days


#4 posted 10-03-2018 12:47 AM

Both good saw that are resharpenable unlike a jap saw that gets thrown away when it gets dull. The tapered plate helps minimize over sawing on the side you can’t see. I do over saw when the wood is soft. When it really matters I’m more careful.

-- Aj

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mahdee

4194 posts in 2098 days


#5 posted 10-03-2018 01:02 AM

I just refuse to pay that much money to cut a dovetail when you can use band saw jigs, table saw jigs, cross cuts, bow saws, etc, etc to achieve the same result. I use a HD cross cut saw to make my dovetails; yes, it is not as smooth and yes it can eat your thumbnail out and yes, it is too long, and yes…..... However, the same amount of practice on that saw will give you the same result as a $200 “dovetail saw”. You still have to clean it out with chisels and make if fit tight. So, what is the difference between having to remove 1/32” of wood for a tight fit dovetail vs. 1/8” Other than a decently sharp chisel??
I think I just burst my own bubble because I’ve been wanting to burn some money on those nice looking “dovetail” saws.
Sorry.

-- earthartandfoods.com

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AlaskaGuy

5196 posts in 2640 days


#6 posted 10-03-2018 01:11 AM



Both good saw that are resharpenable unlike a jap saw that gets thrown away when it gets dull. The tapered plate helps minimize over sawing on the side you can’t see. I do over saw when the wood is soft. When it really matters I’m more careful.

- Aj2


Thanks, I actually leaning toward getting the LN and a Japanese with the rip cut.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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waho6o9

8626 posts in 2908 days


#7 posted 10-03-2018 01:14 AM

https://www.workshopheaven.com/gyokucho-japanese-saws-deluxe-set.html

I like this set from Work Sharp Heaven ^ and I’m sure the Lie Nielsen are worth the money as well.

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AlaskaGuy

5196 posts in 2640 days


#8 posted 10-03-2018 01:18 AM



I just refuse to pay that much money to cut a dovetail when you can use band saw jigs, table saw jigs, cross cuts, bow saws, etc, etc to achieve the same result. I use a HD cross cut saw to make my dovetails; yes, it is not as smooth and yes it can eat your thumbnail out and yes, it is too long, and yes…..... However, the same amount of practice on that saw will give you the same result as a $200 “dovetail saw”. You still have to clean it out with chisels and make if fit tight. So, what is the difference between having to remove 1/32” of wood for a tight fit dovetail vs. 1/8” Other than a decently sharp chisel??
I think I just burst my own bubble because I ve been wanting to burn some money on those nice looking “dovetail” saws.
Sorry.

- mahdee


Thanks for you thought. I’m 74 years old and I don’t plan to “take it with me”. My financial advisor says I need to spend some money. Plus you know they pay us to live in Alaska. Oct the 9th is permanent fund day and I’ll be receiving 3,200 dollars as my share of the Alaskan oil profits.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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AlaskaGuy

5196 posts in 2640 days


#9 posted 10-03-2018 01:22 AM


https://www.workshopheaven.com/gyokucho-japanese-saws-deluxe-set.html

I like this set from Work Sharp Heaven ^ and I m sure the Lie Nielsen are worth the money as well.

- waho6o9


Thanks, I be checking that out too. Do any of those have rip teeth suitable for dovetail cutting?

Where is that company located at?

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1975 posts in 2225 days


#10 posted 10-03-2018 01:39 AM

AG – since you asked about a Japanese saw for dovetails, after many recommendations for the Gyokucho 372, I bought one and it’s all I use now for those.

I used to saw with the non-tapered L-N dovetail saw and still have it. After trying the Japanese saw, I found it suited me better as far as the mechanical action of sawing goes. I have one more Japanese saw for crosscuts, otherwise I have no other Japanese tools.

This is why I prefer the 372 for dovetails:

1.) More narrow kerf
2.) Greater TPI. I believe it’s 19 vs. 15 for the L-N.
3.) Cutting on the pull stroke helps me, initially, to follow a straight line right on the line. It’s a subtle difference and maybe it’s psychological, I don’t know. All I know is that I can do it better. Actually, this becomes more of an issue with crosscutting wider boards vs. dovetails. I mean following a line on the top, not one going down the side.

Yes, you will have to replace blades instead of resharpening them. But you will have to go through 5 blades to finally top the cost of the L-N saw (which is close to $140 when you throw in shipping), which will definitely last more than one user’s lifetime. But your own lifetime? I don’t know how old you are now, but if you started as a teenager and cut dovetails regularly for 75 years with a Japanese saw – yeah, you would be spending more than the L-N saw. And you won’t have a family heirloom when you’re dead. I’m not gonna run into that problem because I don’t cut dovetails every day or every week or even every month and I don’t have kids. After three years I’m still on my first blade, I don’t see any signs of it being dull.

Anyway, I’ve never heard anyone say the L-N saw was bad. I’m not saying that, either. All I’m saying is that I found one that was better for me. A Japanese saw might not be the best thing for you.

Are you around any L-N event when they tour the country? They bring everything and you can try everything, I highly recommend going to one if you’re gonna spend that kind of money on their tools and can’t get to Maine. I’ve found out after trying stuff that I liked certain tools I never thought I’d like and disliked others I thought I would like. Either way, I’ve ended up poorer after it was over. I love L-N.

Ooops – just remembered you’re in Alaska. Idiot <—- me. I doubt any L-N event comes closer to you than Seattle.

Good luck!

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

5196 posts in 2640 days


#11 posted 10-03-2018 01:51 AM



AG – since you asked about a Japanese saw for dovetails, after many recommendations for the Gyokucho 372, I bought one and it s all I use now for those.

I used to saw with the non-tapered L-N dovetail saw and still have it. After trying the Japanese saw, I found it suited me better as far as the mechanical action of sawing goes. I have one more Japanese saw for crosscuts, otherwise I have no other Japanese tools.

This is why I prefer the 372 for dovetails:

1.) More narrow kerf
2.) Greater TPI. I believe it s 19 vs. 15 for the L-N.
3.) Cutting on the pull stroke helps me, initially, to follow a straight line right on the line. It s a subtle difference and maybe it s psychological, I don t know. All I know is that I can do it better. Actually, this becomes more of an issue with crosscutting wider boards vs. dovetails. I mean following a line on the top, not one going down the side.

Yes, you will have to replace blades instead of resharpening them. But you will have to go through 5 blades to finally top the cost of the L-N saw (which is close to $140 when you throw in shipping), which will definitely last more than one user s lifetime. But your own lifetime? I don t know how old you are now, but if you started as a teenager and cut dovetails regularly for 75 years – yeah, you would be spending more than the L-N saw. And you won t have a family heirloom when you re dead. I m not gonna run into that problem because I don t cut dovetails every day or every week or even every month and I don t have kids. After three years I m still on my first blade, I don t see any signs of it being dull.

Anyway, I ve never heard anyone say the L-N saw was bad. I m not saying that, either. All I m saying is that I found one that was better for me.

Are you around any L-N event when they tour the country? They bring everything and you can try everything, I highly recommend going to one if you re gonna spend that kind of money on their tools and can t get to Maine. I ve found out after trying stuff that I liked certain tools I never thought I d like and disliked others I thought I would like.

Good luck!

- ColonelTravis


Thanks, I knew someone would jog my memory on which Japanese saw I wanted. I remember that saw recommend a few times before but couldn’t remember which one it was. So, I’m going to go with the 372 and see how it goes before ordering a saw from LN>

BTW I haven’t done a lot of hand cut dovetail but the need are finally arrived that if I am to ever finish my current project I really need to learn to do hand cut 1/2 blind dovetails

Thank you sir!

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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TheFridge

10852 posts in 1817 days


#12 posted 10-03-2018 02:05 AM

I have the LN but have since made my own with an alder handle :)

The tapered has a thinner plate .015 I believe. Smaller kerf. Nice saw.

I know many are fans of pull saws. I’m not one.

The LN is for 1/2”+ stock. The homemade one is for thin stock.

Hell. I’d make you one for half the cost of a LN.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

5196 posts in 2640 days


#13 posted 10-03-2018 02:11 AM



I have the LN but have since made my own with an alder handle :)

The tapered has a thinner plate .015 I believe. Smaller kerf. Nice saw.

I know many are fans of pull saws. I’m not one.

The LN is for 1/2”+ stock. The homemade one is for thin stock.

- TheFridge


Well hell I may have to get both of them. But I’ll the 372 first and see. Aren’t saw like routers and clamps?

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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TheFridge

10852 posts in 1817 days


#14 posted 10-03-2018 02:19 AM

I would say no. Then I realize I have a half dozen saws I’ve never even used :|

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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AlaskaGuy

5196 posts in 2640 days


#15 posted 10-03-2018 02:24 AM



I would say no. Then I realize I have a half dozen saws I’ve never even used :|

- TheFridge


You know what they say. Being prepared when the need arises is best.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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