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Forum topic by nitehorse | posted 09-08-2018 07:43 PM | 1825 views | 0 times favorited | 10 replies | ![]() |
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09-08-2018 07:43 PM |
I just finished the roughing in of a pole barn type addition to my garage of 14×22. I have perused all the insulation options but just can’t seem to get a good vibe from any of them. For example the ridged foam is costly and requires 1/2 sheetrock over it, Styrofoam shrinks with heat and overtime especially if is up against the metal panels, battens would mean I would have to put 2×6’s on the inside, etc. So if someone has run into the same situation I would appreciate help. VR |
10 replies so far
#1 posted 09-08-2018 09:56 PM |
Pole barns were designed to let farm animals get under shelter, most farmers don’t insulate the walls. Insulation for them is usually either inadequate to make the space livable for humans, or costs so much you can’t afford it. I don’t know what to tell you except checking to see what spray foam insulation’s cost would be for the walls. I built a 32×48 a few years ago, and was thinking pole barn all the way, like you thinking economical….. I ended up with a 32×48 x 12 garage built building on a full concrete slab for 3 grand less than the cheapest pole barn, with no floor, and options to insulate costing me thousands more than regular batt insulation in my walls, and blown in insulation up top. I have r 23 walls, and r 48 roof. Cozy digs. I don’t want to appear like a smarty here, but do not just look at price to put “something” up. Look at a price to attain a certain R value, cause you can spend a fortune on that roll out batting 6’ wide x 50’ long, and end up with an R of less that 5. There is absolutely no level of common sense to that at all. Especially when you consider you would need several rolls just for one layer. After a first layer your options with them are to add additional framing….... You won’t like this, but I’d suggest doing the math to see what lumber costs would be to completely line the area within your pole structure you want to insulate, so if you want the entire thing insulated find out how much for lumber to frame walls inside your pole structure, then insulate conventionally with much lower priced options. Options you can install yourself. You will find the dead space between the sheating of the barn (provided it is tight, and not open to allow air/wind full access,) is going to increase your R yield immensely. Another option is to do nothing, buy a 220 k salamander heater and let her rip, turn it off when you start getting hot, and back and forth. -- Think safe, be safe |
#2 posted 09-09-2018 02:21 AM |
I just finished my building. I have a 30X30 “pole building” with corrugated steel roof and external walls. Like you describe, it was just a shell. I used R-38 bats for the ceiling insulation and I got white corrugated metal to hang up as the ceiling itself. For the insulation and interior walls I used the same thing, white corrugated metal and I mounted it on 2X4 purlins nailed on horizontally on 2 ft centers. Edit: I should add that I have square 6X6 “poles”...if you have round poles in yours you can run the purlins between them and toe nail level with the pole instead of on the face of the pole. This will reduce the space you need to insulate. |
#3 posted 09-09-2018 04:29 AM |
Another thing on a “metal roofed” open building is to check locally with folks who USE them, and find out about rainfall. In SW Ohio it’s not uncommon for uninsulated buildings to actually rain inside when humidity goes way up, and there is a lot of ground moisture. I have been given to understanding in other parts of the country the problem is only after insulating, but same thing, moisture in the building saturates the batt type insulation making it pretty useless. There I think a vapor barrier would fix things. Up here a vapor barrier and insulation will stop the rain. In either case if they are left open, so air can circulate freely it goes away, it’s only when you put in valuables, and keep them locked/closed up you have the problem. -- Think safe, be safe |
#4 posted 09-09-2018 01:09 PM |
Moisture/humidity can be a problem. I have built two buildings, one a cabin on top of a mountain and the other my workshop, that both have metal roofs with exposed metal on the interior. That is to say, I can go up in the attics of either and touch the metal roofing. Many buildings with metal roofs have the roof sheathed with plywood first and have a “barrier” between the metal and the plywood sheathing. |
#5 posted 09-09-2018 02:28 PM |
Jim if you check a local lumberyard i’m sure they can help you out. For pole barns they sell large bats that you fasten at the top and let roll down in between your posts, very slick and easy. Obviously spray foam is a great option also, but more expensive. Around here pole barns are insulated all the time with no issues, many would argue they are insulated better due to not having studs every 16”. heres a link of one example https://www.silvercote.com/products/faced-blanket/ -- if it is to be it is up to me |
#6 posted 09-10-2018 02:35 AM |
Thanks for the helpful options. |
#7 posted 09-10-2018 06:09 AM |
New workshop, lucky you! +1 msinc and therealStevenN statements: Suggest that if your concrete floor does not have a plastic moisture barrier underneath, that you must epoxy seal the concrete (after is fully cured and ground is relatively dry). Concrete floor without moisture barrier is losing battle when trying to control humidity and stop rusting on cast iron tools. Even if it does have vapor barrier, sealing concrete with simple clear sealer will help reduce moisture ‘storage’ in floor when you are not controlling the temp/humidity. Sealing concrete will also improve dust control. Concrete has opens pores that allows dust to hide inside. Sealed floor makes is much easier to prevent dust issues in shop for flawless spray finishing. Best Luck. -- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967 |
#8 posted 09-10-2018 11:07 AM |
Goofy video, but I have heard this is pretty good. I am starting to build and looking into this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fB5CH-834gk -- Dave |
#9 posted 09-10-2018 03:40 PM |
Yes There is 6mil under the slab. I wanted to put ridged foam under also but the mason didn’t think it would matter especially with 5”of stone and 5” of fiberglass concrete. Yes I plan on sealing the floor. |
#10 posted 09-24-2018 12:29 AM |
I am framing out the inside walls to 6” so I get a nice flat interior wall. I was about to put 6” paper faced insulation in the walls. Paper facing on the inside. I got to worrying about the insulation picking up condensation from the metal panels especially if it contacts the metal. And because its out of sight you probably never know it is happening. |
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