Small cracks throughout. How to fill

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Forum topic by alliz86 posted 09-24-2018 09:12 PM 525 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View alliz86's profile


3 posts in 685 days

09-24-2018 09:12 PM

Hi everyone! This is my first post and it could have gone under two different sections. Finishing and wood/lumber.
I have a fairly large round slab I’m going to be making a table out of. But, I didn’t get to it for awhile and now I have noticed there’s quite a few small cracks. I am hoping to finish the table off with an oil/wax finish. So how would you go about fixing all these tiny cracks??
Thank you for all and any input!!

5 replies so far

View Phil32's profile


1073 posts in 709 days

#1 posted 09-24-2018 09:31 PM

It is an indication that the wood is still active, i.e. drying, warping, cupping. The cracks are signs of stresses that are being relieved. You could apply some filler/sealer, but it is likely to continue.

Do you know what the wood is? When was it cut to its present dimensions? How thick is the slab?
Is it a burl or end cut?

-- Phil Allin - There are mountain climbers and people who talk about climbing mountains. The climbers have "selfies" at the summit!

View OSU55's profile


2651 posts in 2796 days

#2 posted 09-24-2018 09:52 PM

Agree with above. Do some research on wood moisture content for furniture. Doing anything before the wood has reached equilibrium is a recipe for the gift that keeps on giving.

View alliz86's profile


3 posts in 685 days

#3 posted 09-25-2018 02:10 AM

It’s cross section of parota. It’s about 2 inches thick and 51×56 in diameter, and I’m not sure when it was cut.
I’ll start doing some reading on moisture content for furniture. Thanks for the input!!
Lots left to learn!!

View LesB's profile


2575 posts in 4249 days

#4 posted 09-25-2018 04:12 PM

First off with a cross grain exposure like that if the wood is not dry the cracking will continue and may get worse. It is very difficult to get a cross cut slab to dry without cracks. Also depending on your climate the wood may continue to expand and contract with changes in atmospheric moisture (humidity) from one season to another only aggravating the problem over time. There are wood stabalizer products you can soak the wood in like Polyethylene glycol that will displace the water and pretty much stop the cracking. That would be my first choice to treat the problem then go to the next step below.

I have successfully filled small cracks like that with medium or thick CA glue and to camouflage them better you can first push fine sawdust into them. To get the fine sawdust of the same color just sand the surface with a orbital or belt sander that has a dust collector and use fine sand paper.
If you use the sawdust I suggest packing it in as best you can then add some thin CA glue and quickly add the medium or thick glue. The thin glue saturates the sawdust and wicks the thicker glue in. There may be some color shift in the wood when the glue is put on the wood but it should blend in when you put the finish on.

-- Les B, Oregon

View alliz86's profile


3 posts in 685 days

#5 posted 09-26-2018 03:04 AM

Thanks Les!! Very helpful!

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