Fence upgrade for Ridged TS2424

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by GapDragon posted 08-28-2018 05:39 PM 1107 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View GapDragon's profile


2 posts in 516 days

08-28-2018 05:39 PM

I don’t like fences that lock to front and back. So I need to get a fence that just locks in the front. Any suggestions?

On another topic, my table extensions are not solid , they are cast iron but have honey comb openings in them. I am going to try to lower them enough to put steel plates on them. What would be the best way to attach the steel plates?



-- John, NE FL

13 replies so far

View therealSteveN's profile


4655 posts in 1183 days

#1 posted 08-28-2018 07:10 PM

Hi I have been a long time proponent of the Vega fence system. Technically it has a free floating rear latch, which for me anyhow allows the front (outfeed side of the fence) to lift when you push down anywhere near the locking lever. When you actually lock it then the front is also locked from the standpoint of it doesn’t move, unless you forcefully move it. I can set my fences, and don’t worry about the gap widening. The fact you could force it around must have driven some folks crazy, because they hounded Vega, until they came up with a fix…...I call it the break.

Anyhow a Vega is far superior IMO to a Beis in that they offer a microadjust feature on all of their fences, and have safe use built in through features they offer. Now-a-days safety isn’t what it once was because a guy can buy a saw with a weeny cutting feature, and that means no guards or accessories need to be used, or so it seems to me.

They offer 2 models, one is a more robust PRO model, and they are fine. I have a few of them, but for less $$$ they offer a Vega U for utility fence which is made for contractor saws they have the same heavy duty rail set, but the fence is smaller in size. I just looked at a post by a person who bought the downsized Beis fence for 100 bux more, so I’m pretty sure they are competitive.

I noticed you don’t have any location info in your Bio. For things like this it may be beneficial to add city and state, or at least something like NW state….. so folks here have an idea where you are located. I only say this as I have both a Vega Pro, and a utility both new in the box I would offer for less than Amazoo sells them for, BUT alas I’m not in the shipping biz, so it is cash at the door kinda thing. But someone else may have one to offer, and maybe they do ship, or live down the street.

-- Think safe, be safe

View knotscott's profile


8364 posts in 3985 days

#2 posted 08-29-2018 02:08 AM

The Delta T3 is a good fence and is likely the best bang for the buck at ~ $200 or so. The Vega that therealSteveN mentioned is excellent.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View RDan's profile


133 posts in 2933 days

#3 posted 08-29-2018 02:21 AM

The VEGA Fence would be a good choice or get a T-Glide from Sawstop. I have the T-Glide on my PCS and it is great compared to the one I had on my C-Man saw that was the Align-Rip. You might also check out VerySuperCool tools for there Fence system and plans for making your own rails, would work with the T-Glide too. As for your wings, I would spot weld them on. You might check and see if some solid extension tables would fit too. Dan

View TheFridge's profile


10859 posts in 2095 days

#4 posted 08-29-2018 04:17 AM

I wouldn’t add anymore weight to the extensions. Just doesn’t sound like a good idea to drop them a decrease the surface of the are that are bolted to

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View CaptainKlutz's profile


2260 posts in 2104 days

#5 posted 08-29-2018 06:11 AM

+1 Front and back locking fence can be pain.

There is section on saw fence options in the basics of buying saw portion of the ABC's of Table Saw blog post

FWIW – Found an easy way to fix the Ridgid TS2424 fence to make the front/back clamping mechanism work much better?

Biggest issue with that fence is any difference in parallelism between the front and back along the length gets reflected into ‘out of square’ condition at random places again fence. If your table top and extensions are not exact same width along entire width, extensions are not bolted together exactly aligned, then the weak aluminum fence extrusions will bend to mate with cast iron.

A fix is relatively easy to implement.
Front and Back fences need to have parallelism set during assembly. I also find the back fence extrusion bends too easily, and appears to be source for most of problems.
Try this:
Add a 2×2x1/8 steel angle bar between (and underneath) of the existing rear aluminum fence to increase it’s rigidity. THEN with the front and back fence rail bolts loose, check the distance between front to back and insert shim stock under which ever fence would be pulled out of parallel alignment when bolts are tightened. The process took awhile when 1st attempted it, but made it simple by using a length of cut off from angle iron to be the gauge bar for front to back spacing. What you find is that the extension castings are not flat enough, and with flexibility of back fence, the rail is never straight.

Once the two rails are parallel to each other, 99% of the troubles with that fence clamp system disappear. The fence clamping mechanism has just enough extra length to allow extending the back clamp to make it work.
Only trick I learned to make it work right every time; is make sure you push fence against front rail, before you clamp it down. If back clamp hits first, the fence will move as it is clamped, or will be out square as the back clamp is a single point and front clamp has two points that define the front square to blade condition.

I learned this parallelism trick when I decided to move my TS2424 rails from 24 inch right & 24 inch left spacing to 14 left & 34 right spacing to add router insert and to make cutting cabinet ply panels easier. You can see the extra angle iron in this side photo of my saw.

I used a 2×3 angle here to allow hanging an extension table onto back of saw.

Best Luck!

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View pauljuilleret's profile


107 posts in 2262 days

#6 posted 08-29-2018 09:50 AM

I have the same saw and have been lucky as far as fence issues go. on the outboard extensions here is what I did. It was a quick and easy fix. before I did this band aids were required to be close to the saw for all the pinched and cut fingers I got when moving something over to the far sides of the saw. To fix this I took 1/4 plywood and cut to fit on top of the ribs in the extensions, as they were 1/4” lower than the outside cast iron rim on the extensions. to anchor the plywood section down I just used a bed of caulk to stick them down. this was done several years ago and have not had a problem with them since I did it. you mite have to sand a bit on the plywood so the fence will slide over the plywood hope this helps.

View Robert's profile


3602 posts in 2090 days

#7 posted 08-29-2018 01:34 PM

$300 fence for a $600 machine. Gotta weigh that out. ;-) Just sayin…..

I’d try Cap’n Klutz’s fix.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View CaptainKlutz's profile


2260 posts in 2104 days

#8 posted 08-29-2018 03:02 PM

Regarding the extension wings, Couple of easy options:

1) Craftsman sold several different contractor saws also made by Emerson (like the Ridgid TS2424). Majority of the low cost Sears saws had stamped steel extensions instead of cast iron (and a lighter duty fence). These are all same 27” wide size and can be interchanged as the fence extrusions allowed for easy movement of mounting bolts. These notorious ‘crapsmen’ saws can be found on CL for <$50, and might be cheap way to buy direct bolt on solid surface extensions.

2) There is absolutely no reason that cast iron or even steel extension tables are required. Can make replacement extensions from MDF or plywood with solid wood edge band to hold mounting bolt; and they work just as well for holding lumber on top. The mounting bolts are ~1 inch below the top, and only need to relieve the underside of top panel slightly if using a washer under mounting bolt/nut. Another mounting technique is using 1×1 angle iron under the wood top that the fence rail attaches too. This is common method for 27×24 bolt on router table extensions sold commercially.


-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View therealSteveN's profile


4655 posts in 1183 days

#9 posted 08-30-2018 05:59 AM

$300 fence for a $600 machine. Gotta weigh that out. ;-) Just sayin…..

- rwe2156

Also why I was suggesting he put in location data. I’m sure I am not the only person here with a fence or 3, they wouldn’t mind getting that extra space back from, and a few bucks, never hurt anything. IOW there are fences to be sold out there. but being as big as they are, a PIA to ship, so local sales are the way to go there.

-- Think safe, be safe

View GapDragon's profile


2 posts in 516 days

#10 posted 08-30-2018 01:01 PM

$300 fence for a $600 machine. Gotta weigh that out. ;-) Just sayin…..

I d try Cap n Klutz s fix.

- rwe2156

I intend to get a cabinet saw so I wanted to go ahead and get a good fence that can be used on the cabinet saw.

-- John, NE FL

View GapDragon1's profile


1 post in 516 days

#11 posted 03-13-2019 03:53 PM

I am going to get the INCRA TS-LS 32” or 52” fence system. It costs a lot but I will be able to use it on the cabinet saw I will be getting. Thanks for all the replies.

View Ocelot's profile


2375 posts in 3247 days

#12 posted 03-13-2019 04:53 PM

It looks like you have a solution.

I have the same saw. I was long tempted by that Incra, but actually, the fence on my Rigid saw was working just fine. I was mainly tempted by the precise placement possible with the Incra. I ended up putting on a DRO instead, which gives me the precision at much lower cost. It’s been a long time since I fiddled with it, but I think I have a few shims between the back rail and the saw top, but squareness has not be notably a problem with mine.

I don’t mind the open extensions. On the left side, it allows me to clamp shop-built featherboards wherever I like. I have at times put loose pieces of 1/4” MDF into the recesses to keep small parts from falling through.

That Incra fence is a mighty fine thing though. I’m sure you’ll be happy with it.

View smitdog's profile


445 posts in 2715 days

#13 posted 03-13-2019 04:55 PM

The INCRA is a killer system. Only downside that has kept me from getting one is how far the positioner sticks out from the side of the saw when you are set for a wide cut. (Well, that and the cost, lol!) If I had more room around my saw it wouldn’t be an issue. I’ve actually looked into using a threaded rod and a matching nut on the cam of a bies style fence in order to get the incremental positioning – I saw a video online of a young man that designed something like that and it didn’t look too hard to accomplish. Hope you like your new fence!

-- Jarrett - Mount Vernon, Ohio

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics