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Forum topic by Sparks500 posted 09-13-2018 09:08 PM 784 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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277 posts in 1099 days

09-13-2018 09:08 PM

I’m building a miter saw station and I have 4 30” base cabinets, two for each side. For the tops, Menards has 6’x24” workbench tops made out of particle board, which I’m going to edge with hardwood and top with tempered hardboard. I’d like to glue the hardboard down with something that could be reversed to replace them, what glue would work best?

-- A good day is any day that you're alive....

9 replies so far

View Redoak49's profile


4718 posts in 2757 days

#1 posted 09-13-2018 09:12 PM

I used a couple short counter sunk screws instead of glue. For finish I used shellac and then wax.

View mathguy1981's profile


94 posts in 673 days

#2 posted 09-13-2018 09:39 PM

Don’t use glue. I’ve used hardboard as a “replaceable” top before, and used 1” countersunk screws, worked like a charm.

-- Two thumbs and counting

View Woodknack's profile


13383 posts in 3149 days

#3 posted 09-13-2018 11:43 PM

Hide glue. Ones of it’s qualities is that is can be reheated and the parts taken apart.

-- Rick M,

View WoodenDreams's profile


1065 posts in 679 days

#4 posted 09-15-2018 08:37 AM

Counter sunk screws without glue may by your best option. But if you use glue, Hyde Glue is really the only glue that you can dismantle, just by using a heat gun. Also Hyde Glue will stick to Hyde glue. That’s where I got my 24”x8’ laminated bench top. but I use I as a gluing and clamping table. Easy to remove glue off the lamination.

View Planeman40's profile


1499 posts in 3530 days

#5 posted 09-15-2018 03:19 PM

Yep, keep the hardboard tops removable and I recommend polyurethane as a finish, not shellac. Shellac is a great finish, however it uses alcohol as a solvent. Should you ever drop or spill alcohol on it it will melt. Polyurethane is tougher and more resistant to solvents.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View bondogaposis's profile


5783 posts in 3120 days

#6 posted 09-15-2018 09:34 PM

I guarantee that if you glue it, no matter what type of glue, you will never replace it. It would be far easier to make a new top than to try and separate a glued down top, even hide glue. Use screws, and then the top will be easily replaceable, if you are worried about dinging a chisel or a plane use brass screws.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View 000's profile


2859 posts in 1668 days

#7 posted 09-15-2018 09:39 PM

Use melamine, or cover any substrate (PB, MDF, Ply) with plastic laminate. (formica,etc…)
It will last years and years, you wont have to change it.

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


8080 posts in 2968 days

#8 posted 09-15-2018 11:16 PM

+1 ^^
I have always preferred laminate (Formica) over hardboard. Much more durable than hardboard, doesn’t soak up liquids (like stains or paint), easily cleaned … and you can get whatever look you want, from marble/stone to wood/butcherblock, or just plain solids. Put down with contact cement, it will stay put – but is still relatively easy to replace decades down the road if needed.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Sparks500's profile


277 posts in 1099 days

#9 posted 09-16-2018 01:29 AM

Ok, I was going back and forth, all good suggestions by all of you, went with simple: sheet of MDF with an overlay of white hardboard. Didn’t even know they made white hardboard, and its in stock at HD. 10 bucks a sheet, with 18 for the MDF with a little hide glue around the edges.
Formica would be great, but, I like the idea off running a screw into the top to fasten something down temporarily and not worry about it.
plus, it follows my motto: Easy, cheap, and fast….
Thanks to all of you.

-- A good day is any day that you're alive....

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