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Anyone have a good way to unscrew this dye issue?

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Forum topic by bc4393 posted 08-28-2018 03:19 AM 820 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bc4393

76 posts in 1536 days


08-28-2018 03:19 AM

I tried a method to add dye to dewaxed shallac and it got way too much into the grain of this maple box where it looked like garbage. I’m thinking perhaps I didn’t sand progressively through the grits enough and left too much open grain for the dye to adhere too. I spent about 4 hours resanding the outside of the box to get it all out but I did the inside of the box with the same stuff. Needless to saw the inside was less finished than the outside was when I did it. Now I need to get in there and sand it with 120 enough to get down to the dye and sand it out. Of course it’s curly maple so its hard too… I got a lot of it out just cramming a block in there and going to town but in and around the corners it a PIA.

The only way I could come up with that might be easi(er) then wearing my fingers to the bone with a million small pieces of sandpaper attached to a small flexible scale is possibly an oscillating multitool with the sanding head to get in close to the corners and finish it up by hand. Anyone have any experience or advice? Pissed me off because I could probably build another box from scratch in the time it took me to undo this mess but I know this is how you learn. :/


10 replies so far

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waho6o9

8652 posts in 2970 days


#1 posted 08-28-2018 03:22 AM

Practice on scrap first.

” Pissed me off because I could probably build another box from scratch in the time it took me to undo this mess”

Build another box and welcome to the learning curve.

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Rayne

1209 posts in 1933 days


#2 posted 08-28-2018 03:25 AM

Cut a square or rectangle block of wood that will be comfortable to you, glue a piece of sandpaper to it (I use spray adhesive), cut it flush to the block and then go to town sanding the corners without destroying your fingers.

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WoodenDreams

605 posts in 304 days


#3 posted 08-28-2018 05:19 AM

I’ve have used oscilating detail sanders before for jobs like this. I have 4 of them, they come in handy for the corners. You’ll leave a black foam mark from the sander where it hit into the box from sanding, attacking the area, then sand blending the appearance back, The black mark from the foam pad on the detail sander sands off easily afterwards. or use painters tape to eliminate the chance of the black marks.

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LittleShaver

540 posts in 1013 days


#4 posted 08-28-2018 12:20 PM

Card scraper.
Have you tried wiping with DNA? Shellac is easy to dissolve with DNA.

-- Sawdust Maker

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bondogaposis

5414 posts in 2745 days


#5 posted 08-28-2018 01:02 PM

Take a piece PSA sandpaper and stick to the end of a putty knife. It makes sanding corners much easier.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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WoodenDreams

605 posts in 304 days


#6 posted 08-28-2018 02:20 PM

Have you considered putting in a 1/4” thick Aromatic Cedar Lining.It’s available at most of the hardware & lumber stores.

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jmos

913 posts in 2763 days


#7 posted 08-28-2018 02:39 PM

It’s not a mistake, it’s a design change; you could just go with it and stain the whole thing uniformly darker. It should be sealed now, due to the shellac. A glaze coat of a darker color should go a long way toward evening it all out.

-- John

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pintodeluxe

5934 posts in 3207 days


#8 posted 08-28-2018 02:59 PM

First of all you tried one of the hardest finishing techniques out there, so give yourself a break. Adding a dye or stain to a topcoat is called tinting. It is my absolute last resort in terms of type of finish. I’ve used it to re-tint kitchen cabinets, but I wouldn’t use it for a new (bare wood) project. For me, tinting is a job that is only applied with a sprayer, and never by brush or rag.

Separating the coloring phase from the topcoat phase will make both easier, and lead to a professional looking result. That said, you have to be very careful applying dyes. I’ve found a terrycloth-wrapped sponge works best. You can find them at woodworking stores and hardware stores sold as staining sponges. Oil based stains are much more forgiving.

Good luck with it.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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clin

1035 posts in 1389 days


#9 posted 08-28-2018 08:35 PM

A sander a like for getting into corners like that is a Black and Decker Mouse. There are several versions. This is the one I have. Works well.

-- Clin

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chrisstef

17916 posts in 3400 days


#10 posted 08-28-2018 08:38 PM

A chisel plane might get you there as well. Likely with a back bevel on it to deal with the funky grain of curly maple.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

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