Jet 1014 Lathe - replacement motor upgrade (JWL1220-135)?

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Forum topic by MUST58GT posted 10-01-2018 04:04 PM 1156 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View MUST58GT's profile


108 posts in 835 days

10-01-2018 04:04 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jet 1014 replacement motor

Bought a used Jet 1014 lathe recently. After working on several pieces, I noticed a slight odor coming from the motor windings. On this forum, several folks indicated the starting capacitor might be the problem. I found a near-equivalent at the local Grainger store and replaced that first. The motor started and ran slightly better but torque is still not the same so I suspect the winding are burned.

One of the parts websites lists the Jet JWL1220-135 motor as a mechanical equivalent and it’s 3/4 hp! Has anyone tried this option? It’s a bit spendy (~$327 at Jet) but am tempted to bite the bullet and go for the add’l hp.

Otherwise, I’d really like to find a used JWL-35 from a 1014 motor (or JWL1220-135) to minimize the cost. Does anyone possibly have one they’re interested in selling after upgrading to variable speed?

Any guidance appreciated … thanks, Richard

-- Richard, Austin TX - "Every repair job is really just an upgrade oppty in disguise!"

5 replies so far

View Wildwood's profile


2794 posts in 2743 days

#1 posted 10-01-2018 09:08 PM

Trip to electric motor shop for rebuild might be the least expensive option!

-- Bill

View Nubsnstubs's profile


1662 posts in 2338 days

#2 posted 10-01-2018 10:42 PM

You’re already buying stuff from Graingers. If you can’t find a motor there, you ain’t ever gonna find one. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View Newbie17's profile


37 posts in 1069 days

#3 posted 12-18-2019 03:47 AM

What did you end up doing? I’m in the same predicament. It appears the JWL1220-135 Motor might fit in the 1014.

View JoeK1's profile


25 posts in 1023 days

#4 posted 12-19-2019 05:57 PM

I believe the motor is a Permanent Capacitor Motor, meaning that the capacitor and starting winding are always in the circuit = lower cost design and smaller physical size motor. Their is no centrifugal switch or relay to drop out the starting winding. This design depends on the impedance of the system to control current flow in the starting winding during normal running operation. Therefore microfarad value of the capacitor is very important. Increasing the value will allow higher current which will be in opposition of the running windings therefore higher heat is generated and less power output of the motor. A lower value will result in lower starting torque performance. The starting torque is already low, just hold the hand wheel and apply power for less that a second. There is no difficulty in preventing the motor from turning. Don’t try that with a DC motor, normal split phase or capacitor start motor.

Personal experience: I had a 1014 that the performance degraded and developed noise in startup and running. I was using a heavy chuck 6+ lbs and wet wood and probably overstressed the capacitor with the high inertial load on start up. I have a expensive meter that will measure capacitance and the value checked out but at a much lower voltage. I couldn’t locate a direct replacement capacitor that would fit under the motor cover, the Jet was $35 + shipping. I tried a couple of other capacitors that were close in value and couldn’t eliminate the problem. I gave up and got the jet replacement and problem went away. Not saying that this is the cure for your situation.

View MUST58GT's profile


108 posts in 835 days

#5 posted 12-20-2019 09:53 AM

What did you end up doing? I’m in the same predicament. It appears the JWL1220-135 Motor might fit in the 1014.

- Newbie17

Took the motor to a local electric motor repair shop and they determined it needed a new cap. They sold me a replacement (although a bit larger and wouldn’t fit into the original metal cover) and my 1014 works great now. Since it was larger, I just tie-wrapped it to the back of the motor.

Suggest starting there too, caps are high potential points of failure points and relatively inexpensive.

-- Richard, Austin TX - "Every repair job is really just an upgrade oppty in disguise!"

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