Floating Desk Ideas

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Forum topic by deadherring posted 08-30-2018 11:31 PM 895 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View deadherring's profile


106 posts in 2890 days

08-30-2018 11:31 PM

Hi all,

I work from home and am hoping to convince the wife to let me build a floating desk for a more permanent workstation than the current computer cart I am working on.

The picture above shows the corner in which I’d like to build it. I am hoping for between 6-7 feet wide (to the ‘right’ of the 90 degree corner shown ) and between 30-34” deep and then another few feet to the left of the 90 degree corner shown.

I am thinking about using about 1” thick material and have been thinking about using something nice like walnut or mahogany. If that ends up more than I want to spend then maybe pine with a nice stain. Open to ideas.

I am in the researching the best ways to mount the desk and have been browsing the forums to see what others have done. So far I’ve seen a suggestion to use these brackets

I’m wondering if there are other suggestions. Do you think the brackets will be very visible? Thinking I’ll mount the desk at about 30” high.

If anyone knows of good videos or articles showing a build such as this, please send my way.



10 replies so far

View Aj2's profile


4073 posts in 3045 days

#1 posted 08-30-2018 11:46 PM

I think it’s too risky to build a desk or work area that large without aprons or legs.
What’s going to keep the top from sagging or warping?
Don’t make the mistake many others post with their failed builds because they are trying to invent something new.
Aprons look nice and so do legs it’s a time tested furniture construction that works.

-- Aj

View AlaskaGuy's profile


6748 posts in 3556 days

#2 posted 08-31-2018 12:18 AM

When I worked for the school district I made and installed what seemed like miles of computer counter tops down long wall in classrooms using this braces from FastCap many were 24 inch deep. Even with the kids we never had a problem. Maybe not what you’d call a full floating system but it eliminated use of leg and the chairs pretty hide the brackets. They make a 28’’ bracket. I woldn’t be afraid to go 30 inches

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View BFamous's profile


344 posts in 1368 days

#3 posted 08-31-2018 12:46 AM

My floating counter in our half bath is on sturdy metal brackets that are attached directly to the studs behind the drywall, similar to these

It’s more work to knock out and replace the drywall, but I have zero concerns about the brackets failing, and there is nothing to see (or hit your knee on) under the counter.

-- Brian Famous :: Charlotte, NC ::

View deadherring's profile


106 posts in 2890 days

#4 posted 09-02-2018 09:59 PM

Thanks guys, some good suggestions on brackets I could use.

Any thoughts on building the desktop? Should I go with 1 by and glue it together then trim with something thicker to make it look beefier?

I was thinking the offset look looks nice (see the pic below—where the wood side by side is not the same length).

Any ideas or advice or pics of good examples is appreciated!


View squazo's profile


303 posts in 2892 days

#5 posted 08-13-2021 03:57 PM

get some metal corner brackets. big old stupid thick ones.

View MikeJ70's profile


108 posts in 1194 days

#6 posted 08-13-2021 04:02 PM

If you want a butcher block style like the pic above, I would go at least 1-1/2” thick and then you should be fine and the brackets you linked in your original post will work, but they will be visible so it is up to you if that is the look you are going for. You should be able to find butcher block tops already made so that would save you a lot of labor.

Another option would be to build it as a torsion box. This would allow you to hide the brackets (I would look at the ones ogb linked) and also give you space to add some drawers for storage.

-- MikeJ

View therealSteveN's profile


8900 posts in 1821 days

#7 posted 08-13-2021 04:19 PM

The SpeedBrace's that AK linked to are an industry standard way to use the strength of a wall, to support a ledge, shelf, or as in your case a work table without legs. At 1000 pounds a pair x 16” OC, they won’t fail you. Virtually any support mode you use to extend a shelf is going to be visible from below, but then so are legs and an apron. The SpeedBraces are made to allow full knee room, and the smallest visible reveal. At 30” height probably only small children will ever see them if you don’t extend the ends out to the edge of the top.

A 5/4 top will get it done. As for design I’d say the look of a Walnut tabletop would be rich, and very business like. Keep the butcher block in the kitchen.

-- Think safe, be safe

View gerrym526's profile


331 posts in 5055 days

#8 posted 09-26-2021 05:24 PM

I would focus on a much lighter desk that would be easier to fasten to the wall. How about considering building a torsion box frame out of 1/2 inch thick material cut to 1 inch width (vertically oriented). Then “skin the top and bottom with veneer plywood in the wood species you want, and cut and fasten solid wood borders to the side and front.

You also mention fastening it at a 30 inch height. I wouldn’t recommend that if you do lots of “moving the mouse and keyboard typing” work-guaranteed to give you carpal tunnel or arthritis. Google “computer desk ergonomics” for the right measurements on height of the desk, and keyboard/mouse tray height-they will be different, and you should make allowance for a keyboard/mouse tray in the design.

Hope this helps.

-- Gerry

View Francisco Luna's profile

Francisco Luna

1051 posts in 4640 days

#9 posted 09-26-2021 10:25 PM

A self standing desk goes better in that particular room…something hanging on the wall its gonna look weird.
IKEA sells cool legs….:))

-- "Menos es mas" Ludwing Mies Van Der Rohe

View jkm312's profile


108 posts in 650 days

#10 posted 09-26-2021 11:37 PM

If you are looking for slabs, perhaps look at what Grizzley offers ready made, it will be maple. Staining any maple can be a nightmare. If you want to keep the wooden top protected, consider 1/4 plate glass tops with polished edges. Maybe not for the entire length, but in the area where you will spend most of your time. I would look into metal brackets with gussets mounted on strategic wall studs. Even if you have to have them made up to fit your sizes, might be worth it if you or your wife are dead set against legs. Prime them and paint them whatever colors your wife chooses. Just a thought.

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